Features of planting apple trees in autumn

Apple trees are planted in autumn and spring. Both seasons are quite suitable for planting trees and in favor of each you can collect an impressive stack of undeniable advantages. But to choose when to plan the landing, you need to take into account the specific circumstances. Climatic features of the region, for example, and not only them. And all this is worth understanding.

Autumn is the time for planting. In summer, this is more difficult, the heat can aggravate everything. The rains, which are frequent in the fall, even help - this way the seedlings take root better. The moisture content of the soil will be optimal for the trees to root properly. And if the roots develop well, they will better absorb water and minerals, which will speed up the spring growing season. The main thing is to be in time with the autumn planting a month before the onset of frost.

Much depends on the climate in the region, because the cold period in the Moscow region and in Siberia, for example, comes at different times. In the middle lane, it is better to plan a landing at the end of September and the first half of October. In the Urals, in the Leningrad region, in Siberia, it is worth making time before the end of September. Well, for those who live in the south, there is no need to rush - until the end of October, the dates are considered favorable. But the months can also be different: sometime abnormal warmth and dry month, sometime early cold. Therefore, you need to focus on temperature indicators.

This is one of the key steps if the landing will be outdoors. If the place is uncomfortable, even the most powerful seedling will not begin to grow as it could in the most suitable conditions for itself. Rules for choosing a place on the site:

• the territory should be illuminated by the sun literally from all sides, an open area without shading is optimal;
• the place should be protected from cold winds, as well as from drafts - the barrier is especially important that will be on the north side;
• the place should be distanced from other trees and buildings, especially with regard to the spreading side;
• in the shade and partial shade, the apple tree is not planted, just as they do not do it in areas with clay soil, waterlogged, in the lowlands.

But if the soil on the site is represented by light loam, this is the best option for an apple tree. Sandy loam soil and light black soil are also suitable. In terms of acidity, the soil should be neutral, the earth itself should be fertile, loose, light, with good air and moisture transmission. On clay soils, of course, it is practically impossible to grow a strong apple tree. And too light sandy ones will not cope with such a task.

A very important point regarding the choice of location is the level of occurrence of groundwater. If they are at a depth of 2.5 m, no additional measures need to be taken. If the waters are at a shallower depth, the highest place is chosen. And you can create it yourself: to help fill the soil, which will include sod and upper soil layers. Yes, the method is risky, because the roots can dry out and also increase sensitivity to frost. But then you will also have to install an irrigation system.

There is also such an option: the seedlings are placed at ground level, in two places they are fixed to the pegs. After the trees are "set" and secured with wire, their roots are covered with soil so that a 30-centimeter mound is formed.

It's worth starting with the fact that the pit is being prepared 2 or even 3 months before planting the tree. The land must be dug up and fertilized. The planting hole is to be filled with nutrient soil. It is thanks to the fertile high-quality dressing that there is a high probability of a successful start of the seedling.

What kind of mixture it could be:

• a bucket of compost (humus will work too);
• top fertile soil layer;
• fertilizers in the form of 100 g of superphosphate;
• 70 g of potassium sulfate.

This is a classic, almost win-win option. But if you have to deal, for example, with deoxidized soil, it is also worth adding dolomite flour there. If the soil is very acidic - a pound of flour, if it is moderately acidic or slightly acidic - approximately 400 g. The hole must be filled up so that the deepening corresponds to the size of the root system of the seedling... If it is a tree with a closed root system, the pit will be the size of the container. Everything that was brought into the pit must be thoroughly mixed in it. Then the soil needs to be watered normally so that the soil settles in a natural way.

If the hole is too deep, air will not flow to the root system so that it can breathe. It just won't go that deep. It is possible that in this situation, the roots will even begin to rot. If, on the other hand, the depth of the pit is insufficient, the roots will be exposed. And the very first frost can destroy them.

Algorithm for forming a hole for an apple tree.

• Remove the sod very delicately, then remove the top soil layer (that is, the most fertile). They must be folded separately.
• Next, the next 25-30 centimeters of the earth are removed.
• Everything is dug up, neatly leveled.
• The depth of the pit will be about 50 cm or a little more, and the width will be a maximum of a meter. The most "running" pit size for an apple tree is 60x60 cm.
• At the bottom, grass down, is placed turf. This move must not be missed for sure, because the grass, together with microorganisms, decays and turns into humus. Which is valuable in itself.
• You need to prepare fertilizer in advance. It can be either as in the description above, or something like this - leaf compost, wood ash, stale cow dung. You can also fertilize with horse manure, but chicken droppings are completely unsuitable. All these components are sent to the pit and thoroughly mixed there. The soil should be loose and moist.
• A mark is put, because it is not enough to prepare the pit, then you need to find a seat.

By the way, you still need to buy it and make the right choice. It is better to do this in a special nursery, because buying a tree on the market from an unfamiliar seller is a risky business. It is good if it is a tree no more than two years old. The combination of climate and varieties must be considered. On the roots there should be no visible damage, fungal plaque, moldiness. Roots of different lengths on the same seedling are quite normal. If the roots seem overly long, they can be trimmed.

The rules are simple, and if you're going to plant a tree with an open root system, you don't have to reinvent the wheel. Planting an apple tree step by step.

• The pit is covered with earth, leaving a small depression, the size of a root collar.
• A wooden peg is driven in next to the tree, it will be a support.
• The seedling is placed in the hole so that its root collar rises 4 cm above the soil level.
• The roots are straightened as delicately as possible in different directions.
• They should be sprinkled with loose soil, which is periodically shaken off. This is done to avoid voids.
• The earth will have to be tamped by hand.
• Along the perimeter of the fossa, holes are formed, 2-3 is enough.10 liters of water are poured into them (in total).
• The seedling is tied vertically to the support.
• The soil near the tree must be leveled, and then mulched. It happens in the fall, which means you can use the foliage.

Such specimens of young apple trees are sold in special containers. Let's consider how to properly plant a tree with a closed root.

• The pit will be about the same in size, 1 meter wide, 50-60 cm deep.
• The lower soil layer must be discarded, and a soil mixture must be formed from the upper soil... This means adding fertilizer and ash to the ground. The soil mixture is sent to the pit. A depression is formed in the pit; its diameter will be commensurate with the diameter of the container.
• The soil in the container must be watered. Then the container is turned upside down, from there a tree with roots and an earthen lump is removed.
• The tree, right with a lump of earth, is placed in the recess made... The soil level in the tank and the pit must be aligned. Is that a couple of centimeters earthen lump can rise.
• A garter stake is installed, a tree is tied... All voids in the pit are covered with earth.
• The soil needs to be compacted a little, after which you can water the seedling.

Regular watering, as well as pruning the branches, is especially important during the first time after planting. Pruning is carried out to speed up the fruiting process. But she, pruning, will still not pass before spring. And it will take place in the second year after landing. You need to catch the moment until the buds begin to swell on the branches. At this time, the crown is cut, dried branches are removed.

Other features of caring for a young apple tree:

• the soil in the near-trunk circles should be constantly loose, and this will prevent weeds from growing dangerous for a young tree;
• in the second year, flowers may form on the tree - you will have to get rid of them, since these are barren flowers;
• if autumn is dry, watering should be mandatory, but not too frequent (once a week), conventionally for a tree - a bucket of water;
• a week before the predicted frost, you need to whitewash the trunks - an aqueous mixture of copper sulfate and ordinary chalk is suitable;
• when frosts come to the region, the trunk should be wrapped in burlap (this is only relevant for cold regions).

Planting errors most often lead to the fact that the tree does not develop. Or he does it slowly, with problems. This happens if it was decided to fertilize the soil only at the time of planting, and not in advance. But even in the summer, the soil at the place of the proposed planting of the apple tree must be fed. The fact is that fertilizer will not do its job instantly, it will take a month or two to change the composition of the soil.

Other expert advice:

• the use of diseased planting material is the number 1 reason why the tree does not take root, and this happens more often if it is bought on the market, and not in the nursery;
• improper mulching of seedlings is also a common mistake, foliage and humus are laid very close to the trunk, which causes the bark to melt, and subsequently fungal diseases and bacterial infections occur;
• if a variety with weak immunity, the risk of non-survival is higher, it is imperative to read the characteristics of the apple variety;
• the most common tree disease is scab, it appears due to the weak immunity of the tree and insufficient preventive treatments;
• for better rooting of the tree, before planting, you can cut off the ground part too, shorten it by about 5 cm;
• the sapling is tied to the support without the use of traumatic materials (wire or synthetics), only a soft rope;
• all nitrogen-containing fertilizing should be in the spring (there is no point in fertilizing them in the fall, it is even dangerous);
• water for irrigation must be defended for at least half an hour;
• a shovel, before digging a hole, must be disinfected.