Pruning grapes in the first year of planting

Pruning grapes in the first year of planting and in subsequent years is a must. Otherwise, you will not see the harvest. Grapes are a crop that bears fruit only on green young shoots that have grown from buds located on last year's young branches.

Before you start pruning, you need to have a good understanding of the structure and life cycle of the bush. Fruit shoots grow in summer, they are plastic, green, flower stalks appear on them. By the fall, these shoots become lignified, it is they who are later called fruit vines. The thickness of the fruit vine should be about 1 cm. Upon reaching the age of 2 years, the vine will become a branch (or sleeve) - this is a perennial part of the bush. It has dormant buds that will wake up if the branch is cut. Grape bushes lay buds in the fall. Autumn pruning sets the tone for the entire future harvest. The number of fruit shoots should not exceed 10-20, otherwise the vines will be too thin, with very weak fruiting shoots at the top. The harvest from such a plant will only bring disappointment.

In addition, shoots that have not ripened by autumn will certainly freeze out, even if the winter is very mild. Therefore, it is extremely important to get exactly mature shoots, even if there are few of them. Pruning grapes in the first year after planting can be done in different ways, depending on the desired shape. In cool regions for grapes, the best shape is a fan without a trunk with 4 sleeves. This design makes it easy to cover plants for the winter. Seedling care at 1 year aims to form 2 branches. This is the basis for future crop carrier branches.

A young plant must be watered well at least 2 times in the first month after planting.... Watering is plentiful, 4 buckets of water per bush. The last watering is performed at the beginning of August. After this period, it is necessary to refrain from watering, otherwise the plant will not have time to bring the shoots to a mature state, this process will stretch. In subsequent years, the most abundant watering will also occur in July, and they will be similarly reduced by August, otherwise the berries will crack. They are fed twice in the first year, combining fertilization with irrigation. The first feeding is performed when the green shoots reach a length of 10 cm, a complex with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is introduced.

One-year-old grapes have only two buds. If instead of two shoots 5-6 appear, the extra ones must be broken off, otherwise all the shoots will be weak, too short, unproductive. Shoots break off when they reach a length of 2-5 cm. All stepsons are also removed. Shoots are minted in September. Chasing resembles pinching, at least has the same purpose - to delay the growth of the shoot... However, it involves shortening not the tip, but the entire length of the branch to the first full leaves.

If the tip of the grape shoot began to unfold, it is ready to grow, when this expenditure of energy is not needed, the branch is cut off. In the first year in summer, minting is not necessary; it is performed only in September. In subsequent years, the summer (if necessary) minting and the obligatory autumn minting are carried out. Chasing accelerates the ripening of the shoots. At the end of October of the first year, shortly before the shelter for the winter, the grown strong shoots must be cut off, leaving 3 buds on each. After that, covers made from unnecessary plastic bottles are put on the plant.Sprinkle with earth or mulch so that it is flush with the top of the bottles, pour a mound of 25-30 cm on top. The next year, you need to make sure that the work in the first year was done well.

The shoots of the first order will have a thickness of 7-8 mm, their color will be bright, and crackling will be heard when bent. If the grapes are frozen, the shoots will be cold to the touch and lacking in firmness. The challenge for the second year is to grow 4 sleeves. They are fixed on trellises. And in the 3rd year, 2 vines are released from the top of each sleeve, and all the shoots that appear below are removed. In total, the plant will have 8 shoots.

To prune the branch correctly, you need to make sure that the space between the nodes is chosen, and the top remaining bud is facing up.... In subsequent years, pruning is done in the fall, after the plant has shed its leaves. They also regulate plant growth throughout the year. Even before the appearance of inflorescences, remove all unnecessary shoots that are not provided for by the scheme, overgrown, on the sleeves, shoulders, useless and poorly located (for example, it will be difficult to tie the shoot to the trellis). During the flowering period, it is already easy to distinguish between fruit and sterile shoots. Unproductive ones are removed, only not once, but gradually, so as not to deprive the plant of a large green mass at once.

Also unnecessary are "doubles" - these are shoots that emerged from the eye, which contains three buds at once, the central one and two smaller lateral ones. From such eyes, 1 branch can germinate, or two or three at once. They are usually not very convenient, they deplete the bush, spoil the appearance of the formed plant, shade more productive shoots. If there are bunches on them, they leave the strongest and most convenient for a garter, the rest are removed. Before the berries ripen, it is useful to pinch the shoots over 5-7 leaves above the brush. This technique will allow you to redistribute food in favor of the berries and at the same time will not be a load on the bush, which is possible if you break off a branch right above the bunch.

During the ripening period of the bunches, the usual control measures are performed: interfering branches, stepchildren are removed. The bunches are normalized. Too dense clusters can be susceptible to diseases, due to the accumulation of moisture between them, the berries become smaller. For more beautiful, sweet and large berries, the bunches are thinned from mid-July. Remove those parts of the bunch on which the berries are small, deformed. And before harvesting, in 2-3 weeks, clarification is carried out. Remove leaves that obscure the bunches. At the same time, it is taken into account that the activity of grape leaves is short-lived. The unfolded sheet works no more than 50 days after unfolding. Then it ages and becomes practically ballast, so you can safely remove the old leaves around the bunches. However, the lower leaves, even if their productivity has already decreased, is not the case. They are useful - they protect clusters from sunburn, rain, hail.

For pruning, choose the right tool: flat bypass pruners for green branches, pruning shears with anvils or persistent pruners for dry vines. A suitable pruner damages the branch only at the cut points, does not chew or tear the fibers. High carbon steel tools are sharper, but less durable than stainless steel. Loppers are used for hard-to-reach branches. It is convenient to use scissors with long blades and blunt points to normalize the bunches. Of course, the entire tool must be well sharpened and perfectly clean. A ratchet pruner will help reduce the strain on the gardener. This is the best option if you need to cut a lot of branches with minimal effort, although pruning shears are quite expensive.... For pruning, choose a sunny, dry day. Sometimes the vine grows unevenly, especially if the vines are attached to the trellis at an angle.Growth is leveled by adjusting the load on the branches (more or less bunches are left), or by pinching. More often than other varieties, pinch varieties with a loose bunch.

Stepsons can be broken off by hand, but it is also better to use a pruner - this is more reliable. Wintering buds are located next to the stepsons and manual removal of the stepsons can damage them. The stepsons pinch over 2-3 sheets. For the best yields, experienced growers pull the fruit shoots with wire. The entire shoot above the ring will receive enhanced nutrition, which will allow you to get more beautiful bunches 2 weeks earlier. But the reception is very complicated and will only be required from 4-5 years of plant life. Young plants need protection from diseases the same as adults. At the slightest signs of disease, the leaves are treated with Horus, Skor or Topaz. Be sure to strictly follow the instructions, all these drugs are quite strong. Folk remedies for grapes are practically useless, although as long as the plant is young and small, they may make sense. However, it's best not to risk it.