Bath restoration methods

Any bathtub, with constant use, deteriorates over time. Chips and cracks, yellow spots and even rust appear. In addition, every use of a cleaning agent leads to a thinning of the coating. It is completely impossible to buy new plumbing every time, so you should turn to the restoration, which can be carried out on your own without resorting to the help of specialists.

There are various types of bathtub restoration, but there are only three main ones. The first is the application of a mixture of enamel and hardener, also called two-component enamel. The surface of the bath is covered with a solution as well as with ordinary paint. The second way is to pour acrylic into the bathtub. First, it is necessary to grind the surface and degrease it thoroughly. After pouring acrylic, you need to wait two days, and only then start using the plumbing. Finally, the bathtub can also be refurbished by installing an acrylic liner. This "second bath" must be absolutely identical to the first and fixed inside with glue or foam.

It is necessary to choose a specific method based on the state of the bath bowl, from what materials it is made, as well as from financial capabilities. If we talk about independent work, then most often they choose enamel painting or bulk acrylic. It is unprofitable to install a "bath in a bath" on your own, since the cost of the insert itself is about 80% of this very complicated procedure with a guarantee.

In order for the coating to serve the owners for many years, you need to carefully select the composition for the restoration, having previously studied their properties and basic characteristics. In the first case, when it is planned to use enamel consisting of two components, the coating can, in principle, be applied using a roller, brush or aerosol. But it should be borne in mind that aerosol enamel is more used to eliminate minimal defects, and on a large surface it creates an uneven color. This is why the brush is most often chosen. Usually sold as a kit with enamel and hardener, and sometimes pre-cleaners.

The color of the enamel will depend on the illumination of the room, therefore it is advised to choose it in the room where the bathroom is located. In addition, the hardener (dark red, dark yellow and dark brown) can change the final shade of the coating. Thanks to these two details, the best option would be to purchase a set with a set of tinting pastes. The "Fantasy" and "Svetlana" sets from the Russian manufacturer "Random House" are considered a good option. They differ in the composition of the sets: both have a two-component enamel with a hardener and preparations for preparatory work. However, "Svetlana" also includes tinting pastes that will allow you to give the enamel any shade.

Many people recommend choosing a composition that is a joint "brainchild" of Russia and Finland and is called "Reaflex-50" from Tikkurila. It is considered one of the highest quality, although expensive, and can even be used for a concrete pool. This two-part enamel is fairly easy to work with, but the bathtub will take a week to dry.The quality of the coating will depend on adherence to the instructions and proportions when mixing the components. "Reaflex" also has its drawbacks, for example, due to the fact that the solution is quite liquid, you will have to apply 4 layers, otherwise it will not overlap the original coating. It will take a whole week to work. There are other enamels - organosilicon ones, on which it is written “for baths”.

Some people choose Epoxin-51 or Epoxin-51C enamel, which are produced in Russia based on ingredients made in Germany. Both are thick and two-component, applied with a brush. As the second component, a colorless transparent amine-type hardener is used, which protects the finished coating from yellowing. These enamels dry very quickly - two days are enough, and can serve up to 9 years without the appearance of yellow spots. Unfortunately, excessive density makes the work progress difficult. "Epoxin-51C" compares favorably with enamel "Epoxin-51" in that the curing time is twice shorter.

Aerosol enamel KU-130 from Kudo in cans is created on the basis of modified artificial resins and is used for the restoration of not only enameled, but also ceramic sanitary ware. The enamel is completely ready for use, you just need to shake the balloon before applying. According to the manufacturer, the ambient temperature should be above 10 degrees. The composition is liquid, so it is not able to cope with surface defects. The enamel is applied in 2-3 layers and dries up in a day. It is resistant to high temperatures and is only sold in white. One spray can is enough to process two square meters of surface in one layer.

Aerosols are chosen in situations where the original bath enamel loses its original whiteness and is covered with rust spots or scratches. Spray paint is able to restore the resistance of the coating to hard water, make it smoother, and restore the original shining color. It makes sense to use aerosols also in cases where the bath enamel, due to the frequent use of aggressive cleaning agents, becomes too porous and begins to quickly absorb dirt and rust.

If we talk about the second method of restoration, it is important to remember that in no case should ordinary acrylic sold in hardware stores be used, since it can ruin the bathtub and cause severe harm to health. That is why the choice is usually made between liquid bulk acrylic, often called plastol, and glass. Stril is cheaper and adheres well to the surface, but it sets quickly and therefore causes difficulties for beginners. Plastol is easier to work with and does not have a nasty smell.

"Stakril Ecolor" is considered to be the successor of the line of "Epoxin-51" products, and therefore the preparatory work before applying it is completely similar. It's funny that Stackler tinting pastes are also taken from the Epoxin set. The composition is very sensitive to moisture and the quality of the restored surface. Even minor defects in the substrate must be carefully filled.

EkoVanna liquid bulk acrylic is available in several varieties: antimicrobial, quick-drying and bactericidal. The coating is environmentally friendly, has a low odor and is absolutely non-toxic. The service life is expected from 5 to 6 years. Despite all the advantages of acrylic, it is worth remembering that it is not recommended to use paint based on it, even water-based paint on the walls and ceiling of the bathroom. Although the composition is completely environmentally friendly for health, it is easy to apply and holds firmly, it is better to leave it for other rooms.

In general, an ultra-soft abrasive car polish can be an alternative to a complete bathroom restoration. But its use is possible only in the case of minor defects. The enamel should not have stubborn dark spots, deep scratches and cracks.Purchase a "thin" polishing paste, for example, DoctorWax, and a harder, but delicate working glass polish. The first will go to the initial stage, and the second - to the finish. A thin polish is rubbed in a circular motion into the enamel using white rags. Each area of ​​enamel should be polished with maximum intensity.

The solution is washed off with liquid soap and a sponge and the process is repeated until the entire bottle is empty. If the work is done with high quality, then by this time the bath will no longer be matte and rough. In the second stage, the work is carried out using a glass polish. A thin layer is applied over the entire surface and dries. Then it is brushed off with a rubbing circular motion.

All three existing methods of sanitary ware restoration require the same preliminary work. In general, to prepare the bath, you will have to remove layers of old enamel and ensure maximum adhesion of the cast iron or steel surface to the planned coating. To do it yourself at home, you will have to purchase some materials, for example, sandpaper, cleaning powder, masking tape, cloth and others. If you only need to repair a small chip, scratch or crack inside the bathtub, then there is no need to carry out the full restoration process. Previously, in order to solve this problem yourself, it was recommended to mix glue with tooth powder or epoxy with porcelain dust, and then apply this solution to the defect. Today, such measures are considered ineffective, so problems with chips are solved differently.

To restore the steel section, first a rust converter must be applied to the defect. and, after waiting for the recommended time, rinse with water. Then the chip is cleaned with powder or dishwashing detergent, rinsed and wiped dry. At the next stage, the surface is degreased with acetone or another solvent, again dried and heated with a hairdryer. After the car putty, it is necessary to cover the chip, wait for it to dry and sand it with sandpaper. At the final stage, the damaged area is covered with acrylic or automotive enamel. Well suited putty from Novol, universal or with fiberglass. It is gray in color and therefore invisible from under the coating. It hardens in 10-15 minutes, after which it can be sanded to a smooth surface.

The entire surface of the bath must be cleaned using a brush and an abrasive, that is, powder. Then coarse-grained sandpaper is taken and the plumbing is cleaned until the risks from the abrasive appear, that is, the metal does not appear. It is worth noting that there is no need to rinse off the cleaning agent when sanding. And you can also use an angle grinder, on which a special nozzle is installed. This will speed up and simplify all the work. Sometimes old enamel is removed by sandblasting or with hydrochloric acid diluted with water. The next step is to rinse off the remaining crumbs and remove the soap suds.

The bath is poured with oxalic acid, then the acid is neutralized with soda. Hot water is drawn up to the sides, after which you have to wait 10 minutes. After that, the water is discharged through the drain, and the bath is wiped dry. To make the plumbing dry faster, it is recommended to use a construction hairdryer. Preparing for further polishing, you must carefully check the product for chips, cracks and other defects. If a decision is made to polish the deformed bathtub, it will lose its attractive appearance.

At the next stage, a car putty is applied to the bathtub, which, when dry, is sanded with sandpaper. The paper should be fine. Residual dust is removed with a vacuum cleaner or a soft brush, and the surface is degreased with a solvent.Next, you need to wipe it with napkins or a soft, lint-free cloth. The next step is to independently dismantle the shower hose. Spout and taps should be wrapped in plastic or similar to prevent water droplets from spoiling the work. And also it is necessary to remove the drain grate, and replace the siphon under the bathroom with dishes (for example, a basin) so that drops of acrylic or enamel get there.

To make the right restoration product, you just need to follow the instructions. Usually, all proportions and sequences of actions are indicated in it. It is necessary to stir the composition well and, if necessary, divide into several parts.

After all the above procedures, you will have to glue it with masking tape and cover with old newspapers and polyethylene everything that is near the bathtub to be restored: a washing machine, shelves, a sink or a cabinet. Do not forget about the floor, and put bags on the mixer and shower.

When restoring with enamel or bulk acrylic, you can process not only the oldest bathtub, but also a metal shower tray, washbasin and kitchen sink - items from other rooms. And also it is possible to put in order a separate area, and not the entire surface. In general, it is recommended to use different restoration methods for different purposes. All work, including preparation, will take at least 3-4 hours, and the maximum - a day. The first step in a bathtub restoration is always the preparation and removal of old layers. The next steps differ depending on the selected method.

Those who decide to paint the bathroom with enamel should remember that this method is short-lived, but cheap. With the help of enamel it is possible to restore both cast iron and iron bathtubs. Unfortunately, most often the renewed plumbing will serve for another 1-2 years, and then it will have to be restored again. In general, a bathtub, restored with the help of enamel, is able to live without repair work for another one to five years, depending on the quality of the work done. The solution has a very pungent chemical odor that is harmful to health, therefore, all work must be carried out, having previously protected the mouth and nose with a respirator, and hands with gloves. It is very important to carry out all actions exclusively in a well-ventilated area.

It is extremely important to use enamel suitable for baths - only this type is safe for humans. The rest, in contact with hot water, begin to secrete toxic enzymes. The cost of enameling ranges from 2.5 thousand rubles with the cheapest paints to 3.9 thousand rubles with high-quality foreign analogues. The enamel and hardener are poured into a convenient container and mixed until smooth using a mixer. The resulting solution is applied with a wide brush, painting is carried out first with horizontal and then with vertical strokes. The layer should be thin, but even and without drops, it is recommended to smear the composition so that it fills all the pores. It is more logical to start from the edges of the bowl, and then move to its bottom.

After painting for the first time and a pause of 10-15 minutes, without waiting for it to dry (otherwise the enamel will be covered with dust), the application of the second layer begins. The smudges are gently "stretched" with the same brush. Then you need to leave the bowl for 15 minutes and paint the bottom of the plumbing one more time. It is convenient to apply the finishing layer with a roller or with a compressor, which will help to evenly distribute the composition along the walls.

Drying of the bath is carried out for five days, but even a week is better. During this period, water must not be turned on and dust and dirt must not be allowed to enter the treated surface, and the temperature must be maintained at 23 degrees. It is worth remembering that this method of restoring plumbing is inappropriate for bathtubs with a large number of small defects (chips, cracks, scratches), since they can be visible even after enamel coating.In general, the owners of enameled bathtubs need to be very careful: cracks spread rapidly, the enamel peels off, water accumulates under it, a nasty smell and even mold appears.

Restoration with liquid acrylic is much more convenient than choosing enamel painting. They can put both cast-iron and iron baths in order. The mixture does not have a pungent odor, is easy to apply and has much better strength characteristics than paint. The acrylic fill spreads by itself and forms a monolithic film on the surface of the bathtub, masking all defects and repelling dust and dirt. In this case, the solution dries just the time it takes for comfortable work, and does not leave streaks, bubbles or smudges. The cost of restoration with bulk acrylic will be from 3,500 to 4,100 rubles.

First of all, acrylic is kneaded with a mixer at low speed or with a wooden stick in a convenient container., then poured into a small glass and poured over the top of the tub. With a rubber spatula, it is pushed under the edges of the tile. As soon as the solution reaches the middle of the wall, it is necessary to start moving the glass around the perimeter, periodically adding the mixture from the common dishes. The layer should be about 4–6 millimeters thick, so the solution should not be poured out too much or too quickly. Then the process is repeated, but you need to pour from the middle of the walls, and not from the upper edge. If bubbles form, then a plastic spatula or brush is used to eliminate them.

There is no need to save the mixture, since the excess will still go down the drain. It will take about one and a half to two days to harden. As soon as the surface hardens, you can remove all protective coatings, replace the siphon and start using the plumbing. When it is necessary to repair a material of a certain color, you can mix acrylic with tinting paste, if this is allowed by the manufacturers. However, its amount cannot exceed 3% of the total.

Installation of an acrylic insert or "bath in bath" is suitable for those who want to quickly and without the lack of hygienic procedures to do all the work. You can install such a coating in just three hours with your own hands and start using the plumbing the very next day. It is worth clarifying that the acrylic liner not only has high strength, but also reduces the thermal conductivity of the bath, which allows it to be warm for a sufficient time. It is important not only to choose the right "second bath", but also to distribute the adhesive composition - two-component polyurethane foam and silicone sealant. The cost of installing an acrylic liner from third-party companies will be from 4000 to 4700 rubles without additional work.

The liner is a construction made of acrylic, plastic or silicone that mimics the shape of the bowl. Having completed preliminary measurements of the bath, you can buy it in the store, and then glue it yourself at home. Today, it is the acrylic liner that is the most popular, as it looks much better than silicone and plastic, and will function for up to 30 years. Unfortunately, it is strictly forbidden to install it in bending iron baths and baths made of light cast iron.

The only problem with the acrylic liner is its installation, which is considered very difficult. It needs to be placed so that it covers the edges of the bath, but if the structure is already mounted close to the wall, then you will have to break the tile and remove the side. Also, if improperly installed, water can collect between the liner and the bottom, leading to dampness, mold and odor. The liners are made for standard baths with a length of 1.5 meters and 1.7 meters, so it will be very difficult for owners of unusual designs to find an alternative for themselves.

Before starting the above bath preparation process, it will be necessary to dismantle the trim elements. Then, having prepared the product, it is worth paying attention to the insert - to cut the technological edge and, inserting it into the bath, make a marking for the technological holes, draw drain and overflow circles. Holes are drilled along the markings and sealant with foam can be applied. The sealant is distributed around the drain and overflow holes, and the foam is distributed in stripes on the bottom, sides and walls. On the bottom - 4–5 pieces along and with a step of 5–7 cm transverse stripes. On the side surfaces, approaching the side, there are three stripes in the corners, and on the sidewalls, a cage is made with a step of 5–7 cm. Two strips are placed on the side. It is impossible to neglect the recommendation to introduce a special composition into the foam, which does not allow it to swell too much.

The insert is quickly inserted into the bath, pressed and leveled - everything should take no more than 5 minutes, otherwise the composition will harden ahead of time and will not "grab" the material. The sides are pressed down with your hands, then you should stand with bare feet in the place where the drain is located, and go to the opposite edge - so the insert will be in the right place. After that, it is again recommended to repeat the pressure with your hands. Excess foam and sealant are removed and the siphon can be reinstalled. And also an important step - to fill the bath with water for a day so that the foam cannot displace the liner during solidification. The water level should be 1–2 centimeters below the drain hole. It can be drained the next day.

It is important to remember that, even if the bath bowl is properly restored, it will no longer have its original performance characteristics. In addition, a softer care and, possibly, a change of detergent chemicals will be required. If the bath was enameled or the coating was restored with liquid acrylic, then after some time you will notice that the original color will begin to shine through the coating. It is likely that it will noticeably change the shade of the plumbing. The new coating will be more susceptible to damage from, for example, dropped objects or paint. The cigarette will also start to leave ugly stains on the surface. However, judging by the reviews, if you carry out all the work with high quality with good materials, then the bath will serve without problems for a couple of years.

If we talk about baths "saved" with the help of enamel, then the care should be very careful, since the enamel 0.5 mm thick is extremely sensitive to mechanical stress, aggressive chemicals, and even the state of tap water. Do not wash plumbing fixtures with harsh, abrasive solutions or powders. Strong detergents should be used no more than once a month, the rest of the time, preference is given to gentle gels and liquids, washing powder, soda and soap diluted in water. Apply the product only with soft rags and foam sponges. It is important to avoid dropping heavy objects, such as shampoo, deodorant, or showerhead, into the bathtub. When deciding to take a bath with multi-colored salts or a "bomb", you should be aware that the enamel is capable of staining. The rest of the recommendations for plumbing with enamelled restorations are the same as for acrylic finishes.

For plumbing refurbished with liquid acrylic or acrylic liner, the following tips are given.

• for surface cleaning, liquid products such as Domestos, Sanox and Comet are used, or washing powders that do not contain particles that scratch the surface and dissolve easily;
• the detergent should remain on the surface for no more than 5 minutes;
• it is not recommended to wash the bathtub with strong chemicals and abrasive particles that are not intended for this, and it is strictly forbidden to pour chemical reagents, photoreagents and other hazardous solutions into it;
• the gel should be applied with soft sponges, and hard sponges and metal brushes should be abandoned forever;

• it is worth doing a general cleaning once every 3 to 5 days, but you will have to rinse it every time after taking a shower;
• if there is such a nuisance that the hair dye is in the renewed bath and leaves a stain, it is recommended to thickly apply fluoride toothpaste on it and leave it for 10-15 minutes;
• in the first seven days after the restoration procedure, it is forbidden to drastically change the temperature of the water and fill the bowl with either ice liquid or boiling water;
• it is not recommended to bathe fluffy pets without a special bedding, because the claws always leave scratches on the surface;
• damage over time will change color due to scale and rust, and it will be almost impossible to destroy;

• you should also be careful when moving the washing machine and other bulky items that, leaning against the bathtub, can damage it;
• if metal basins or buckets are placed in the bath, then the bottom must first be secured with a rag or rug;
• you should also be wary of long-term use of a mat with suction cups, which is placed on the bottom of the bowl for comfort, and constant "dripping" of water. Staining or boiling things in the bath should be avoided.

To remove rust, use special industrial products., and with the formation of limescale - vinegar or citric acid. The bath is filled to the brim with warm water, to which 1-2 cups of vinegar or 100 grams of citric acid are added, after which the solution is left for 3-4 hours. After finishing the procedure, you need to drain the water, rinse the bowl and wipe it dry. To keep the acrylic shine lasting, the bathtub should always be wiped down with a soft cloth after use.

Bathtub restoration with "PlastAll Bulk Acrylic", see the next video.