How to close the gap between the bathroom and the wall?

When the main repairs in the bathroom are completed: the tiles are glued, the bath is in place, then the question arises of how to close the unsightly gap between the wall and the bathroom. Sealing is very important as it prolongs the life of your sanitary ware and prevents moisture from entering the bathroom, mold and tile breakdown.

The gap between the wall and the bathroom occurs due to a discrepancy between the dimensions of the bath and the room, the unevenness of the walls or due to unrevealed corners. The size of the gap depends on the specific situation.

At the moment, quite a lot of options have been invented for solving this problem., we'll talk about them. How to close large gaps (more than 5 cm), small gaps, the best ways to resolve these situations, depending on the input conditions - we will consider all this later in the article.

There are especially popular methods for sealing the gap between the bathroom and the wall:

• using cement mortar;
• using polyurethane foam;
• seal with silicone sealant;
• plinth made of plastic or tiles;
• sticker of border tape or corner.

The decision to use each of the methods must be decided depending on the combination of many factors, such as:

• slot size;
• bath shape;
• wall material.

The use of finely porous foam in sealing the gap between the bathroom and the wall is a progressive and convenient method that can be used even with large gap sizes, since this foam tends to expand strongly in volume.

Sequentially sealing with polyurethane foam looks like this:

• cleaning surfaces from dirt and degreasing using specialized products;
• thorough drying of surfaces;
• preparation of a construction gun (if this implies your chosen foam);
• careful distribution of the foam, filling all the gaps (shake the can before use);
• quick cleaning of excess foam (after drying, this will be extremely problematic);
• liquid expansion and drying out (on average - up to 8 hours);
• further - we cut off the foam evenly and mask the joint using a convenient material - ceramic tiles or a plastic corner.

The curb tape is a white polyethylene tape produced in rolls. On one side of the tape there is a smooth surface, coated with antifungal agents and does not allow moisture to pass through, and on the other side, the tape is represented by an adhesive layer.

As a rule, the curb tape is not used as an independent means of sealing joints., but as an additional decorative coating after filling the gap with polyurethane foam or cement-sand mortar.

The tape is fastened in this way:

• the working surface is cleaned and thoroughly dried;
• for greater strengthening of the tape, it is often advised to coat the seam with adhesives (for example, liquid nails) or use additional silicone sealant;
• the border tape is evenly glued: so that one half lies on the wall, and the other half on the bath;
• for reliability, all joints are coated with sealant;
• it is also necessary to prevent moisture from entering the side during the day to dry.

Curb tape is a short-lived method of sealing joints, it is worth remembering this. It is easy to clean, but even with careful use, it is difficult to extend its service life: it peels off rather quickly and loses its attractive appearance.

When using a cement-sand mortar, you need to understand that this method is very economical, but it is not suitable for gaps more than 4 cm wide, since it simply will not hold with a larger gap.

If the gap is larger, special support mounts can be used, for example, a wooden lath, which can serve as a support for the mortar.

Sealing with cement mortar is carried out as follows:

• surface preparation: the wall must be treated with a primer - this is done to increase the adhesion of the solution to the wall material;
• preparation of the solution itself - this is done in accordance with the instructions on the package;
• impregnation of rags with a solution and laying it in the space between the bathroom and the wall;
• after the rags have dried - applying the solution, which should be carefully leveled with a spatula;
• waiting for hardening;
• painting or covering the gap covered with cement mortar with plastic or tile decor.

With the help of silicone sealants, it is possible to ensure high-quality sealing of the gap between the bathtub and the wall, but only with very small dimensions of the gap width (up to 5 mm).

Sanitary bathroom sealants are suitable for this job: they have sufficient elasticity, antibacterial and fungicidal (antifungal) additives, and are resistant to changes in temperature and humidity.

Silicones in a tube are usually white or transparent.

The sequence of actions in the case of using silicone sealant for the joint is as follows:

• degreasing and drying the surface;
• for the convenience of distributing silicone sealant, it is better to use a construction (plunger) gun;
• the spout of the tube of the balloon is cut off depending on the thickness of the seam;
• silicone is applied evenly along the entire length of the gap;
• wetting your finger in soapy water, you need to distribute the sealant in an even layer;
• it is recommended to apply several layers of silicone: the first layers should be pushed deeper into the seam for high-quality sealing;
• waiting for drying.

Thus, it can be seen that it is not difficult to eliminate unwanted gaps in the bathroom with silicone sealants. This work can be done with your own hands without the involvement of specialists.

We discussed all the main methods of sealing joints above, now let's talk about less popular or specific means for eliminating cracks.

• Skirting boards and borders. Plinths and borders made of polymer materials are quite common due to their low cost and aesthetic appeal. What you should know about this method is that the ready-made adhesive bases, often applied by the manufacturer to the skirting board, are not suitable for high-quality work. Therefore, when installing plastic skirting boards and borders, you should think about the additional purchase of waterproof quick-drying glue. Plastic skirting boards hide gaps up to 3 cm wide.

Procedure for the installation of plastic sealing elements:

• clearing the gap from dust and dirt, thorough drying;
• measuring the sides of the bathtub to properly trim the skirting board;
• at the joints of the plinth, it is necessary to trim at an angle of 45 degrees;
• we try on a trimmed border, and if everything matches, then we apply masking tape along the edges of the bathtub and wall (above the intended side) to protect it from glue;
• we apply glue to the gap, we act in accordance with the instructions on the package with the adhesive composition;
• install the plinth and press it carefully, fixing it for a few minutes;
• remove the masking tape;
• We seal the joint of the plinth with the wall and the bathroom with a silicone compound.

• Installation of a ceramic border. The most common material for wall and floor cladding in bathrooms is tile. That is why the use of ceramic borders will fit into the design of such a bathroom as organically as possible. A large selection of tile borders allows you to make the side an attractive element of the interior, and not just the need to hide the gap.

In the case of working with tiled borders, you should be especially careful due to the fact that the material is fragile. It is worth taking care and taking a couple of elements more than necessary, so that in case of unforeseen circumstances you can replace the damaged one.

The procedure will be as follows:

• clean the working surfaces of the bath and walls;
• seal the gap around the perimeter with polyurethane foam or cement-sand mortar;
• using special glue for tiles, lay ceramic elements, if necessary, trim the borders;
• wipe all seams with a suitable color or use silicone sealant.

Sometimes conditions are created that the bathtub is 7-8 centimeters smaller than the size of the room. Such cases require a special approach and a combination of sealing methods already known to us.

Most often, a cement mortar is used for a rough seal, with a lining to fix it. By itself, a concrete surface sealant is impractical and unaesthetic, as it can often cause allergic reactions and contributes to the accumulation of dust.

Let's consider several methods for solving this problem:

• the simplest and most economical way of finishing a concrete pavement is painting with acrylic or enamel paint;
• the use of plastic panels is also an economical solution;
• you can use the same material as on the walls, for example, tiles (this solution will harmoniously fit into the overall picture);

An interesting enough way to close up a large gap is to design not a curb, but a functional shelf. This method is good both in terms of functionality and aesthetic appeal.

In this case, a metal profile frame is mounted., from above it is necessarily revetted with waterproof materials (tile in this case will be the best choice).

There are several key points that determine the success of the final result of sealing joints in the bathroom.

The specifics of the nuances of the work performed depends on the selected material for sealing the seam, therefore, we will consider each method again, clarifying the installation recommendations.

• Working with silicone sealant. When working with silicone sealant, it is worth using masking tape to prevent excess composition from getting on the adjacent surfaces, since when the silicone dries, it is quite problematic to remove. At least 24 hours should elapse between the sealing of the bathroom and the first use.
• Work with polyurethane foam. As well as when working with silicone, it is worth sticking the adjacent surfaces with masking tape, avoiding getting foam on them. After carrying out the work, the excess foam is cut off with a knife. To increase the water resistance of the foam, it is applied in layers, which reduces its porosity.

• Works with a cement-sand mixture. This is the longest and most labor-consuming method of sealing. At the same time, it is quite durable if properly executed. When applying the solution, you need to be careful not to stain the nearby surfaces of the bath and walls; for this, a small spatula is used. Cement-sand mortar is the longest drying material of all we have considered. Decorative elements can be mounted only after the mortar has completely dried.
• The use of cement mortar or polyurethane foam is inappropriate in cases with a steel or acrylic bathtub, since the acrylic bathtub is too mobile, and the steel bathtub changes in size when the temperature changes. Therefore, these methods are best suited for cast iron baths.

Information on how to remove the gaps and how to carry out the installation hermetically and durable, we set out in this review. Following simple recommendations, you can easily find the appropriate method and you will be happy with the result for a long time.

For even more information on how to seal the gap between the wall and the bathroom, see the video below.