Bath enamel: restoration methods and stages of restoration

Any item ever wears out, and the bathroom bowl is no exception. After prolonged use, chips, scratches, cracks, rusty spots appear on it. Not everyone has the opportunity to pay for the replacement of a new bath, and sometimes people simply do not want to throw out the cast iron product due to the fact that it keeps the water temperature for a long time. To reduce the cost of enameling, you can carry out this procedure yourself.

The wear rate of the bath surface depends on many factors. The first is improper surface cleaning. This is the most common cause of rapid enamel wear. The use of steel wool or abrasive cleaning agents will immediately damage most of the surface.

Enamel is quickly damaged when using acids or other chemicals to clean drain pipes. Chlorine, bleach, vinegar and lemon juice also act on it. Many people use these products to try to remove stains. In fact, the enamel only wears out more. After the bath was rubbed with abrasive substances, scratches formed on it, into which then dirt particles gradually fall.

Many factors also affect bathroom enamel wear.

• Water quality. Sometimes the water contains an unacceptably high proportion of additional particles that will either stain or scratch the surface over time. Contaminants such as vegetable colloids and iron oxide will stain the surface. Even new bathtub surfaces are often stained. In areas where the water contains a lot of lime, sediment builds up around drains and taps. It is important to ensure that dripping taps are closed and no water remains in the bathroom.
• Dripping faucets. Regular dripping of water causes serious damage to the surface of the bathtub. The first sign of damage is staining of the enamel surface. This spot is usually green or slightly brown. Dripping faucets leave rust around the drain. Even if you replace the bath, but leave the dripping faucet, rust will reappear.
• Water temperature. Extremely hot water causes the metal to expand and contract. Sudden changes in temperature can cause cracks and other damage. It is recommended to periodically check the temperature of the hot water. The recommended temperature should not exceed 65 degrees.
• Correct installation. Poor bath installation can result in water collection. If water remains on the surface for a long time, it will damage the enamel. High levels of various particles in the water will only add to the problem. Another reason for the appearance of rust around the drain is that the water cannot drain because the drain is higher than the surface of the bathtub. Correct placement of acrylic, fiberglass and marble bathtubs is critical as curvature leads to cracking.

• Non-slip rugs. Many people leave rubber rugs in the bathroom for water to drain off. By cleaning them regularly, you can avoid mold and soap deposits.
• Soaking clothes. Dyes of clothes soaked in a bath can stain the surface of all types of baths. They are difficult to remove from the surfaces of acrylic bathtubs as the stains are soaked deeply. Strong detergents in washing powders can also damage enamel.
• Hair dyes. Hair dyes contain strong chemicals that easily color the bath surface. It is highly discouraged to use hair dyes in any bath.
• Soap. Many soaps contain caustic soda, which bleaches many enamel pigments over time. The soap should not remain on the open surface of the enamel for a long time.
• Other reasons. Frequent use of various bath bombs and oils also spoils the surface. The constant use of colored disinfectants and soaps in the bath water leads to the formation of stains, which can then only be removed by polishing. In some cases, the stain will penetrate the surface and will not be removed.
• Inevitable factors. If the above reasons can be minimized, then some of them are inevitable. For example, using water with iron, which leaves a yellowish brown stain.

The refurbished coating extends the life of the bathroom by 6-10 years. In order to independently enamel the bath, you need to buy special products, as well as carefully study the information on the stages of work. All of the following enamel coating methods have the advantage that they do not require dismantling the old bathtub.

It is not difficult to enamel the bath on your own.

Before starting, it is enough to study these methods:

• restoration of enamel coating with liquid acrylic;
• painting with new enamel using special kits;
• restoration by mounting an acrylic insert.

Each of these examples has advantages and disadvantages.

The main advantage of using enamel is a wide range of colors. In addition, this method allows an old bowl to be reanimated at no extra cost.

There are many more disadvantages of the method:

• short service life of the enamel coating;
• the disappearance of gloss and yellowing of the paint when using reagents, cleaning agents and detergents (taking care of the enamel is possible only with the help of soap and water);
• the coating turns out to be hard, but very fragile, so cracks can form when hitting hard objects;
• when filling the bath with hot water, the metal expands, but the enamel remains in place: this can cause cracks in the layers of enamel paint;
• long hardening time of the new layer.

A liquid acrylic surface has several distinct advantages over enamel:

• there is no sharp unpleasant smell during the bathroom renovation procedure;
• acrylic is flexible, ductile, does not crack when the metal expands in the process of heating water;
• acrylic dries pretty quickly;
• it is easier to apply than enamel;
• durable during operation.

There are also disadvantages of the coating: loss of gloss, sensitivity to the use of cleaning agents and mechanical damage.

A worthy opponent of enamel and acrylic is the acrylic liner. Medical acrylic is used as a raw material for manufacturing. It is distinguished by the following characteristics: resistance to dirt, long-term protection of color and shine, it is resistant to damage, absorbs noise when bathing. In addition, it is characterized by a certain resistance to various substances, long life.

There are also disadvantages that every consumer should be aware of. The acrylic insert is manufactured to specific standards, so it may not fit in every bathtub. In addition, the product is relatively expensive.

You can cover the product with a special spray. Such processing mostly has only positive reviews.

The density and durability of the enamel finish will depend on the quality of the product you purchase. Therefore, it is very important to pay attention to the peculiarities of the composition.

Typically, a bathroom bowl restoration kit consists of two or three components. A hardener is included in the standard kit for enameling the bath. Pay attention to its shade. If it is yellow-brown, red or rusty, you and the finished bathroom cover will not be snow-white.

All bathtub restoration compounds can be applied with brushes, rollers or spray. The spray formulation is sold in aerosol cans. It is advisable to use aerosols only on small damaged areas. If applied to the entire surface of a bath bowl, a non-uniform layer may result. To restore the enamel layer on your own, it is better to work with a brush.

The enamel color can be tinted individually. It can be adapted to fit your existing bathroom fixtures. For this you need a special paste. It can be included in the enamel kit. If not, you can purchase it separately. According to experts, the shade of the finished bathroom coating changes depending on the lighting. Therefore, it is better to choose the shade of the finished mixture in the same light as in the bathroom.

Kits for self-restoration of the bowl in the bathroom can be of different configurations. It is great if the kit includes not only two-component enamel and tinting paste, but also means for cleaning the old surface.

The stores offer a wide range of different brands. However, the ones described below are most commonly used.

These compositions are two-component, they are characterized by density. It is recommended to apply only with a brush. Due to the special consistency of the compounds, there will be no streaks and unpainted spots on the new surface. Due to the fact that the composition is thick, all cracks and scratches are completely filled.

Complete drying of the composition occurs within two days. According to the manufacturer's assurances, the service life of "Epoxin" is up to 9 years, but only with the correct application.

These sets called "Svetlana" and "Fantasy" are also in demand. They are distinguished only by the equipment. The enamel in these sets is two-component, and it can be applied not only with a brush, but also with a roller. Usually, masters do not work with these compositions, but mixtures are great for DIY enameling.

This compound is manufactured by Tikkurila and is used primarily by professionals. Enamel is produced in the form of a liquid two-component mixture, so it is much more difficult to work with it than with previous brands. To obtain a quality enamel finish, it is necessary to apply up to four coats of this enamel. After applying each layer, you need to wait a while for it to dry completely. Therefore, the procedure when using Reaflex takes at least a week, however, the result is excellent.

Fast drying epoxy paint of the Reaflex and Kudo brands is distinguished by its high quality. For ceramics, Vixen spray is best suited. The alkyd and melamine alkyd paints of the brands in question also received good customer reviews.

Warnings can be found in the instructions of various formulations. If you have any skills in painting, then you are probably familiar with safety when working with aggressive substances. For some, the technology of restoring a bath is comparable to repairing a boat motor, in fact, everything is not so difficult. It is necessary to purchase protection equipment, a list of required tools and accessories.

All painting work is best done in well-ventilated spaces where windows can be opened. Experts advise to carry out such work in the summer. Ventilation is imperative. To paint the bathtub without harm to health, it is imperative to use a respirator during work. You will also need latex-based household gloves. If they are double-layered, the hands will not be damaged by chemicals. Their insides are usually white, and the top layer is yellow. Better to buy several pairs at once.

Before restoration, it is necessary to remove all unnecessary from the bathroom. All mixtures used during bath enameling usually contain many aggressive components characterized by evaporation. It would be more correct to take out everything unnecessary from the bathroom, except for the faience elements, before starting the restoration of the enamel coating.

The washing machine must be well wrapped with plastic foil. You can use food grade, it is easier to wrap objects in it. Before you start painting the sides of the bowl, it is important to glue the tiles over the bathroom with construction tape.

The preparation of the bathroom bowl for all restoration options is the same and proceeds in the following order:

1. Cleaning the interior surfaces of the bathroom from the old layer of enamel using an abrasive stone. A grinder with a special attachment is suitable for this. Working with her will significantly reduce the time.
2. Cleaning the surface of cleaners with powder.
3. Then you should clean up the rust and any roughness, with special diligence we degrease the bowl.
4. Cleaning up the remaining rubbish. It is easier to clean by filling the bowl with water. After a while, drain the water and wipe it dry with lint-free cloths. You can wait until dry and then use a vacuum cleaner. This preparation will make the bowl dry and dull.

It is not difficult to restore a metal or acrylic bathtub at home. It is enough to follow the given tips. The acrylic version must first be primed. Enameling is carried out only after the reducing agent has been applied.

There are several options for applying bath enamel; brush and spray. Many people will be able to apply enamel with a brush, and to apply the second method, you will have to use special devices.

• A base layer of enamel is applied to the cleaned surface of the bowl, otherwise a primer will be needed. After applying a working composition of hardener and enamel, it can be dried.
• After the first coat has dried, apply the second and wait until it is completely dry. Further, if necessary, two more layers. The whole work should take about 3-4 hours. It is recommended to add 12-15 ml of phthalic acid to each portion of the mixture, gently stirring the solution.
• To properly dilute the paint, follow the instructions provided. It is better not to dilute the whole mixture at once, but to cook it in portions.
• When painting the bowl with enamel, lint may remain from the brush. Use tweezers or a utility knife to remove them.
• Painting the surface, moving from the bottom to the edge. You should have horizontal stripes. Each subsequent strip must be overlapped with the previous one. It is better to apply the second layer of enamel using the same technology.
• After applying the second coat, check for any smudges. If they appear, they should be rubbed with a sharp upward movement of the brush. Next to the drain holes, they can then be cut off with a knife.

This method is considered the youngest. More recently, baths began to be treated with liquid acrylic.A distinctive feature of this method is that the mixture is poured from the sides of the bowl.

Before pouring acrylic, you must remove the drain in the bathroom. Excess paint will drip down the sides and also into the drain hole. Therefore, you need to put a container under the drain, and spread newspapers around the bath so as not to stain the tiles.

Acrylic spilling along the walls fills in all the cracks. When applying the solution, make sure that no bubbles form. If a bubble appears and does not disappear within 2 minutes, it should be smeared with a brush. The entire procedure must be carried out as quickly as possible, since the mixture can dry out quickly.

To renew the enamelled bathtub surface, proceed as follows:

• On the cleaned surface, fill in all defects with putty. Then polish the entire surface of the bath with abrasive paper. If there are still scratches left, they should be repaired.
• Dry the bath surface completely. It is best to use an extraction gas.
• Prepare the paint by mixing thoroughly with the hardener to avoid the formation of bubbles in the emulsion. Wait ten minutes for the ingredients to drain and start painting.

According to its technical characteristics, the acrylic liner is a versatile material. It is easy to clean, durable, rust does not penetrate its surface.

Dry the bath well before installing. Then you should measure the position of the overflow and drain holes, drill holes for them in the liner.

With the help of special glue or polyurethane foam, the insert is attached to the bathtub. For a tighter fit, it is filled with water for a while. It is important that the adhesive is applied in a thin layer to both surfaces. On average, about 2 hours are spent on work, and the life of such a bowl is up to 20 years.

Silicone sealants and polyurethane foams are more suitable for installation. When using a ready-made bath, problems may arise - the liner will begin to flake off. To prevent this from happening, you need to buy a quality sealant. Especially carefully they treat the places near the sinks and sides.

If you make a choice in favor of polyurethane foam, then you should know that regular foam will not work. We'll have to purchase a special one. Regular foam easily absorbs water and expands strongly, so it is not used to secure acrylic liners.

It is better to entrust the installation of the insert to experts, but you can do it yourself. The cost of this method of bathroom restoration will not come cheap, but a well-laid finish will last for many years.

If you decide to install the insert yourself, start cleaning the room. It is necessary to provide free space around the bathroom, as well as remove the faucets, sinks and even the tiles on the wall next to the bathroom.

The procedure itself is divided into several stages:

• First, fit the insert to size. To do this, you need to install the insert in the bathroom, make marks with a felt-tip pen. Then take it out and cut off the excess parts.
• Next, a sealant or polyurethane foam is applied. The mixture should be applied to both the liner and the bathroom. It is advisable not to leave voids so that the acrylic bathtub will accurately adhere to the old surface.
• Then the liner is tightly inserted into the bath and pressed. You can use wooden slats on the sides. Then you need to screw on a new siphon.
• The final stage is to pour water into the bathroom, no higher than two centimeters from the edges. In this state, it must be left for a day for better adhesion of the liner to the old surface. Now it can be used for bathing.

The acrylic layer of the liner is much thinner than that of a conventional bathtub. Despite the assurances of the manufacturers, it cannot be used forever.In places where the liner is frayed, the bottom layer will become noticeable. And even if this layer is white, the appearance of the bath will lose its aesthetics. But it's better than rusty cast iron.

See below for more details.

Ordinary people have no way to determine the quality of dry acrylic. This means that the liner will quickly change from a snow-white color to a yellowed one. In order not to run into such a product, it is better to buy more expensive, but from a well-known manufacturer.