How to install the toilet properly?

Installing a toilet is a responsible process that is best left to professionals. However, this is not always possible, so it will not be superfluous to know how to install this important item in the toilet room yourself. At first glance, the procedure is optimally simple. You just need to connect the toilet to the pipes with water, sewage and securely fasten. And how this whole procedure actually looks will be discussed below.

In fact, the correct installation of the toilet is, of course, difficult. However, if you understand its technology, you can qualitatively install a toilet and save on plumbing services. At the same time, it will turn out to grow in your own eyes. Recently, the number of models of toilet bowls has increased significantly, if you wish, you can find one that will not seem difficult to install.

Together with them, in addition to the traditional method of installation, other methods of fastening appeared. For example, now the method when the tank is hidden in the wall has become especially popular. Wall toilets have also become widespread, which are attached directly to the wall, completely freeing the floor. Such models look very interesting, they are no more difficult to fasten than models with floor fasteners.

Also, the installation of the toilet is influenced by the type of fastening, flushing, supply of the sewer pipe, and its dimensions. Particular attention is paid to the evenness of the surface on which it is planned to install the plumbing. That is why it is better to think over in advance the model of the toilet and the type of room in which you will have to mount it yourself. This is especially true for toilets and bathrooms in new buildings. It is worth considering the size of the room so that the installation is easy and correct.

When installing toilet bowls in apartments or houses where there is already a toilet bowl, you should also consider dismantling the old product, as well as repairing it. Another point that should be thought over in advance is the availability of all the necessary tools, including a hammer drill, screwdrivers, and dowels. When purchasing a new toilet, you should carefully inspect the bowl and cistern before packing it. There should be no chips or cracks on the product. They can cause leakage of a new product.

Particular attention should be paid to the internal cavities, as well as the release of the toilet. It will not be superfluous to clarify what the complete set consists of. For example, when buying in a store, you should ask the seller if it has a seat, fasteners to the floor or wall. If something is missing, it is better to immediately purchase all the missing items. This will allow for installation without any problems.

There are a lot of types of toilets now, as well as the parameters by which they are divided. This often becomes the cause of customer confusion. Of all this variety, you must choose one toilet. At the same time, it is desirable that it ideally fit the toilet room.

By size, the toilets are divided into:

• universal, most common model;
• for children, which, with their small size, are very convenient for children;
• for people with disabilities, differ in different designs.

By the type of installation, toilet bowls are of two types.

• Floor standing, which is fixed to the floor. This type is divided into corner and wall.
• Suspended.Such models are mounted on the wall using special mounts (installation). They are called wall-mounted or built-in.

An important point is the compatibility of the wall-mounted toilet with the installation. The size of the installation should be selected based on its location. In addition, the installation allows you to install not only a toilet, but also a bidet.

Installations are:

• block, which are mounted only on a load-bearing wall;
• frame, which can be mounted anywhere.

By connecting the toilet to the sewer, several separate types are also distinguished.

Such toilets are connected to the sewer exclusively at an angle of 95 degrees. Such models are especially convenient when the sewer pipe passes through the wall. However, with the help of a corrugated pipe, the toilet can be equally easily attached to the floor. This species initially became widespread in Europe, and not so long ago in our country.

These designs are the most common, behind this name the most ordinary toilet bowls are hidden, which are connected to a sewer socket in the floor. Most often, such models are found in Stalin-era buildings, built in the middle of the twentieth century.

These toilets will be attached to the sewer pipe at an angle of 45 degrees. These structures can be seen in all houses that were built at the end of the last century.

Flushing the toilet is one of the highlights.

According to how the flush cistern is installed, toilet bowls are divided into three types.

• Suspended, which is mounted on the wall.
• Toilet cistern. This model can be called traditional and immediately recognizable. It is easy to install from above.
• The concealed cistern is built into the wall, thereby freeing up the room and making it even more attractive.

According to the location of the drain hole, plumbing products are divided into two types.

In such models, the water from the tank flows down the back wall of the bowl. The advantages of such a drain are that the flow of water is stronger, which means that it cleans the bowl better. It is worth considering that the back wall will always be dirtier, and there will be more splashes on the front. We have to clean the bowls of such toilets exclusively using household chemicals.

Water enters the toilet bowl through several holes, so the entire surface is washed more evenly. Of course, in these models, the cleaning of the back wall is worse, but in general, there is less splashing.

The supply of water to the cistern can be in different ways and also affects the installation of the toilet. It can be bottom, side and back.

By the way the water mirror is located, three types can be distinguished at once.

• Funnel-shaped when the water mirror is exactly in the middle of the bowl. This model has 1 significant drawback in the form of splashing water during its use.
• With a shelf, it is distinguished by the presence of a visor in front of a water mirror. This design leads to the spread of unpleasant odors.
• With a sloped back wall, the water mirror is highlighted to minimize splashes and odors. Experts recommend opting for this particular model.

By the drain in the upper cisterns, the toilet bowls can be divided into three main types.

The bell is a cast-iron cistern, which is connected to the toilet with a steel pipe. Inside, it is made up of a lever, a chain, a bell (a cast-iron plug with a gasket on the bottom). As it rises, the bell lets water into the drain pipe. As soon as the chain is released, the cork is lowered. The disadvantages of this model include the need to replace the gasket every few years. Another unpleasant moment is the accumulation of rust and deposits, which worsen drainage.

The corrugation works by pulling on the rope attached to the lever. The corrugation tilts, water is sucked in. While the rope is released, the corrugation funnel is angled until all the water in the tank is completely consumed.Of the problems with this design, it is worth noting a leak at the base of the corrugation, which forms after several years of use.

The pear is typical for all modern drainage systems. The principle of operation of the structure is based on the fact that the lever or button is pressed, the stem rises up, the pear leaves the saddle, water flows. Despite the variety of saddle and pear shapes, the disadvantages of this design are common. The biggest problem is that the elasticity of the rubber decreases, which leads to leaks. Another disadvantage is that the seat is contaminated with deposits, which also causes leakage.

Toilets can be classified by seat material (plastic), body material (sanitary faience, sanitary porcelain, metal, natural stone), design and even color. Some models are equipped with a microlift. This is one of the handy features.

Toilet planning should start with choosing a toilet. It is necessary to take into account all its features. Only after that is it worth proceeding with further actions. Of course, if there is an old toilet, it must be dismantled. Most likely, you will still have to carry out major repairs in the room. And it includes the renewal of the sewer lines, floor screed, cladding.

Before installation, you need to evaluate the dimensions of the new plumbing device. This will allow you to understand how best to place it: in the center of the room or closer to the wall. It may be better to mount it on the wall or move it close to the bathroom. It is necessary to decide on the height at which it is better to install the toilet. Today, modern models are capable of satisfying any whim in this regard.

The unconventional layout of the sewer pipe can be a daunting task. Therefore, it is worthwhile to foresee the best options in advance. Perhaps it is worth expanding or extending the pipe itself, or it may be better to choose a non-standard plumbing model. Ideally, of course, the toilet can be connected vertically at a 90 degree angle. It is worth remembering that it is better if there are as few intermediate parts between the toilet and the sewer as possible.

You can draw a diagram of the location of the toilet and other items in the toilet. This will make it more clear whether you need an angular placement of the structure or you can get by with a generally accepted standard. In modern new buildings, everything is simple. After all, here the toilet is installed from scratch, all communications are summed up, taking into account a variety of models. In the old Khrushchev buildings, everything is clearly more complicated.

When the new toilet has already been selected, the location is known, as well as its main characteristics, it is worth moving on to the next stage in the form of dismantling the old toilet. More often than not, floor standing toilets have to be cleaned. You can easily and quickly cope with such a task yourself. There is no need to contact the master.

It's worth starting by turning off the water and draining it from the tank into the toilet bowl. Then you need to unscrew the hose that fits from the drainage to the tank. Next, the tank fasteners are untwisted. If they do not give in, it is worth using special means. They are applied to the fasteners (for about 6 minutes), completely dissolving lime or rust during this time.

Of course, you can do without such funds. For example, using an adjustable wrench or screwdriver makes it easier to rip off the fastening bolts. If the old toilet is going to be thrown away, then the problem of poor disconnection of the cistern can be solved with a hammer. After the tank fasteners are unscrewed, you should go to the toilet fasteners. They often look like a nut screwed onto an anchor. To facilitate the unscrewing process, you can use the methods described above.

When all the fasteners are unscrewed, it is necessary to disconnect the toilet bowl drain from the sewer. In old toilets, as a rule, the place where the drain is attached to the sewer pipe was coated with cement. If so, you will have to remove the cement with a screwdriver and hammer.And you need to start with a coating running across the seam.

Next, you should swing the drain, but leave it in place. The toilet must be moved in different directions in order to finally drain the water remaining in the knee. It is necessary to disconnect the neck from the sewer pipe. This is not always easy: sometimes the toilet can be glued to the floor with cement mortar. In this case, using a chisel and a hammer, the pedestal is chipped off in parts.

The toilet should now be easy to unhook and can be taken to the trash heap. If desired, you can chop it with a sledgehammer to make it easier to endure. Another important point is that you need to plug the sewer hole with a plastic or wooden plug. This will allow you to work without unpleasant odors.

After the old toilet is dismantled, you should evaluate the condition of the pipes. For example, before installing a new design, experts recommend replacing the cast-iron pipe with a new plastic one. Modern pipes can greatly facilitate the installation of the toilet. Perhaps it is better to replace an uneven pipe with a direct analogue in order to make it easier to mount the toilet bowl to the sewer drain.

Installing a toilet on your own is not at all difficult if you follow a short step-by-step guide. Moreover, for installing the toilet on the floor and on the wall, the most important thing is a flat and prepared surface for the mountings. For installation, it is worth preparing a number of tools in advance.

The main list includes:

• puncher;
• Boer;
• adjustable wrench;
• spanners;

• hammer;
• sealant;
• screwdrivers;
• roulette;
• flexible hose.

The toilet cistern is supplied fully assembled or disassembled. In the second case, it will need to be assembled before installation. It is best to start the installation by decomposing all the parts to make sure they are present. Following the instructions from the toilet manufacturer, you need to assemble the inside of the cistern. The steps may differ depending on the type of drainage system. It is worth re-checking the reliability of the fastening of the parts, but without undue effort, especially when tightening the screws and bolts.

Floor-standing toilets are somewhat easier to install than wall-mounted ones. Yes, and so far they are still more popular. Determine the coverage and evenness of the floor in the washroom. The installation of the toilet on the floor differs based on the floor covering. For example, on a tiled floor, there is no need for additional leveling.

If a tile is laid on the base, but it is not completely even, it is better to install it with chops and screws. If the toilet will be installed in a new building, where there is no decoration, it is better to fill in the screed and then lay the tiles. If there was a wooden stand under the old toilet, it should be removed. The resulting empty space should be filled with cement (preferably one that hardens quickly). In the event that the floor cannot be completely leveled, it is possible to increase the tightness during installation with a sealant.

They clean the sewer pipe from debris and sediments, install a tap on the water supply (if it is not there) to shut off the water to the tank. Connect the toilet bowl drain to the sewer pipe. This can be done in one of several ways.

It is better to seal the junction of the toilet bowl with the sewer with silicone sealant. This will ensure that water does not enter the toilet while cleaning the floor. If the toilet bowl is connected to a cast iron pipe, it is best to use a transition sleeve with a diameter of 110 mm. Before use, a sealant is abundantly applied to it, then it is inserted into a cast iron pipe. It is worth emphasizing that before this it is imperative to clean the pipe from contamination.

You can do this with a pleated cuff. The main advantage of this method is cost effectiveness. However, the toilet cannot be attached to the flare.It is better not to choose this method for small rooms. With the help of a straight collar, you can provide a strong and tight connection between the bowl and the drain. With the help of an eccentric cuff, it is possible if the connection centers of the toilet and sewage are displaced. Follow a predefined toilet installation method.

Try on the product again. Particular attention should be paid to the angle of inclination, as well as how the height of the sewer matches the neck. If inconsistencies are identified, they should be eliminated. With a pencil or a marker, circle the seat.

Make the markup. To do this, determine the central axis of the toilet. It is best if it aligns with the center of the room. With a reference point on the axis, you need to install the bowl at a distance of about 15 cm from the sewer socket. Marks are made for the holes using a marker, which is inserted strictly vertically into the holes for the fasteners.

Mounting holes are prepared. To do this, you need to remove the toilet to the side, make holes with a puncher according to the marks. Then it is necessary to clean the holes of debris and pour silicone into them, which in this case is a waterproofing agent. Then you need to insert the dowels.

Install the bowl. A special rubber gasket or a layer of silicone is placed on the outlined landing site. Then they put the toilet in place and press it to the floor. Bushings are inserted into the holes for fasteners, the screws are tightened without unnecessary efforts, fixing everything with plugs. Remove excess silicone with a rubber spatula or damp cloth.

You can use silicone glue, liquid sealant, epoxy. This method is only suitable for smooth floors. Markup is carried out. To do this, place the bowl in the required place and outline the outline with a pencil.

Prepare the foundation. You need to start by cleaning the floor and base of the bowl from various contaminants. For the best adhesion to the glue, the surface must be roughened. To do this, clean it with sandpaper. It is also necessary to degrease the base of the toilet and the floor with acetone or solvent.

Prepare the adhesive for work, according to the manufacturer's instructions. Apply glue to the bottom of the toilet and the inside of the contour on the floor. It should not be applied in too large a layer. Place the bowl in place. It is imperative to press it firmly to the floor.

Wait for the glue to dry completely. This usually takes at least 12 hours. During this time, it is better not to touch the toilet or sit down. This will avoid location offsets. The mount will be more durable.

Taffeta is a spacer made from durable wood. A plumbing structure is attached to it. This method is ideal for installing the toilet on a wooden floor. However, it can also be used for floors with other finishes. In addition to wood for taffeta, a rubber backing with a thickness of 5 - 15 mm is sometimes used. For example, you can use an old rubber mat.

Prepare the taffeta. To do this, take a board, the thickness of which is 2.8 - 3.2 cm, cut out a workpiece from it. Then it is treated with linseed oil or a solution capable of preventing rotting. For reliable fastening, anchors are fixed into the workpiece. You can also drive in nails in a checkerboard pattern so that they stick out from it by 2 - 3 cm.

Make a recess in the floor to install the toilet. The size and configuration of the recess must fully correspond to the dimensions and shape of the taffeta. Fill the recess with cement. Take a taffeta and turn it with anchors or nails down. Then they put it in the cement on the floor. If done correctly, the board will be flush with the floor.

They are waiting for the cement to completely harden. Install the toilet. To do this, put the bowl on taffeta and fix it with screws, which are pre-lubricated with grease or graphite. Washers made of rubber must be placed under the screw heads so that the ceramics remain undamaged.

After the toilet is fixed, simple instructions follow.

• The cistern is installed directly on the toilet bowl and fastened using the plastic screws included in the kit. It is important not to forget to install an O-ring between the cistern and the toilet.

• Connect a flexible hose. It is advisable to choose a long hose for this. Particular attention should be paid to the diameter of the inlet holes so that the mount is strong. Do not use excessive force when tightening the flare nuts.
• Install the cover with the seat and the release button. Recommendations for their installation are in the instructions. The technology of work is extremely simple and understandable to everyone.
• Make a trial run of water. If there is a leak anywhere, tighten the connections.
• Adjust the locking mechanism according to the instructions.

You can install toilets on the wall in a private house and apartment. Connecting modern models to the sewer is completely simple.

It is worth noting that such structures can be used even with a vertical sewer outlet.

• Assemble the installation frame itself, according to the instructions.
• The upper stops are installed, which outwardly resemble rods. They are adjusted using a screwdriver and a socket wrench.
• Install the lower stops, similar to the plates. Adjust them with a socket wrench.

• They adjust the height, for which the already assembled frame is moved to the wall. The center of the frame must be aligned exactly over the middle of the sewer pipe.
• The installation is installed in height using a bubble level. There is a mark on the frame that should be lowered or raised to the required height. Most often it is 1 m.
• Adjust the height of the stops, and also set the distance from the wall specified in the documents.
• Fix the exposed frame reinforcement to the wall. To do this, mark in the necessary places with a pencil or marker. After that, it is necessary to drill the holes and install the dowel bodies in them. Then the fasteners themselves are installed, having previously planted it on the sealant.

• Install branch pipes, as well as couplings in the fixed installation. They are fixed in place.
• Install metal rods. The toilet bowl will be attached to them. They are screwed into special sockets, then silicone seals are put on top.
• Pull the sewer pipe to the required distance and fix it with a bracket. It must be inserted into the groove until it clicks.
• Connect the water supply to the tank. To do this, open the tank lid and remove the plug on the side surface. A corrugated pipe is introduced into the resulting hole. It is connected to the insides with a slip nut. It must be tightened very carefully, since most often the nut is made of plastic.

• A tee is installed inside the tank, to which a pipe is brought using an American and an adapter. Also, a flexible hose from the tank is connected to the tee. It is attached with a union nut.
• Cover the toilet installation with a false wall, for example, made of moisture-resistant plasterboard. As a rule, drywall is attached to the frame and profiles.
• They decorate the wall and hang the toilet bowl. Install a decorative panel for the drain device.
• They put the toilet on the pins, the release of the bowl hermetically enters the plastic sewer socket.

Before installing and before purchasing a toilet, you should read the recommendations of experienced plumbers.

By following some rules, many problems can be avoided.

• The first thing that experts advise to pay attention to is the type of drain. This is especially important if the sewer supply will not change. With the help of adapters, it is especially difficult to make a high-quality connection of a toilet bowl with an inappropriate type of sewer.
• You should not postpone the purchase of plumbing until the last moment, as well as purchase it after repair. It is better if the place in the toilet room will be prepared for a specific toilet model in advance.This will simplify the installation of plumbing.

• Avoid saving on bolts and anchors. It is better to choose nickel-plated mounts. They do not rust. This will protect the product in the future from ugly drips, as well as the adhesion of the bolts.
• An eccentric cuff, called a corrugation, will help compensate for differences in floor height before and after renovation. It is better to use a flexible hose to supply water to the tank.
• In the case when the sewer pipe goes through the floor, it is worth using a rectangular elbow or a flexible corrugated cuff.

• Ideal when installing, when the toilet bowl drain will be connected to the sewer without any cuffs and other additional elements. A rubber-edged ring can be used for sealing.

Plumbers recommend using small wedges made of wood or plastic. However, they also need to use a sealant to evenly distribute the weight of the toilet. When installing the toilet on old cast iron, it is better to use a sealant.

If the water line is old, it should definitely be replaced. When choosing an eyeliner, you need to know the distance from the joints on the pipe with water to the attachment with the toilet cistern. Then you need to replace the old flexible water line. And to it you should also add 15 - 20 cm. Adapters for threads at the joints or FUM tape should be purchased in advance.

To do this, make marks in the right places. A self-tapping screw is attached to them and hit with a hammer several times. After that, you can drill the tile with a punch or drill, but only without the impact mode.

If the sewer riser is made of cast iron, it must be cleaned to metal, then thoroughly washed and dried. After that, a sealant is applied to a dry and clean metal surface. And you need to put it down a little more. After that, it must be connected to the corrugation.

You can also apply sealant to the outer part of the joint.

• In order to easily and without damage to remove the corrugation connecting the toilet bowl and the sewer, its outlet and outlet of the toilet bowl are lubricated with wet soap. And only after this procedure is the sewer bell put on.
• Before you make marks with a marker through the holes in the bottom of the bowl, you need to sit down on it and check how comfortable it is. If necessary, you need to immediately correct the position.
• Do not use plastic dowels that come in conjunction with toilets. They break quickly, so it is better to give preference to other fasteners.

An additional insert in an old cast iron sewer pipe can be removed with a hammer drill or burned out. Under no circumstances should a hammer be used. You can burn out if the cavity was filled with sulfur or blocked with a bob. Before burning out it is necessary to ensure sufficient ventilation of the room, remove all flammable agents and materials.

When installing the toilet with glue, you can make it yourself. To do this, you need to take 100 parts of ED-6 epoxy. Then you should warm it up to 50 degrees and add 20 parts of a plasticizer or solvent, stir well. Pour 35 parts of the hardener into the resulting solution and mix again. It remains to add 200 parts of cement there and mix until a plastic homogeneous mixture is obtained.

How to install the toilet, see the next video.