Leaking drain tank: causes and remedies

A toilet cistern leak invariably causes a lot of trouble. Because of this, the hum of the flowing liquid is constantly heard, the surface of the bowl is covered with corrosion, condensation gradually accumulates on the pipes, due to which mold forms. In addition, water bills are increasing significantly.

In order to avoid all these unpleasant consequences, all tank leaks must be eliminated as soon as possible. By the way, most of the problems are easy to fix on your own, without resorting to the services of plumbers. However, for this you need to have at least a minimal understanding of the operation of this system and all of its components.

In order to quickly eliminate the breakdown, you should get acquainted with the theoretical basics of the plumbing device, namely, find out how the water outlet from the plumbing device works.

Regardless of the operational parameters of the toilet, absolutely any modification has two basic parts - a bowl and a cistern. The bowl, as a rule, is located on the floor, but in recent years, products built into the walls have become increasingly popular. The water tank is always located above the bowl. The water drain mechanism is based on the basic principle of a "water seal" - which implies leakage under the influence of pressure generated by pressing the lever (button).

These days, plumbing stores boast the widest selection of various toilet bowls and cisterns of all modifications. The latter, by the way, may differ depending on which feature is taken as the basis of the classification.

The most common way of installing a bowl, the relevance of which has not diminished for many decades, involves the installation of a single structure that connects both the toilet and the bowl, which are a single whole. The undoubted advantage of such plumbing is the absence of the need for pipes that would connect these two elements. This group also includes the "compact" models - they are bolted through a gasket to the rear ledge of the toilet

In recent years, hinged structures have become very popular, when the tank is installed at a certain height from the bowl. This guarantees a fairly strong water pressure and, accordingly, effective flushing. Such structures are quite strong and durable, they look stylish and are considered one of the most convenient to use, in addition, they can significantly save space in the bathroom. The only drawback of the installation can be called, perhaps, the loud sound of the drain, which is heard at the time of the descent of the waters.

Concealed structures are models from the category of "installations", one of the most fashionable trends. Such products are optimal for apartments and houses with renovation. In this case, the cistern is mounted in the wall and closed with panels and a fake wall, which makes it almost invisible, and the system is started by pressing a special panel.

By the type of discharge, the tanks are conditionally divided into two categories.

• Lever Is a system widely represented in older types of models. Here, the water supply during flushing is regulated by a special lever, the lifting of which opens the drain hole.
• Push-button - devices with two buttons, which are in higher demand among consumers. The system allows you to economically use water, since it has two modes of operation - when one button is pressed, only half of the water in the tank is poured, and when both buttons are pressed, the full volume.

The fluid supply is regulated by the use of fittings, which, in turn, are divided into several types.

• Side - this type is most common among domestic models of plumbing and involves the location of fittings from above, not from below. The undoubted advantage of such models is the rather low price, and the disadvantages are associated with an excessively noisy set of water, which significantly reduces the level of comfort in the room.
• Lower - these are more expensive models that raise the noise to the lowest level. Models with such an eyeliner are produced both in Russia and abroad.

The drainage of water into the bowl is regulated by shut-off valves, it is she who prevents leaks unnecessarily. The mechanism of action here is simple: as the tank is filled with liquid, the water creates pressure, which leads to a tangible pressing of the built-in valve against the drain into the bowl, thereby stopping the flow of water into the toilet. Therefore, in a situation where the water in the tank suddenly starts to run even after filling the tank, we can confidently say that the breakdown is associated with a violation of the functionality of the shut-off valves.

The role of the "regulator" of the liquid level in the sump is performed by the valve. When the preset water mark is reached, its supply to the reservoir ends. In this case, a special float serves as a kind of indicator, which is connected to the filling valve by means of a brass rod.

If the earliest models of drain mechanisms offered a side valve placement and a float horizontally, then more modern products are characterized by a vertical position of the float and the installation of a valve in the lower compartment of the drain tank.

The drain and overflow of water is also supervised by a special mechanism that prevents water from overflowing outward in case of problems with the drain valve.

Each of these elements may fail over time and require repair or replacement. We will not review the problems associated with mechanical damage to the tank body itself. Practice shows that such breakdowns require replacing the entire tank, since even very resistant adhesives are ineffective when serious splits appear.

A tank leak can occur for a variety of reasons, while absolutely every design of the drain mechanism is characterized by individual characteristics, therefore, the way to eliminate problems in each case will be individual. Nevertheless, the most common installation is the closed-type model, which is why we will consider the most common causes of leakage using this design as an example.

The first reason that the tank is dripping is depressurization. In this case, a leak occurs in the area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe junction of the tank and the toilet itself. As a rule, the cause is deformation or abrasion of the rubber seal.

The leak can be eliminated by installing a new gasket.

This work is carried out as follows:

• the water pressure valve closes, and, accordingly, the water supply stops;
• all residual moisture is removed from the tank with a sponge and an absorbent cloth;
• then you should unscrew the drain nut, which is located directly under the trigger hatch;
• all the screws with which the tank is attached to the toilet bowl are unscrewed;

• the tank is being dismantled;
• then it is required to unscrew the lock nut holding the drain, then the latter is removed;
• a new gasket is installed;
• the flush mechanism is fixed with new locknuts;
• the tank stops in place and is secured with hardware.

All gaskets are made for specific models of toilet bowls, they have different shapes and differ in size, so it is extremely important to choose the size required for your particular mechanism. If the gasket is smaller or larger than required, then the problem with the leakage will not go anywhere.

Less often, but the reasons for depressurization may lie in something else - when the bolt fixing the cistern on the toilet rusts or the insulation, which is responsible for the tightness of the hole for this very bolt, wears out. In such a case, you need to screw in a new bolt and put the insulation rubber band.

The procedure is as follows:

• the water supply is interrupted;
• the washer capacity is completely drained;
• all bolts are turned out and removed from the seats.

A sealing washer is attached to each bolt, after which they return to the joint and tighten with nuts.

Sometimes even replacing the insulation is not required - just tighten the loosened nut. However, don't be too zealous - if you tighten the bolt too tight, the faience can simply go cracked.

All these actions are quite within the power of a person without experience in working with plumbing, while the savings will be tangible: to replace materials, you will need about 200 rubles for a gasket and about 100-300 rubles for a set of bolts (at 2017 prices). And the call of the master will cost at least 1200-1400 rubles.

The second reason for leakage is associated with the displacement of the lever. To correct the situation, it is simply enough to return it to its original position - strictly horizontally just below the level of the pipe connection.

To eliminate other leaks associated with the lever, you must:

• lift the lid of the drain tank;
• raise the float slightly and try to adjust it.

If after that the water no longer leaks and does not drip, then it is necessary to unbend the axis of the float or replace it with a new one. If the flow does not stop, then take a closer look at the valve.

When the tank does not hold water and leaks, then the reason may lie in the damage to the pear. In this case, the liquid continuously flows into the toilet, even after flushing. As a rule, the reason here is associated with the fact that during operation the rubber part loses its elasticity, becomes rigid, stops taking the required shape and begins to crumble. It makes no sense to repair it - the pear cannot be restored, only the replacement of the element can help here.

When choosing the right pear, give preference to the softest product. Such models can be used for quite some time until it also hardens. To begin with, the pear should be turned clockwise - this will remove the thread on the fastener, and then during installation, turn it again, but counterclockwise.

Tip: Until you have purchased a pear, you can use a weight suspended on the rod, for example, any heavy nut. This will apply pressure to the bag, thereby attaching it to the saddle.

A shutoff valve problem is often the cause of the tank leaking. You can fix it. To do this, adjust the degree of pressure of the hatch on the element of the drain pipe, grinding its end. But all these actions require a lot of time and effort, and in addition, professional training, otherwise the situation can not only not be corrected, but also worsened.

It will be more correct to replace the entire tank or its drain unit. To do this, as usual, first shut off the water and drain the tank, and then remove all fixing screws. Next, the tank itself is dismantled and the rubber gasket is replaced, the locknuts are unscrewed and the entire previous mechanism is removed. A new one is mounted to replace it, and then all actions are repeated in reverse order.

Please note that the new drainage mechanism must be the same model as the old one, or in extreme cases from the same manufacturer.For example, if your broken tank is from Cersanit, then the new one must be made in the same factory.

In principle, such work is simple, any home craftsman who has at his disposal spanners and a couple of adjustable wrenches can replace the tank. If you are not confident in your abilities, then use the help of a professional. True, his services must be paid for, in 2017 the average check for such work was 1600-1800 rubles.

A widespread failure that leads to leakage of the cistern is the deformation of the bolts that connect the toilet and cistern. Plastic fasteners burst, and metal fasteners become rusty - this causes leaks.

To correct the situation, you need to carefully inspect all the fittings. - there is a high probability that a single bolt is subject to replacement. However, the specialist still recommends buying a set of bolts. In any case, each of them will come in handy while using the toilet.

If most of the bolts are rusted and there is no way to unscrew and remove them, then you can cut them with a hacksaw for metal, then the tank is pushed back and the shelf located on the cuff is removed. After that, the remnants of the rusty bolts are removed and the remaining corrosion in the holes is removed. For assembly, new seals are installed and new bolts are screwed in. When securing the latter, try not to allow any distortions, all movements should be soft, without effort and firm pressing, otherwise you can crush the faience and then the repair will require much larger amounts.

Overfilling and breakage of the drain tank can have other reasons. For example, buying a structure with poor quality parts. If this is the problem, then you need to buy a new item, more reliable and of high quality. However, you can try to fix some defects “in place”. For example, if a small hole appears in the float, then it can be repaired with the simplest polyethylene or a piece of plastic. For this, the material is heated over a lighter fire, after which the defect is “closed”. However, such a repair can only be a temporary solution to the problem; replacing the float that is leaking liquid with a new one will be required in any case.

And finally, cracks on the sides of the cistern or at its bottom. If the damage is small, you can try to cover it with a high quality sealant. But, like the previous method, this method is designed to temporarily solve the problem, the product will not last long and you will still need to replace the tank and toilet bowl.

The button mechanism requires a slightly different approach. First, let's dwell on the features of such systems.

They are of several types:

• with a single button - while the water is drained while the button is held down;
• with one button, when the drain starts with the first short press and lasts until the second;
• with two buttons - each of them releases a different volume of water with a different flow head.

The mechanism of action is different here, but the principle is the same. In the fittings, when the button is pressed, the device that blocks the drain rises. At the same time, the stand itself remains motionless - that's the whole difference.

If water flows out of such an installation, first of all, you should determine in which position the switch is located, and then try to establish the cause of the breakdown: when the button remains in the shaft, then, most likely, the return spring has lost its elasticity. The lid of such a barrel will always be held in the "open" position.

Otherwise, the subsequence is the same here:

• dismantle the cover and switch;
• install a new spring;
• center the seat - it is located directly under the hole in the tank lid;
• reassemble.

In order for problems with plumbing and, in particular, with a toilet bowl, to happen as rarely as possible, experts recommend taking a set of preventive measures. To do this, it is advisable to thoroughly clean the toilet mechanism and the drain tank every six months. It makes sense to regularly monitor the actual condition of the fittings and valves.

Toilets very poorly tolerate temperature changes and mechanical damage, and if this or that took place, you should carefully check the condition of the plumbing, even if outwardly it looks good.

timely prevention significantly extends the service life of the entire system as a whole. If any leak occurs, first of all, simple defects are eliminated, and only after that they begin to fix more serious problems.

Most often, the leakage of the cistern can be eliminated without the involvement of specialists. The construction itself is pretty simple. Its assembly / disassembly does not require special tools and professional skills, and spare parts can be purchased at any store. As a rule, their cost is low.

We have analyzed the most common causes of leaks., in 95% of cases your problem is related to one of them. But if you have replaced all the damaged parts, tightened the bolts and sealed cracks, and water is still pouring, then you should contact a plumber.

And, of course, the quality of the structure is an important factor affecting the life of the toilet bowl. For a practical toilet, you should go to a large plumbing store with a good reputation - there you can find models for every taste and wallet for your toilet. At the same time, you can be sure that all the presented products are distinguished by their strength and high quality.

When purchasing a structure, you need to pay attention to a number of points:

• there should be no external defects, chips and cracks on the cistern and toilet, the product should be evenly coated;
• the kit should include all the components necessary for installation;
• the product must be accompanied by instructions that will allow you to assemble the installation correctly, which will prevent the rapid appearance of leaks.

In conclusion, we will acquaint you with an overview of manufacturers of toilets and cisterns, whose products have established themselves on the market as reliable, practical and durable.

Sanita - a Russian brand that has been operating since the middle of the last century - even during the war years, the enterprise produced ceramics for the needs of the army, and in peacetime the enterprise redesigned its production facilities and started producing plumbing fixtures.

The advantage of the products of this brand is the relatively low cost, as well as:

• high quality of the materials used;
• installation of Swiss fittings;
• shower flush function.

The disadvantages include a weak drain, however, it is typical only for certain models of the brand.

IDDIS Is another domestic manufacturer that has been successfully selling its products on the sanitary ware market for over 10 years. Among Russian consumers, it is the DDIS brand systems that are in greatest demand due to their ease of use, ease of installation and low price.

Some models may have non-standard mounts and this is attributed to disadvantages, but, however, they do not affect the operation of the drain mechanism in any way.

The category "comfort" includes products from leading European manufacturers.

Gustavsberg - a company from Sweden that mastered the production of toilet bowls more than 5 years ago.

These stylish products have excellent performance characteristics:

• ease of installation;
• ease of use;
• economical water consumption;
• silent work;
• high quality components.

At the same time, the models are very narrowly represented on the Russian market, which is why, if systems break down, problems may arise with the purchase of spare parts.In addition, the products of this brand are quite often counterfeited in our country, therefore, the purchase of an expensive installation may entail the risk of being the owner of a defective copy.

Jika - a manufacturer from the Czech Republic. The company has been producing toilet bowls since the 90s of the last century.During this time, the brand's products have managed to establish themselves as an industry leader and have won many hearts of consumers in Russia. Today the factory is part of the Roca group of companies and successfully sells sports goods in most countries of the Eurasian continent.

Advantages of Jika products:

• durability;
• aesthetic design;
• economical water consumption;
• wide range of prices.

The disadvantages include the high cost of repairs and spare parts, if there is a breakdown or a leak, then it will take a rather tangible amount to fix it. Well, in addition, in stores, there is often an incomplete set, so be careful and check everything without leaving the counter.

The premium models include Jacob Delafon. This is a manufacturer from France, which launched the production of toilet ceramics as early as the nineteenth century. The assortment line of sanitary ware of this brand has more than 1000 items, brand products can be found in the most expensive houses, hotels and restaurants in the world.

The advantages are obvious: they are exceptionally high quality, impeccable design, quiet operation and economical water consumption. Disadvantages are also associated with the level of the product - few people undertake to repair such a product, and it is quite problematic to find components for plumbing.

For information on how to fix a leak in a cistern with your own hands, see the next video.