- Authors: Horal Jiri, Klapste Petr, Alekseev Yu.B. (originator: IE Aleksashova M.V.)
- Year of approval: 1997
- Category: grade
- Growth type: determinant
- Appointment: universal
- Ripening period: mid-season
- Ripening time, days: 105-110
- Growing conditions: for a balcony, for growing on a windowsill, pot culture, decorative gardening
- Marketability: high
- Bush size: undersized
Pinocchio tomatoes do not belong to particularly whimsical plants, however, they are very responsive to the efforts of the grower and will pay back with large and juicy fruits.
Description of the variety
Pinocchio is a determinant varietal plant with a universal fruit function. It is grown on balconies, windowsills and even in pots. This is a standard culture, the stalk has an articulation. The fruits of this variety are highly marketable.
Bushes are undersized, up to 35 centimeters high. Plants are compact, with a strong, thick stem. The foliage is dark, of an intermediate type.
The main qualities of the fruit
When ripe, the fruits of Pinocchio are red, cherry-sized, weighing up to 20 grams.
Taste characteristics
The tomatoes of the described variety are sweet.
Ripening and fruiting
The variety belongs to the mid-season category. You can harvest the fruits in 105-110 days after planting the seed. Bushes bear fruit for a long time, from July to August, fruits are harvested from the bushes.
Yield
This indicator is equal to 1-1.5 kg per bush, 5-6 kg / m2.
The timing of planting seedlings and planting in the ground
If you grow Pinocchio at home, then in February they already sow seeds, in March - if on the balcony. Seedlings are transferred to the ground in May-June.
Growing tomato seedlings is an extremely important process, because it largely depends on whether the gardener will be able to harvest at all. All aspects must be taken into account, from seedbed preparation to planting in the ground.
Landing scheme
The most suitable planting density is 4-5 plants per square meter. Distance - 30 * 30.
Growing and care
Pinocchio tomatoes are not needed for picking and garter. Proper care of tomatoes in the garden includes the following points:
- regular watering;
- top dressing;
- garter, providing support for large bushes;
- loosening the soil;
- hilling;
- weed removal;
- prevention of pests and diseases.
Caring for Pinocchio tomatoes begins long before the first bush is in the ground. You should take care of the preparation of the soil in advance. Gardeners are advised to do this in the fall, enriching the land with fertilizers. For this, not only purchased mixtures are suitable, it is quite possible to do with the usual dressings:
- compost;
- ash;
- eggshell.
Important! The most important condition for good growth of tomatoes of this variety is a slightly alkaline soil, with a reaction not higher than 7.0 pH.
Taking proper care of your tomatoes involves developing and adhering to a watering schedule based on the climate. The most important thing is not to overmoisten the land and prevent drought. Tomatoes of this variety love abundant and frequent watering at the very root. This helps the root system to form, but frequent, but scarce irrigation, on the contrary, harms it.If you overdo it and "flood" the plants during the ripening of the fruit, you will get a harvest of large, but watery tomatoes. Even worse, overflow often provokes the development of fungal diseases, which are prone to Pinocchio's tomato, cracking of the fruit.
Lack of moisture is also detrimental to the culture, as a result - top rot and wilting of bushes. When watering, make sure that the spray does not fall on the leaves, fruits and trunk of the bush. The ideal way is to water with a watering can at the root, it is important to provide the root system with moisture, but it is not needed for the ground part of the plant.
If you water the tomatoes with water with the addition of ash, they will grow better and less likely to get sick.
With the appearance of the first ovary, it is advised to loosen the ground under the bush. Often this is not necessary, it is enough to carry out the procedure every time a hard crust appears.
Experienced gardeners recommend fertilizing tomatoes at least three times a season, and ideally twice a month. The main thing is that potassium and phosphorus predominate in the composition, but not nitrogen. In addition to chemical compositions, poultry droppings can be used with no less success.
Magnesium is used constantly, but boron only after the first flowers appear. For feeding with boron: 1 g of boric acid per liter of water.
A plant needs different micronutrients at each stage of growth. All fertilizers can be divided into two groups: mineral and organic. Folk remedies are often used: iodine, yeast, bird droppings, eggshells.
It is important to observe the rate and period of feeding. This also applies to folk remedies and organic fertilizers.
Disease and pest resistance
One of the most common problems when growing Pinocchio tomatoes is rot, which spreads throughout the plant in damp weather, causing the bush to die off and the fruits begin to decompose. In order to prevent rotting, you should spray tomatoes with a solution of copper sulfate in early summer.
Insects harm tomatoes in the same way as most plants. In the fight against them, sprays with the recommended insecticides are used if signs of pests appear or as a prophylaxis in order to prevent them.
To get rid of aphids, try sprinkling cold water on the leaves (sometimes that's enough) or wiping down each leaf with dish soap. You can also make a mixture of detergent and cayenne pepper. This is a fairly effective method of killing these insects.
As for the tracks, it is better to collect them by hand. Wasps feed on caterpillars and act as biological controls. To keep Pinocchio tomatoes safe from these pests next year, try planting dill nearby. Marigolds also help keep most insects at a safe distance.
Use an insecticidal soap spray on whiteflies. In addition, ladybugs and spiders can help control the presence of these insects. Some gardening and hardware stores offer special whitefly traps that may be helpful but not nearly as successful as insecticidal soap.
If the yellowing of the leaf begins on old leaves and spreads further, it may not be a virus, but a lack of magnesium. In order to eliminate it, use a special fertilizer containing magnesium.