Mongolian dwarf tomato

Inexperienced gardeners prefer to grow undersized crops as they are the easiest to care for. The Mongolian dwarf tomato belongs to just such varieties.

The author of the variety is the Novosibirsk breeder Blokin-Mechtalin V.I.

The tomato is approved for use in 2020. The variety has not yet been entered into the State Register. Because of this, the possibility of buying seeds is minimized. Only a few companies present Mongolian dwarf seeds to the market. Because of these difficulties, many gardeners stumble upon fakes and are often unhappy with the harvest.

The variety was bred for planting in Siberia, the Urals and the Far East. It is easy to care for and well adapted to weather conditions.

Culture is also found under other names:

• Mongol dwarf;

• Mongol tomato;

• Lazy favorite;

• Mongolskiy karlik;

• Mongolian Dwarf tomato;

• Creeping tomato.

The variety belongs to determinant crops and is considered one of the lowest. The height of the bush is from 20 to 30 cm. The stem is well developed, while very fragile and thin. But the main feature of the variety is that the trunk, reaching a height of about 15 cm, begins to slope towards the ground. Therefore, culture also refers to those creeping on the ground.

There are many stepchildren, and they all go into the width of the bush, forming a large branched crown. The width can be up to 1 m.

The root system develops well, but does not germinate deeply. At the same time, the roots adhere well to the ground. Such a hitch is enough to hold the bush during strong gusts of wind.

The leaves are small and narrow. There are quite a few of them on the bush. The color is deep green. On the leaf blades there are: pubescence, midsection and veins.

The advantages of the variety include:

• yield;

• no need to tie and pinch;

• universal application;

• terms of fruiting;

• immunity to a number of fungal diseases;

• shelf life.

Among the disadvantages are:

• does not tolerate acidic and heavy soils;

• grows poorly in humid and hot climates;

• the inability to purchase seeds in any store.

The fruits are large, round and slightly oblong in shape. The average weight of a tomato reaches 140 g. Larger fruits ripen on the lower clusters, up to 200 g.

The skin of a ripe tomato is red, and of an unripe tomato it is light green. The stalk may develop a slight ribbing that reaches the middle of the vegetable, but this does not affect cracking in any way. The peel is loose, glossy.

The pulp is juicy, tender, fleshy with little water content. Inside, from 2 to 4 chambers are formed with a small content of small seeds.

Tomatoes can be eaten fresh, canned and pickled. They are well suited for making tomato pastes, mashed potatoes, juices and sauces.

The variety has an unremarkable sweet and sour taste.

The Mongolian dwarf tomato belongs to the ultra-early varieties with a ripening period of 80 days. Fruiting in a culture is extended. Although the ovary is formed at the same time, the fruit ripens gradually. Harvesting continues from early summer to mid-autumn.

The culture is very fertile, many gardeners note that up to 10 kg can be removed from one bush, and from 16.3 to 17 kg from 1 m2.

The variety can be grown in seedlings and seedlings. The second method is suitable for the southern regions. Seeds are poured into the ground by 1-3 seeds in one hole and spilled with water. After the seedlings have 2-3 leaves, the ground is loosened, and weak bushes are removed. Further, the seedlings are simply looked after, and after 2 months it will be possible to harvest.

For regions with harsher climates, the seeds must be germinated first. To do this, in late March - early April, the seeds are soaked in water, and then treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

At this point, the seedling boxes are being prepared. Fertile soil mixed with fertilizers is poured into them. Holes or trenches with a depth of no more than 2 cm are formed. After sowing, the earth is abundantly spilled with water and covered with a film. Drawers are removed on the windowsill. The average room temperature should be +22 degrees.

After a week, the seeds will hatch, and the film can be removed. Seedlings are watered as needed, on average 1 time per week. After several strong leaves are formed at the stalk, a pick is made.

10 days before transplanting into the ground, all seedlings are taken out into the street or greenhouse for acclimatization. Planting occurs when the seedlings are 50-55 days old.

The selected area is dug up in the fall. In the spring, during the formation of holes, a mixture of superphosphate, ammonium sulfate and potassium salt can be poured onto the bottom. The day before planting, the site is spilled with hot water to warm up the earth.

After planting the seedlings, it is necessary to water everything, then repeat the procedure after 3 days.

Saplings should be planted in two rows in a checkerboard pattern so that they do not interfere with each other. The depth of the holes is 15 cm. The distance between the bushes is 60-80 cm. It is important to correctly direct the bush after it begins to slope to the ground so that the stems do not overlap.

In order for the yield to be at a height, and the plant does not hurt, it is necessary to observe some agrotechnical points.

• The irrigation regime should be normalized. On average, it is once every 5-7 days. In drier times, the number of days can be reduced to 3-5.

• Top dressing is carried out several times per season and is applied after watering strictly to the root. The first feeding is carried out 14 days after planting the seedlings in the ground. The second is during the period of fruit formation. The third is after 14 days. All fertilizers must be in liquid form. Most often used for feeding: potassium, phosphorus, ammonium nitrate, nitrogen, manure and wood ash.

• Since the stem of the variety spreads along the ground, it is necessary to timely think over a system for supporting the fruits so that they do not lie on the ground. Many gardeners place brushes on small planks or blocks. This is necessary so that insects and pests do not encroach on the crop.

• By the end of the season (in August), it is recommended to remove all the leaves.This helps to increase the lagging yield so that the fruits are fully ripe.

• After planting seedlings in the ground, in the presence of a temperature drop or frost, the stems are covered with a protective film.

It is worth dwelling on the most common crop pests.

• Slugs. Since the bush is creeping, for these pests the fruits are a tidbit. To fight slugs, you can use both chemicals ("Slime Eater", "Thunder" or "Meta") and folk remedies (a mixture of pepper, ash and salt). And also use mechanical barriers in the form of gravel or eggshells.

• The leaves most often suffer from aphids, they bend and curl. You can fight it with a solution of laundry soap.

• Spider mites appear in very dry and hot summers. To combat it, drugs with acaricides are used, such as Actellik or Fitoverm.