Why are tomato seedlings stretched out and what to do?

It takes several weeks to grow seedlings. In a greenhouse or open ground, mature plants with a powerful root system, a thick stem and developed leaves are planted. But sometimes it is not possible to bring the seedlings to such a state due to the fact that they are stretched and, as a result, become too thin. If plants are planted in this state, they may die or become too weak. Fruiting in this case will be late and poor. In order to bring the elongated seedlings to a normal state, or, in general, to prevent the occurrence of such an effect, it is necessary to find out the reasons for its origin. Depending on this, you need to take timely measures to remedy the situation.

Tomato seedlings stretch out and become too thin due to improper care. There may be several reasons for this state of seedlings.

1. Lack of light. After the seeds have germinated, light must be provided on them. If it is not enough, then from the first days the shoots will be long and thin. At the same time, the root system of such seedlings develops extremely slowly.

2. Poor adherence to temperature conditions. For normal development, tomato seedlings need a warm indoor climate. In both cold and hot rooms, the seedlings become frail.

3. Improper watering. In excessively moist soil, tomatoes stretch out strongly.

4. Excessively snug fit. If the seeds are planted close to each other, they will not have enough nutrition. That is why the resulting seedlings will be tall and thin.

5. Lack or excess of feeding. Many gardeners feed seedlings to improve their condition. With an excessive or insufficient introduction of fertilizers (excess nitrogen), an intensive growth of shoots occurs. At the same time, the plants do not have enough potassium, and their stems become thin.

In order to enable the seedlings to grow stronger, as well as to slow down too rapid growth, it is necessary to perform several manipulations. They consist in improving the living conditions of the seedlings.

In order to correct the condition of the seedlings, it is necessary to take control of the temperature in the room where they are located. As already mentioned, at an excessively high air temperature, plants will actively stretch upward. To slow down growth, it is necessary to lower the air temperature to + 16 ° C.

One important point should be taken into account here - seedlings need a warm microclimate only in the first few weeks of life. After a dive, too warm air is completely useless. So, initially the temperature regime should be in the range of + 20 ... 22 ° С. It must be gradually lowered, first to + 19 ° C.

Initially, seedlings of tomatoes (and any other plants) should be placed in a well-lit place. The ideal location is on the southern windowsill. But if for some reason it is impossible to do this, it is necessary to arrange additional lighting. So, if possible, the elongated seedlings can be rearranged on the glazed balcony. There is definitely more light there.

The second solution to the problem is to purchase and install special phytolamps. These can be purchased at hardware stores or seed stores. Phytolamps must be installed so that they are about 6 cm from the tops of the plants. If the lamps are powerful enough, then the seedlings can be left even on the north window.

If the seedlings are elongated, growth must be stopped immediately. This can be easily done at home. The first thing to do is to introduce top dressing. In this case, it is better to refuse nitrogen-containing fertilizers, since it is nitrogen that is a powerful growth stimulant. The seedlings make minerals such as potassium and phosphorus powerful. It is they who must be introduced into the ground. You can feed for the thickness of the trunk with the help of ash (1 tablespoon per 200 ml of water).

It is possible to carry out the treatment with known growth stimulants. For tomato seedlings, the "Athlete" product is well suited. You need to process it two times:

1. with regrowth of the fourth leaflet;

2. a second time two weeks after the first treatment.

Of course, the growth of seedlings is directly dependent on watering. This clause also has certain rules. Initially, the seeds and the first shoots are watered with warm water once a week. Then watering should be increased up to 2-3 times a week. It should be watered with warm water, which must first be defended in a container. It is noteworthy that watering with cold water will first lead to rotting of the root system, and then the entire plant.

With rare watering, the seedlings will dry out and be flabby. Frequent watering is just as destructive. In general, the easiest way to determine the need for watering is to focus on the state of the earthen coma. If the soil is visually and to the touch wet, and the leaves look drooping, then in no case should the seedlings be watered.

If the ground is dry, then this is also not the norm. In this state, the root system is unable to develop and function normally. Therefore, the whole plant will suffer. If the soil is too dry, it should be moistened immediately.

After germination, seedlings will need a lot of light and nutrition for further development. That is why it is necessary to make a pick in a timely manner. In simple words, it is required to plant the plants from a common container in separate pots or jars.

This process is simple, but you need to approach it responsibly, since the future fate of the seedlings depends on the quality. You need to prepare:

• pots (you can use special peat pots);

• nutritious soil;

• scissors;

• settled water, which is intended for irrigation.

Prepared containers must be half filled with nutrient soil. From the total container, you need to carefully remove the plants one at a time. If necessary, using scissors, you can shorten the root system. Each seedling must be planted in a separate pot with soil, sprinkled with earth at the root and watered. Depth into the soil should not exceed 1.5 cm.

You can dive seedlings once, and only then plant them in a greenhouse or open ground. But experienced gardeners prefer not to save time and make multiple picks. This pick is done in several stages.

1. When the first true leaves appear, it is necessary to make the first pick.

2. When the first two pairs of true leaves appear, it is necessary to dive the seedlings for the first time. In this case, deepening should be done up to the cotyledonous leaves.

3. The third time, the procedure must be repeated after 3 weeks.In this case, deepening into the ground is made up to the first true leaves.

Multiple picking gives a guarantee of the development of a strong root system. And also the formation of shoots occurs.

If all the methods have been tried, but the seedlings are still stretched out, you should not be upset. Such seedlings can also be planted in a greenhouse or open ground, only in this case a number of conditions will need to be observed.

The elongated seedlings are transferred to open ground or a greenhouse at a certain time.

1. If the planting is carried out in greenhouse soil, then it is best to do this in the time interval from May 1 to May 15.

2. When transplanting into a greenhouse, you need to carry out the procedure a little later - from about the middle to the end of May.

3. Elongated seedlings are transferred to open ground already in June - from 5 to 20 (it can be a little earlier, if weather conditions permit).

In order for the elongated seedlings to grow a little stronger, they must be tempered. A few days before the expected disembarkation, they need to be taken out into the street. For the first time, no more than 3 hours. Over time, exposure to fresh air is gradually increased to 7-8 hours. If the seedlings are on the balcony, it is not necessary to take them outside. It is enough to open the balcony windows for the indicated time to harden the seedlings.

2 days before transferring the seedlings to the greenhouse or open ground, the lower leaves must be removed from it. This should be done carefully, especially if the plants have thin trunks.

When the seedlings have passed all the necessary preparatory measures, they can be transferred to the selected area of ​​the soil. You need to prepare pits, warm water for irrigation and transplant seedlings.

There are a lot of methods for stopping the excessive growth of seedlings, but it is much easier to carry out high-quality preventive measures than to deal with the consequences of improper care later. There are a number of measures that can be taken not only to prevent the pulling out of seedlings, but also to keep them in good condition. The most important factor, from which in no case can you deviate, is the implementation of the correct care and the observance of optimal growing conditions.

1. Initially (even before the first shoots), it is necessary to provide sufficient lighting. If the window sill is narrow, or located on the north side, natural light will not be enough. In the morning and evening, as well as in cloudy weather, it is recommended to use phytolamps. The duration of daylight hours in natural conditions is 12-15 hours. It should not be forgotten that seedlings also require the dark time of the day, so you should not leave the phytolamps on all night, as this can also cause problems with the seedlings. If you don't want to use phytolamps, then homemade reflective strips can be made from foil or insulation.

2. The irrigation regime should be monitored. It is necessary to monitor the temperature of the water used for this purpose. The optimum temperature is + 20 ° C. It must have a set of important characteristics: soft, settled, clean. Before the first shoots appear, watering should be carried out using a spray bottle. Then you can use a syringe so as not to harm the young seedlings. Controlling soil moisture is best done visually or by touch. If the topsoil is already dry enough, then it's time for the next watering.

3. It is necessary to maintain the optimum room temperature. Ideally, daytime and nighttime temperatures should be different. The air is warmer during the day, and a few degrees colder at night.

4. Sowing dates must be observed. In most cases, they are clearly indicated on the seed packages. Tomatoes (depending on the variety) should be sown in late February or early March.

5. When sowing, you need to adhere to a distance between seeds of 2-3 cm. Too frequent shoots in the future will be much more difficult to dive. In addition, the seedlings will not have enough nutrition, and this is the first step to pulling.

6. It is important to observe the timing of the pick. It is not recommended to plant too small, as well as overgrown seedlings.

7. If you plan to introduce top dressing, then this must be done correctly, avoiding the use of nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

If the seedlings have begun to stretch, then this phenomenon must be dealt with at the earliest stage. When the seedlings are already overgrown, it will be quite difficult to adjust them. When this happened, and the situation is difficult to correct, it is necessary to plant seedlings in this state. But even here you need to strictly follow the required rules. Only in this case, the elongated seedlings will be able to grow stronger in the soil, develop correctly, and in the future give a good harvest of tomatoes.