Warm beds in the greenhouse: step by step production

Winter is a dull time for the hobby gardener. He counts the days until the long-awaited time for cultivating the land and planting vegetables and fruits. But there is a way to reduce the waiting time for the planting season - this is the arrangement of warm beds in your greenhouse, which can bring the timing of your favorite activity closer.

Warm beds are a simple structure that maintains heat in the root layer of the soil. Thanks to this, plants develop and bear fruit faster than in ordinary soil. And the availability of materials and the ease of making such beds allow any gardener to use this method.

If we are talking about greenhouses, in which, according to the logic of things, it should be warm anyway, why equip these structures there. In the spring, the soil warms up rather slowly. And the optimum temperature for planting seedlings is reached only by mid-spring. If the soil is already warmed up, then planting can be done much earlier, already at the very beginning of spring. At the same time, plants feel comfortable, take root and develop faster. The heat from the beds also warms up the air in the greenhouses, the optimum temperature is reached, a suitable microclimate is created for the healthy growth and development of seedlings.

Warm beds have many advantages over planting plants in the ground.

• relatively early planting of seedlings, so you can get a harvest by the beginning of summer;
• more rare dressings;
• long fruiting period;
• less weeds;
• resistance to unexpected frosts;
• the beauty of the design of the garden and the convenience of caring for the plants.

The choice of materials for creating warm beds is quite large. If we are talking about the design of the box, then everything is limited only by the imagination of an amateur gardener. There is an opportunity not even to spend money on materials, but just look into the pantry or shed, there are often stored materials that will be useful for making the box. Sideboards can be made from wood, plastic panels, metal, polycarbonate, slate and even plastic bottles. The most popular are several options.

• Bumpers made of wood. If the tree is not treated with anything, then such a bed will not last long, only a couple of years. Therefore, it is better to treat the wood with an antiseptic in several layers.
• Brick sides. Made of bricks, they are very durable, comfortable and will last for many years. But we must not forget that the process of creating a brick fence is quite laborious and requires at least basic knowledge of masonry.
• Slate sides. Slate is a fairly common building material since Soviet times. With it, you can also organize the sides for a warm bed. But there is an opinion that the chipped parts of the slate emit substances harmful to health. This should be taken into account, and try to use only whole sheets.

There are three main types of warm beds.

• Electric warm beds. They are based on an electric heating cable or tape that is laid on the bottom of the garden bed. You can also install a thermostat that will maintain the optimum temperature for warming up the soil. This is a relatively new method for heating the soil, but many summer residents have already begun to use it. With this method, it is important to take into account the additional costs of electricity, especially during the cold weather, when heating should be around the clock, and for the purchase of the necessary materials. If electricity is quite expensive in the region of residence, then it is better to prefer another method.
• Warm water beds. They are the same idea as electric ones, but pipes, preferably metal, laid on the bottom of the bed serve as a heating element. This type of heating will not only support the heating of the earth, but also provide additional root moisture for plants. It will be necessary to additionally install a stove for heating water and a pump for its circulation.

• Organic warm beds. For the manufacture of such beds, there is even no need to spend money. Only biological elements can be used for heating: small wood, leaves, compost, dry grass and even cleaning vegetables and fruits. This is the most economical and easiest way to implement. Do not think that such beds are short-lived. If you form them correctly, then they will last at least five years. And the recycled organic matter will turn into the perfect nutrient soil for new beds.

Among amateur gardeners, the most common method is biological. It is less labor intensive, simple to implement, durable and economical. With its help, you can also organize spectacular flower beds, which will become the pride of your personal plot from early spring to late autumn.

All three types of warm beds are made according to the general principle. The first step is to draw a diagram of your greenhouse and decide where the beds will be located. Based on the area of ​​the greenhouse, the length and width of the ridge can be calculated for a more compact arrangement. Typically, structures are placed along the walls of the greenhouse, leaving a through passage in the middle. You can also form them in the form of the letter "P", or in three rows, if the area of ​​the greenhouse allows.

Electric heating and heating using pipes with water requires additional calculations to purchase the necessary materials. Based on the length and number of beds, it is necessary to calculate how many pipes and electrical wires are needed.

After determining the location of the warm beds, you should calculate the amount of materials required, and then proceed directly to their manufacture. It is necessary to dig a trench 40–70 cm deep. Lay the bottom with heat-insulating material (expanded polystyrene, polystyrene foam and even ordinary plastic bottles), which will prevent heat loss deep into the ground. Then fill in a layer of sand 3-5 cm thick. Put a fine metal mesh on it, which will protect it from rodents. Then the main heating element is laid (electric cable, water pipes or organic components).

Above, you need to create another sand air cushion, and finally, form a layer of fertile soil in which the plants will be planted. It should not be too thick, otherwise good heating will not be ensured. If the production takes place before winter, it is better if the warm beds are covered with film material. This will keep the soil from freezing during the cold winter.

It is also necessary to take into account the general norms for the size of the beds.

• The most optimal height is considered to be 30–40 cm. This is the optimum convenient level for weeding and watering.
• It is better to choose the width up to 1.2 m.If the beds are wider, then caring for the plants will be extremely inconvenient.
• The width of the passage between the beds should not be less than 0.6 m.

Each gardener has the right to choose the type of warm garden bed that suits him best, based on his finances, interests and principles. Therefore, it will be advisable to describe each structure in more detail for its easy DIY manufacture.

This type is convenient due to the ability to independently set the temperature and heating mode. To do this, you just need to additionally install and configure the thermostat. To equip a warm bed using a heating cable, you need to have some basic knowledge of electricity.

They are classified into two types: resistive and self-regulating.

• Resistive ones differ in that they are not automated; soil heating can be uneven. They are cheaper in cost, but electricity costs are more expensive.
• Self-regulating ones have a thermostat with which you can set the heating temperature and mode. They are more expensive than resistive ones, but they come out cheaper on the farm, since they consume less electricity.

You should consider the step by step arrangement of warm beds using a heating cable.

• The first step is to dig a trench 40–60 cm deep and 50 cm wide. The length will depend on the size of the greenhouse. It is necessary to compact the soil on the sides and at the bottom of the trench.
• Further, the bottom is covered with a heat-insulating coating that prevents heat loss. Styrofoam is ideal.
• A layer of sand with a thickness of about 5 cm is formed on top, it will perform drainage functions.
• Then you need to lay a fine metal mesh. A cable will be attached to it, and it will also protect against the penetration of rodents to the roots of plants.
• A heating cable is attached to the mesh; it is best to lay it with a snake in increments of about 15 cm, starting from the thermostat.

• Further, the sand cushion is formed again. It must be well crushed and spilled with water.
• The next step is the safety net. It can be metal or plastic. Its role is to protect the cable from mechanical damage during planting and caring for plants.
• The final layer is a layer of fertile soil with a thickness of at least 30–40 cm. Plant seedlings will be planted directly into it.
• It is better to place the thermostat sensor in a corrugated pipe, and the thermostat itself in a moisture-resistant box, and place it at a level of 1 m above the ground level.

A warm bed with a heating cable is ready! Plants can be planted in it as early as March. The main time of its work can be considered spring until May, inclusively, when warm weather has not yet settled and night frosts are possible. Plants during this period just need constant warmth. Also, keeping warm may be necessary in the fall to extend the harvest period.

In this type, heating takes place using pipes in which hot water is located. It is better to use metal pipes, as they give off more heat than plastic ones. It is also more advisable to choose pipes of a smaller diameter and place them evenly in the trench for a more complete heating of the soil. To heat water, you can use a gas or electric boiler, cast iron or stone wood-fired stoves. For them, it is necessary to prepare a stone or brick foundation, as well as equip a chimney. Be sure not to forget about installing a water pump. It will ensure continuous circulation of water in the heating pipe system.

The procedure for forming a warm water bed is almost identical to the previous one:

• a trench is dug about half a meter deep;
• insulating material (for example, foam) is laid down;
• then an air cushion is created from a layer of sand 5 cm thick, it is well crushed and spilled with water;
• then the heating element itself is laid, in this case pipes through which warm water will flow;
• you can also use a mesh as the next layer, which will protect against damage and penetration of rodents;
• completes the bed with a layer of fertile soil for planting plants.

It is worth considering that with this method of equipping warm beds, not only the soil will warm up, but also the air in the greenhouse. Thus, the plants are provided with doubly comfortable conditions.

This is the simplest, cheapest and most common way of arranging warm beds. There is no need to purchase expensive materials, hire people who can correctly install everything, pay additional costs for electricity or water. In this case, everything is much simpler. Only organic waste is needed, which is available at each site, you can also use waste from animal husbandry.

There are four subspecies of organic warm beds:

• raised;
• in-depth;
• warm beds, hills;
• combined.

Each subspecies has its own characteristics.

To make deep warm beds, you should follow these steps:

• a sufficiently deep trench is dug under them, its edges should be flush with the ground level in the greenhouse;
• a layer of sand can be poured on the bottom, which will play the role of drainage;
• be sure to lay a fine mesh, rodent protection;
• the next layer is empty plastic bottles with tightly screwed caps. They represent a heat-insulating layer;
• the side walls of the trench can be covered with several layers of thick plastic wrap or cardboard to keep warm;

• it is necessary to put large wood, branches on the bottles;
• then comes a layer of newspaper or paper;
• then a layer of small wood waste is laid;
• a layer of chopped tops, weeds is made;
• the next layer of leaves and grass;
• a fertile soil layer to which compost can be added.

Raised warm beds also differ in manufacturing technology. There is no need to dig a trench under them. They are formed in a box, which is pre-fabricated from wood, slate or plastic panels. It is worth considering that boxes made of wood must be treated with an antiseptic solution in several layers in order to extend their service life.

The main manufacturing steps include:

• the bottom and walls of the box can be covered with thick plastic wrap. You can fix it from the outside either with a household stapler, or nail it with slats along the perimeter of the box;
• large wood waste is laid out on the bottom, then newspaper and cardboard;
• the next layer consists of weeds, peelings of vegetables and fruits;
• then foliage, tops, grass are used;
• the final layer consists of fertile soil;
• the box is installed in a previously prepared place in the greenhouse;
• it is better if the opposite long walls of the box are connected by transverse beams, which will prevent the structure from creeping under soil pressure.

Warm garden beds are the easiest option to carry out, as they involve the least labor costs. There is no need to dig a deep trench or make a special box.

The manufacturing process is as follows:

• the first step is to mark the area in the greenhouse under the bed-hill;
• a shallow trench should be dug, about a shovel bayonet deep;
• fill the trench with the necessary organic material in the same sequence as in the previous subspecies, but leaving a little empty space from the edges of the trench;
• fill the voids with fertile soil;
• also cover the top and side parts with fertile soil;
• the bed will turn out to be wide enough (more than one meter), therefore, it is undesirable to place it close to the walls of the greenhouse.

Combined warm beds combine a raised and a deep warm bed.

The manufacturing process includes the following stages:

• a not too deep trench is dug;
• a heat-insulating material, a fine mesh is placed on the bottom;
• large wood waste is placed, then newspapers or cardboard;
• a layer of small shavings, household organic waste is laid, then grass and compost;
• a layer of fertile soil;
• a box is installed on the surface, which will resist the creeping of the soil.

Among all the methods of organizing warm beds, each gardener selects the most optimal option for himself in accordance with climatic conditions and the type of soil. These conditions should have a greater influence on the way of organizing a warm bed. In humid, swampy soil conditions, it is recommended to build raised, warm beds. They protect the root system of plants from excessive moisture and disease. In normal warm climates, it is better to build deep warm beds due to the fact that there is no need to protect the roots of plants from excessive moisture. In cold conditions, it is better to use combined warm beds.

In the coldest months, when the greenhouses are not yet warmed up by hot sunlight, it is recommended to additionally use electric heaters, they will maintain a comfortable temperature for plants above ground level. Also in country greenhouses, ultraviolet heaters are used.

If you look at the reviews of the owners of warm beds, you can see a really rosy picture. A large number of authors argue that growing seedlings in warm beds, and even in greenhouses, only has the best effect on the yield. Those who use organic warm beds claim that in any climatic conditions, the yield increases several times. They note the simplicity of the formation of such beds, the possibility of early planting of seedlings and, accordingly, an earlier harvest. Also, many point to the efficiency and durability of this method. On any site there are always ingredients for creating this type of beds. And even a woman is capable of building it with her own hands.

Owners of electric warm beds point to ease of installation, if you follow the instructions exactly, and the durability of such a structure. Of the minuses, they only single out the fact that such a system can not be found everywhere in stores. Some users order installation kits online. An increased yield, early ripening of fruits and complete automation of this method are noted if a thermostat is installed.

Many gardeners prefer the water-based way of heating their beds. Of the advantages, in addition to high yields and early ripening, the possibility of self-assembly of this type of heating is distinguished. Any man is able to install pipes of the required size and diameter, connect a water pump and put a stove for heating water. In addition, this method, as noted by the authors, is more economical than electrically heated beds.

So that the process of growing plants in this way in greenhouses brings only good results, you can use the following helpful tips.

• When making an organic bed, do not use affected materials, as this can lead to infection, disease and death of plants.
• Do not plant perennial weeds, as they can germinate.
• To accelerate the decay processes, it would be nice to use biologically active preparations.
• After making the bed, you need to spill it with plenty of water.
• Biologically warm beds can last from 5 to 8 years until the components are completely decomposed. In the future, fertile soil can be used to fill such a bed.
• In the first year of use, warm beds contain the highest concentration of nutrients, so at this time it is better to plant capricious and demanding types of plants, such as cucumbers, cabbage, tomatoes, peppers. In subsequent years, the amount of nutrients decreases, so it is more advisable to plant less demanding, unpretentious crops. For example, greens, salads, peas.

• Tall beds require abundant and frequent watering when compared to in-depth options.
• It is necessary to constantly monitor the temperature in the greenhouse to avoid overheating of the plants. It is also advisable to ventilate the greenhouse to improve air circulation in it.
• The optimum temperature for plants in the greenhouse is from +17 to +25 degrees. It is necessary to maintain it throughout the entire process of plant growth and fruiting.
• Electric warm beds require more watering, as they dry out the soil faster, so it is necessary to constantly monitor the moisture content of the soil.
• Heated beds from water pipes get more root moisture due to condensation accumulating on the pipes. They should not be poured in order not to cause rot of the plant root system.
• If the beds are intended for sowing seeds, you can equip a greenhouse by covering them with foil until shoots form. As soon as they get stronger, you can remove the film.

If we are talking about organic warm beds, then gardeners may have a question, when is the best time to build them. This is where opinions differ. Someone is doing this in the spring, just before planting seedlings. Someone bets on the future and is engaged in equipping the beds in the fall.

Experts see some advantages in this.

• In autumn, a large amount of organic waste accumulates on personal plots. There is no need to burn or dispose of foliage, tops, dry branches and grass. They are ideal for laying in warm beds.
• By spring, all the biomaterial placed inside will begin to rot and form an excellent heating for newly planted plants. In addition, the bed will sag, thicken, and the seedlings will sit firmly in the holes.

Regardless of climatic conditions, soil properties and illumination, the equipment of warm beds in greenhouses will help to improve, accelerate and extend the yield of plants. Moreover, there are several options for arranging such structures and there is plenty to choose from. Nowadays, gardeners widely use this technology, which brings a healthy, rich harvest from year to year.

For information on how to properly make warm beds in a greenhouse, see the next video.