Features of the reproduction of streptocarpus

Streptocarpus (Latin Streptocarpus) is a beautiful indoor flower and, despite its tropical origin, is perfectly adapted for growing at home. Due to its high decorative properties and unpretentious care, the plant is very popular, which is why the issue of its reproduction is relevant for many gardeners.

Before proceeding with the reproduction of streptocarpus, it is necessary to properly prepare the soil. You can buy it at a flower shop or make your own. The main requirements for the substrate are its looseness and air permeability. In addition, it should be moderately nutritious and retain moisture well.

In the nutrient soil, the young sprout will root better, and the seeds will give faster germination. As a result, the reproduction process is much faster, and young flowers grow strong and healthy.

If there is no opportunity to purchase a ready-made soil mixture, then you can make a nutritious substrate yourself. For streptocarpus, a mixture of peat and river sand, taken in equal proportions, or a composition of soil for violets, perlite and vermiculite, also mixed in equal parts, is well suited.

After the substrate is ready, fine mechanical debris with plant residues is removed from it, and calcined in the oven.

Disinfection is carried out for 20 minutes at a temperature of 200 degrees. If it is not possible to use the oven, then the soil is placed in a perforated pot, spilled with boiling water and cooled. The prepared soil is laid out in containers, the size of which is determined by the reproduction method. In practice, streptocarpus is propagated by cuttings, dividing the bush and seeds.

Reproduction of streptocarpus using cuttings is a rather lengthy and painstaking procedure. And if, for example, in Saintpaulia it is enough to cut off a small shoot, place it in water and after a while it will give roots, then with streptocarpus everything is much more complicated. In this case, the grafting process is as follows: first, a large and healthy leaf is selected and carefully cut, then it is laid out on the table and the central vein is cut out with a sharp knife.

Further, both halves of the leaf are cut, leaving on each of them six longitudinal veins 5 cm long, and buried with the cut side into the ground by 1-2 cm.In order to root the fragments faster, they are pretreated with growth enhancers, for example, "Kornevin" or "Radifarm"... In one container, 2-3 leaves are planted in parallel, which is why the method was called "toaster".

In most cases, the rooting process takes quite a long time, and sometimes it takes up to two months. In this case, much depends not on the efforts of the grower, but on the chemical composition of the soil. So, a soil mixture with a high content of nitrogen and copper significantly slows down the formation of roots. Therefore, the land for planting must be used fresh, in which no plants have grown before.

After the cutting is planted in the ground, a homemade mini-greenhouse is erected over it, using rigid wire and plastic wrap for this. Then the structure is moved to a warm and bright place, while providing diffused lighting.

Water the cuttings once a week, evenly distributing the liquid along the edges of the pot. This allows the soil to be moistened evenly without causing excessive moisture to the cuttings. The main problem with greenhouse rooting of streptocarpus is the risk of reproduction of harmful bacteria, for which a warm and humid environment is an ideal place to live. Therefore, in order to prevent their appearance, the cutting is sprayed weekly with a bactericidal solution.

After one and a half to two months, a baby is formed on each cuttings, presented in the form of a tiny nodule with leaves.

After 3-4 months, when the leaves reach 2 centimeters in length, the bush is transplanted into a separate pot with a volume of 150-200 ml. After rooting, the young shoot begins to grow rapidly, and after the first flowering it can be transplanted into a larger pot.

How streptocarpus reproduces by a leaf, see below.

This breeding method is considered the fastest and most productive. The division is performed during the transplantation of an adult plant, when the mother has grown greatly and has ceased to fit in the pot.

The planting procedure in this case solves two problems at once, allowing you to get a new flower and update the parent plant. The fact is that the overgrown streptocarpus begins to bloom less often, and its inflorescences become much smaller. This is due to the fact that the flower spends a lot of energy on the growth and development of the green mass, and almost no energy remains for the formation of buds.

Reproduction of streptocarpus by dividing the bush is as follows: the substrate is moistened, and a thin wooden stick is separated from the walls of the pot. Then the plant is carefully removed, and the root system is freed from the soil substrate. Then, with a sharp disinfected knife or blade, divide the bush together with the root into 2-4 parts.

The main condition for division is the presence of at least two growth points on each of the parts. Then all the cuts are treated with crushed charcoal or activated carbon and start preparing a new pot.

To do this, 2 cm of drainage and the same amount of nutrient substrate are placed on the bottom of the container, after which the plant is placed and the missing soil is added. The bottom of the pot must have a perforation to ensure the free outflow of excess liquid.

It is necessary to plant shoots up to the root collar - exactly to the depth at which the plant was in the ground, being part of a bush. In this case, the roots must be well covered with earth, without leaving voids in the pot. Next, the plant is watered with warm water along the walls of the pot and removed to a bright, warm place. Rooting takes place very quickly, and soon the bushes begin to bloom.

How streptocarpus reproduces by division, see below.

This method is very long and labor-intensive, and does not always guarantee the preservation of varietal maternal traits. For the most part, this applies to self-harvested hybrid seeds, which makes it much safer to purchase seed from the store.

Winter sowing is also not contraindicated, however, in this case it will be necessary to connect artificial lighting. The substrate for planting seeds is prepared from peat, perlite and vermiculite, taken in equal parts, and shallow plastic containers are used as a container.

The seeds of streptocarpus are very small, which is why they are mixed with dry sand and evenly distributed over the surface of the substrate.If the seed was purchased in a store, and has a glazed coating, then you do not need to mix it with sand.

Next, the planting is sprayed from a spray bottle with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, after which the lid is closed and placed in a warm, bright place. If the temperature inside the container does not drop below 22 degrees, and the substrate is kept moist, then the first shoots will appear in 14 days.

After the appearance of two leaves, the sprouts are dived into 100-gram glasses, using for this a mixture of leaf humus, peat, perlite and sphagnum moss, taken in a ratio of 2: 3: 1: 1. As soon as the leaves on the shoots grow up to 2-3 cm, they are transplanted into separate pots with a diameter of 7 cm. When creating comfortable conditions and following all the rules of care, streptocarpus blooms after 6-8 months.

No matter how a new plant is obtained, after transplanting to a permanent place, it needs close attention from the florist.

Caring for young streptocarpus includes watering and feeding the plants, as well as creating comfortable conditions of temperature, lighting and humidity.

• Streptocarpus is a light-loving plant and requires long daylight hours. However, in order to avoid burns, sunlight must be diffused using gauze or tulle curtains.
• Young streptocarpus must be protected from drafts, as they can cause his illness, and, possibly, death. The optimal temperature for a flower will be 20-24 degrees, since in a colder room the flower grows poorly and does not develop.
• It is advisable to water the plants with soft, settled water at room temperature. This should be done closer to the walls of the pot, thus protecting the roots from excessive moisture.
• Fertilization of streptocarpus is carried out twice a month throughout the growing season - from April to September. You can feed the plant with any mineral complexes intended for flowering species.