Do-it-yourself Gorenje washing machine repair

Modern washing machines have been renowned for their reliability and trouble-free operation for many years. However, even they have their own service life, after which various breakdowns are inevitable. In today's article, we will look at the main malfunctions of Gorenje washing machines and find out how to fix them.

Washing machines of the described brand are very popular and in demand on the home appliance market. How to find out what kind of malfunctions these household appliances have and how to fix them with your own hands? Thanks to open data from leading service centers throughout Russia, it is possible to identify the most common malfunctions associated with washing machines of a particular manufacturer.

• The most common malfunction is the failure of the drain pump. Perhaps this is the weakest point in the design of the machine. There can be many reasons for this, including clogging with dirt, winding threads and hair on the impeller shaft that slipped through the dirt filter. The solution to this problem is to replace the pump.

• The second most common problem is the problem of a burned out heating element. There is no other way, except for replacing the defective part with a new one. The reason for this is the scale build up on the heating element, which gradually destroys it.

• The next problem is water drain... If it is intact and just clogged, then it makes sense to rinse it and install it back, but most often it bursts - you cannot do without replacing it. This is due to the rubber being too thin.

• The last on our list of problems will be wear of the engine brushes. They have their own resource, and when it comes to an end, you need to replace the part. These elements can be counted among the consumables in the construction of the Gorenje washing machine.

Early signs of malfunction can be noticed during washing. It can be an extraneous sound, slow drainage, water flooding, and much more. The problem is that none of the owners sits next to the machine and does not tirelessly follow its work. Most often it is purchased in order to simply "throw" things and go about their business, and when the malfunction manifests itself, you have to take on repairs.

Gorenje engineers took this moment into account and equipped their products with the desired function. Washing machines of the described brand are equipped with self-diagnosis system. It allows you to identify malfunctions at the initial stages and take measures in advance to eliminate them. To run such a program, you must do the following:

• put the rotary switch on the "0" position;
• then you need to hold down the 2 extreme right buttons and hold them a little in the clamped position;
• now turn the switch 1 click clockwise;
• release the pressed buttons after 5 seconds.

The indicator of a successful start of the self-test will be ignition and extinguishing of all bulbs on the dashboard. Then, one by one, we begin to check the serviceability of all equipment according to these instructions. The electronic door lock is checked first:

• in self-diagnosis mode, you need to open the door for 10 seconds;
• after the expiration of this time, close it;
• when this unit is operational, all the lights on the panel will light up in confirmation of this, otherwise the error code "F2" will be displayed.

Then the NTC meter is checked:

• within 2 seconds, the monitoring device will measure the resistance of the sensor;
• in the case when the resistance readings are satisfactory, all the lights on the panel will go out, otherwise the error “F2” will appear.

Water supply to the detergent hopper:

• 5 sec. assigned to check water heating;
• 10 sec. spent on pre-wash;
• 10 sec. goes to check the main washing mode;
• the pre-wash mode and the main cycle are carried out until the tank is filled with water;
• if all systems are working properly, all indicators will light up, otherwise the error code “F3” will appear.

Checking the drum for rotation:

• the engine starts and turns in one direction for 15 seconds;
• 5 sec. pauses and starts in the opposite direction, water heating turns on for a few seconds;
• if everything is working properly, then the light indicators will go out, and if something went wrong, the error indicator “F4” or “F5” will appear.

Checking the performance of the spin program:

• drum for 30 sec. rotates with a gradual increase in speed from 500 rpm. up to their maximum speed, possible on a particular model;
• if the program is working correctly, the indicators will remain lit in their original position.

Draining the water from the tank:

• the pump turns on for 10 seconds, during a test drain, the water level will drop slightly;
• if the drain is working, then all the backlights will be on, if it does not drain the water, the code "F7" will be displayed.

Checking the last spin and drain program:

• the pump and drum rotation are simultaneously turned on in the range from 100 to maximum revolutions;
• if everything went right, then all the indicators will go out, and if the maximum speed is not reached or the program does not spin, then the “F7” code will light up.

The range of washing machines from this manufacturer is quite diverse and has many interesting models, among which you can even find specimens with water tanks in case of frequent outages. But no matter what technical innovations the products of the described brand have, it has weaknesses that we talked about earlier. Let's analyze them in more detail and find solutions.

The drain pump often fails, the reason for this is not always a factory defect, but, most likely, destructive operating conditions. Local water does not meet European standards and damages all rubber and metal connections and mechanisms. Salt impurities gradually destroy the rubber pipes and the oil seal. Replacing the pump yourself is not difficult and does not require a special tool.

The following instructions will help you with this:

• to start repair work, it is obligatory disconnect the washing machine from all communications (electricity, water, sewerage);
• pull out the detergent drawer and drain all the water, then put it back in place;
• put the typewriter on its side - this will allow you to get close to the pump with the least dismantling work;
• washing machines of other brands have an open bottom, in the case of the described brand, all devices are equipped with a plate designed to cover the bottom, but by unscrewing a few screws, we will get good access to the units of interest;
• when you get to the drain pump, do not rush to remove it - first, check it for operability, for this take a multimeter, set the resistance measurement mode on it, then remove the terminal from the pump and attach the probes to the pump connectors;
• readings of 160 Ohm indicate the complete health of the unit, and if there is no indication, the pump must be replaced;
• for dismantling the drain pump we need to unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the rubber pipe, which is held with a clamp;
• pump installation occurs in reverse order.

The washing machines of this manufacturer have another specific malfunction - a leak in the drain pipe. At first glance, this is a fairly strong part, but double bending, as practice has shown, turned out to be an unsuccessful technical solution. There are several more reasons for leaks:

• the quality of the material does not correspond to the parameters of water;
• factory defect - this leads to a large number of microcracks over the entire surface of the part;
• puncture of the pipe with a foreign body;
• the use of aggressive descaling agents.

Not a single machine of the most expensive brand is insured against burnout of the heating element. The cause of this malfunction is:

• limescale, which slows down heat transfer, over time the heating element burns out;
• constant high-temperature washings (except for burnout from lime, the heater also has its own service life, and frequent washings in hot water accelerate its wear);
• power surges.

If the water stops heating, then it is necessary to check the heating element. Before you change it to a new one, you need to ring it, because it may turn out that it is working properly, and the reason for the lack of heating lies in something else. If the machine knocks out while the heating element is turned on, this means a short circuit in the heater. In order to get to it, you must:

• disconnect the machine from all communications;
• unscrew the back panel and find a heating element at the bottom of the tank;
• before starting the measurement, you need to disconnect all the wires from it and, setting the resistance measurement mode on the multimeter, attach the probes to the contacts;
• a healthy element will show a resistance of 10 to 30 ohms, and a faulty one will give 1.

If the heating element is serviceable, but there is no heating, then it is possible problems with the control module... When we realized that the heater had burned out, the only option to fix this problem would be to replace the heating element. Having prepared the spare parts, we begin the repair:

• unscrew the fastening nut and press the stud inside the tank;
• pry the element itself with a flat screwdriver and pull it out with a swinging motion;
• before starting to install a new one, be sure to clean the seat from dirt and scale;
• install the heating element back and tighten the fastening nut;
• connect the wires, carry out a test run and heating before complete assembly.

One of the frequent breakdowns on these machines is this is the erasure of contact brushes made of graphite... This malfunction can be determined by the falling power and the number of drum revolutions during spinning. Another indication of this problem will be the "F4" error. To check this, you will need:

• disconnect the machine from the mains;
• remove the back panel, the engine will immediately appear in front of us;
• remove the drive belt;
• disconnect the terminal from the motor;
• unscrew the engine mount and remove it;
• unscrew the brush assembly and inspect it: if the brushes are worn out and hardly reach the collector, then they must be replaced;
• screw in new brushes and reassemble everything in the reverse order.

Other breakdowns can also occur on Gorenje typewriters. For example, maybe break the door opener handle... In this case, it will not open. But take your time to break the glass. This problem can be solved at home without resorting to the help of a master.... For this we need:

• remove the top cover;
• visually find the lock and pry the tongue with a screwdriver, pull it in the opposite direction from the hatch;
• after that, you will need to replace the lever with a new one, and the door will work.

It so happens that no water is drawn into the machine. This may indicate a blockage in the hose or valve at the inlet to the machine. To fix such a problem, you need:

• turn off the water and unscrew the supply hose;
• rinse the hose and filter from contamination;
• collect everything back and start the wash.

To extend the life of your household appliance, do not neglect the operating rules written in the instructions. Do not overload the washing machine with laundry. Overloading the drum will not only not wash all the things loaded into it, but will also negatively affect the support bearings.

A half-empty drum is also undesirable for work due to the fact that a small amount of things gather in one lump during wringing and creates a strong imbalance on the drum. This leads to high vibration and excessive bearing stress, as well as wear on the shock absorbers. This greatly shortens their service life. Excess detergent is harmful to the device.... Remaining in the pipes and the tray, the detergent solidifies and clogs the water pipes. After a while, the water will stop passing through them - then a complete replacement of the hoses will be required.

For information on how to replace the heating element in the Gorenje washing machine, see the next video.