Repair of washing machines AEG

AEG washing machines have become in demand in the modern market due to the quality of their assembly. However, some external factors - voltage drops, hard water, and others - are often the main causes of malfunctions.

Even a layman can understand that the washing machine is not working properly. This can be determined by extraneous noise, unpleasant odor, and the quality of the wash.

The peculiarity of the presented technique is that it itself informs the user about the presence of an error in the work. From time to time you can see the code on the electronic board. It is he who indicates the problem.

In the next step, holding the "Start" and "Exit" buttons, turn on the CM, and turn the programmer wheel one program to the right side... Again hold the above buttons at the same time. After the described actions, an error code should appear on the electronic screen. Thus, the self-diagnosis test mode is started.

According to experts, there are several main reasons why the most frequent breakdowns in AEG equipment can occur. Among them:

• non-observance of operating rules;
• manufacturing defects;
• unseen circumstances;
• untimely maintenance of equipment.

As a result, the control module or heating element may burn out. Sometimes the breakdown is associated with hard water, which causes the accumulation of a large amount of scale on the moving parts of the machine and heating elements.

Blockages are also often the reason for the appearance of problems in the operation of equipment. You can remove the blockage without involving a specialist. You just need to get to the filter and drain hose to check them for cleanliness. The filter must be replaced and the drain cleaned.

The manufacturer, in his instructions for the washing machine, indicated in detail the meaning of this or that error code.

• E11 (C1). Appears on the screen when water stops flowing into the tank during the specified mode. Such a breakdown may be associated with a malfunction of the filler valve, sometimes there is not enough pressure.
• E21 (C3 and C4). Waste water remains in the tank for too long. Among the main reasons is a breakdown of the drain pump or blockage. Rarely, but it happens that this error code can be displayed due to a malfunction in the electronic module.
• E61 (C7). You can see such an error if the water temperature does not warm up to the required level. As an example, we can give a washing mode, in which the indicated temperature is 50 ° C. The equipment works, but the water remains cold. This happens when the heating element fails. It is not difficult to change it to a new one.
• E71 (C8)... This code indicates a problem with the temperature sensor. Usually the problem is with the resistance index. Sometimes the reason for the appearance of the code on the display is a malfunction of the heating element.
• E74. This breakdown is easily eliminated. It is caused by the wiring that has moved away or the temperature sensor has shifted.
• EC1. The filling valve is closed. The problem may be that the valve has broken. Most often, the appearance of the code is due to a malfunction of the control module.
• CF (T90)... The code always indicates a breakdown of the electronic controller. This can be the board itself or a module.

Error E61 appears only when the washing machine is started in self-diagnosis mode. During its normal operation, it is not displayed on the electronic display.

Regardless of the model, be it AEG LS60840L or AEG Lavamat, you can do the repair yourself or invite a specialist. It is sometimes easy to understand from the code which spare part needs to be replaced or repaired. Let's take a look at some troubleshooting.

If the heating element breaks down, you can replace it with your own hands. Removing it from the case is not that difficult. You will first need to remove the back panel to gain access to the heater. Experts advise to always buy original spare parts. The thing is that they have a large resource of work, ideally fit the existing model. The part can be ordered if it is not available in the store.

Check the element before replacing it. A multimeter is used for this purpose. When the node is operational, the resistance across the device is 30 ohms. Otherwise, it must be replaced. The heating element cannot be repaired. To remove it, unscrew the large bolt in the middle. Then the wires and sensors are disconnected.

You should be very careful with the temperature sensor. It can be easily damaged if pulled too hard. The tongue located on top will need to be easily pressed, then the element will easily slide out without unnecessary effort. The new heater is placed in place of the old one and all the work is carried out in the reverse order. Connect the wires, sensor and tighten the bolt.

Sometimes you may need to replace the temperature sensor yourself. If we talk about modern models, then in their design this role is played by a thermistor. It is attached to the heating element.

To replace this part, you need to prepare a set of tools:

• spanners;
• silicone based sealant;
• screwdrivers;
• lithol;
• spray can.

Some knowledge will be required from a person, as well as adherence to instructions. The procedure is as follows:

• remove the panel on the side and release the belt;
• remove the support;
• fasteners, if they are rusted, will be difficult to unscrew yourself;
• after the nut is unscrewed, the pulley can be removed;
• now you can remove the grounding;
• to unscrew the caliper, you need to take two screwdrivers, make an emphasis from them and, with some effort, remove the element;
• in some models, the oil seal is included, so the entire element is completely replaced;
• now they apply grease to the new caliper and put it in place, screwing it in opposite directions with screwdrivers.

The belt is replaced in the following order:

• the equipment is disconnected from the network;
• the back panel is removed;
• remove the drive panel;
• before replacing, it is worth inspecting the belt for breaks or other damage;
• excess water is drained from the bottom valve;
• the washing machine must be turned gently on its side;
• unscrew the fasteners that hold the motor, belt and coupling;
• a new part is installed behind the motor;
• everything is going in the reverse order.

It is not easy to get to the drain pump. It will take not only the preparation of the toolkit, but also a lot of patience.

The pump is located behind the front panel. The repair instructions are as follows:

• the cover on top will need to be disconnected;
• remove the front panel;
• the pump is freed from the bolts;
• take out the container for powder and conditioner;
• remove the collar from the cuff that is on the drum;
• disconnect the wiring from the pump by removing the front cover;
• having examined the pump, check the condition of the impeller;
• using a tester, measure the resistance of the motor winding;
• a new part is installed, and then all the elements are assembled in reverse order.

It is quite difficult to diagnose this breakdown, since it can be associated with other malfunctions and, in fact, be a consequence. Not everyone can repair the module on their own, a flashing is required.

If a person doubts their abilities, it is better to take the washing machine to a service center. And if the unit is still under warranty, even more so.

Any work with an electrician or mechanic must be carried out with the machine disconnected from the mains.

For the features of the repair of AEG washing machines, see below.