All about the propagation of currants by cuttings

Currant bushes are propagated in two ways: seed and vegetative. The first, as a rule, is chosen by the most experienced gardeners and mainly when breeding new varieties. The second option allows the cultivation of plants by dividing the bush, as well as by layering and cuttings. The latter method is laborious but popular. That is why it is worth learning everything about propagation by cuttings of such a common berry as currant.

It is no secret that gardeners do not always have a real opportunity to purchase the necessary seedlings. Against this background, cutting currants will be the most rational solution. The main advantages, albeit a laborious, but reliable method of breeding a berry plant, include:

• maximum efficiency;
• effective renewal of berries;
• the ability to grow any required amount of planting material;
• increased productivity;
• reduction of financial costs for reproduction to a minimum;
• preservation of all key qualities of the variety and, first of all, taste;
• rejuvenation of old plantings.

Of course, the most significant disadvantages of cuttings are worth mentioning. It is important to take into account that in the context of the survival rate of cuttings, the technique is inferior to dividing the bush and breeding by layering.

Black and red currants reproduce equally successfully vegetatively. However, in order to achieve maximum results, it is necessary to comply with the terms and basic rules for the implementation of all envisaged agrotechnical works.... One of the key points in this is the condition of the mother plant. The optimal age for such bushes is 10 years.

The grafting procedure is allowed to be carried out regardless of the season. In this case, the entire algorithm is divided into three main phases:

• preparation of planting material;
• rooting cuttings;
• planting seedlings in the ground.

It is important to take into account that the specifics of the implementation of each of the stages vary depending on the season. In particular, it is necessary to plant young growth, taking into account climatic factors in each specific region.

Naturally, for the successful reproduction of currants in the described way, it is necessary to know exactly how to harvest and properly store the cuttings. The options for obtaining and processing future planting material directly depend on the variety of cuttings. Modern gardeners, when breeding currants, use apical, green, as well as already stiffened segments. The most effective is the cultivation of plants with the latter. So, from one mother branch it is quite possible to cut up to 4 strong units.

Harvesting woody cuttings, as a rule, occurs in spring or autumn, and it is performed in parallel with pruning currant bushes. It is important that the thickness of the branch is 6–8 mm, and the buds on it are all strong and completely healthy. The following points should be considered:

• pruning should be done with an exceptionally well and correctly sharpened tool (pruning shears), which must be thoroughly disinfected before starting work;
• the upper cut should be straight and made 1 cm from the kidney, and the lower one is made oblique under the lower kidney;
• the green crown is removed;
• the branch itself must be cut into segments up to 25 cm long;
• remove all leaves to prevent moisture loss.

When harvesting green cuttings, it is important to choose only healthy bushes as mothers. It should be remembered that all disadvantages, including taste, will be transmitted to future generations during vegetative propagation. The optimal “supplier” of future planting material will be annual stems 4–5 mm thick. It is from such branches that flexible and non-fruiting processes are cut off. At the next stage, the workpiece is divided into 20 cm pieces, leaving 2-3 axillary buds and leaves for each.

If there is a lack of material, cutting cuttings from the tops would be a rational solution. But in such cases, it is important to take into account the relatively low survival rate. Apical cuttings are much more demanding on moisture, soil composition and quality, as well as other growing conditions. Harvesting of such shoots occurs in the spring and early summer. The very procedure for cutting flexible shoots for future cuttings is recommended to be carried out in the morning. The separated branches are cut into 10-15 cm segments with a sharp and disinfected secateurs.

The main indicator of good survival of future seedlings is, of course, the appearance of a developed root system. Today, cuttings are rooted in water, a special substrate, or in the ground. Regardless of the method chosen, the simplest and at the same time effective way to increase the survival rate and stimulate the rooting of cuttings is their timely treatment with special means. The main advantages of this approach are:

• ensuring a sufficient amount of nutrients in the places where the root system is formed;
• guaranteed formation of roots, including when propagating varieties that are difficult to root;
• increased root growth;
• the rapid development of a powerful system.

Stimulants used for germinating branches without roots are divided into natural and so-called industrial, that is, artificial. It is important to remember that the latter are used exclusively in accordance with the instructions supplied by the manufacturer. However, the popularity of natural remedies that are as environmentally friendly as possible, and, therefore, safe, is now actively growing. The list of the most effective includes:

• honey;
• potato tubers;
• aloe juice;
• baker's yeast;
• water after germination of willow shoots.

Initially, for such rooting of cuttings, it is necessary to pick up enameled, glass or plastic containers with a volume of 250 to 500 ml. It is important that when the future seedling is immersed in water, the buds remain above its surface. The rooting procedure is described below.

• The required amount of water is poured into the prepared dishes (container), cuttings are placed, after which it must be placed on the windowsill (best from the north or northwest side). Water at the rooting stage is not changed so that the process does not slow down, but fresh water is periodically added.
• The workpieces remain in water until the first roots are formed (8–10 days). At this stage, the cuttings require feeding, which is used as a nitroammofoska.
• After the roots grow 10 cm, cuttings are planted in small paper cups. The composition of the soil is peat, humus and sand in a ratio of 3: 1: 1.
• Provide moderate watering for the first three days after planting. In the future, irrigation is required at intervals of 2-3 days. At the same time, it is important that the cups with seedlings are in a well-lit place.

A month later, the container with the planting material should be temporarily transferred to fresh air (for example, to the balcony) for hardening. They start with 15 minutes, then the duration of such "walks" is brought to a day.

In the conditions of the northern regions, taking into account all the peculiarities of the climate and, most importantly, serious and rather early frosts, cuttings are rooted in special containers with soil before being planted for permanent residence. In such situations, the soil is a mixture of equal proportions of sand and black soil. At the same time, special means are successfully used to stimulate the development of the root system.

Gardeners who grow currants in milder climatic conditions do differently. Often in the southern regions, cuttings are germinated directly in the open ground, and such agrotechnical measures fall in the autumn months. A mandatory item in this case is feeding the plants with compost and humus. The pre-planting material is placed in stimulants for 12 hours, after which the cuttings are dropped at an angle of 45 degrees with an interval of 20 cm. It is important to remember that 2-3 buds should remain outside.

The soil must be watered abundantly and mulched with compost or peat. The next stage is a cover with black agrofibre, which allows you to retain moisture in the soil and prevent the growth of weeds. Holes are made in this material, cutting them crosswise in the right places.

In this case, the source material is cuttings collected both in spring and autumn.... From March to June, containers are prepared (pots with a volume of 0.5 to 0.7 liters). A drainage layer is placed on the bottom of these pots, and on top is a mixture of soda earth, peat and sand in a ratio of 3: 1: 1. Further rooting in the resulting substrate involves the following actions:

• the cuttings are planted so that 2 buds remain above the ground, and the lower one is at its level;
• the substrate is carefully compacted with your fingers;
• planting is watered;
• spray the cuttings several times a day;
• 4 days after disembarkation, nitroammofoska is introduced.

After the seedlings become quite developed and stronger, they can be transferred to a permanent place. When planting material, it is important to focus on the following key points:

• taking into account the composition and quality of the soil, fertilizers are applied at the preliminary stage;
• currant is a light-loving plant, on the basis of which, in low light, the distance between the bushes is increased;
• planting intervals are also determined taking into account the shape of the future crown;
• young plants must be protected from drafts.

An equally important point is the correct choice of a site for planting young animals. In this case, one of the key criteria will be the varietal characteristics of the plant. For example, for black berries, semi-shaded or completely open areas with a moderate moisture content will be optimal. It is important that there is no waterlogging of the soil. At the same time, red and white varieties prefer well-lit and warmed up hills.

Deserves special attention soil composition. For currants, sandy loam, medium and heavy loamy, as well as slightly acidic and neutral soils will be suitable. It should be borne in mind that groundwater must pass at a depth of 1.5 m.

In the context of competent preparation of favorable soil for the rapid rooting of young animals in a new place, it is necessary:

• dig up the selected area a season before planting on a bayonet, removing weeds and their roots;
• in the spring add potassium sulfate to the top dressing, as well as superphosphate;
• for 2-3 weeks add 4-5 kg ​​of manure or compost for each "square".

Each hole is filled by a third with fertilized soil and a seedling is placed in it at an angle of 45 degrees to the surface. The remaining volume is filled with earth, which is carefully compacted. The next stage of planting young currants will be watering (4-5 liters of warm water for each bush). After that, all the holes are completely filled with earth and watered again (up to 2.5 liters). If it is necessary to form a bush with the maximum number of shoots, then the root collar during planting should be deepened by 5–8 cm.

After the completion of all the above operations, mulching of the trunk circles is performed. For this, they successfully use:

• peat;
• needles;
• compost;
• dry leaves;
• straw and hay.

In a similar way, it will be possible to reliably shelter the young for the winter. In the spring, all the mulch is removed so that the roots of young bushes do not rot.

The main task of every gardener who wants to breed a good berry garden on the site is to create optimal conditions for the development of currant bushes, especially in the first year after planting. The key to success in this case will be the correct tillage, timely watering, regular feeding, as well as systematic pruning.

First of all, attention should be paid to the soil, namely, its loosening and removal of weeds. Such agrotechnical measures are carried out at least once every 2-3 weeks. This will provide free access of moisture to the roots of young plants during watering. It is also important to consider that the roots of the currant are in the upper layers of the soil. Based on this, it should be loosened to a depth of no more than 8 cm (in row spacing up to 10–12 cm) so as not to damage the root system.

An equally important component of care is organic mulching. It maintains moisture in the soil, prevents the growth of weeds, and also makes it possible to loosen areas directly near the bushes less often. Now many gardeners use agrofibre or black film as a reliable covering material. In summer, this approach will avoid loosening. To improve soil aeration, fertilization and other work, the cover is removed in the fall.

In the autumn, plant care has the following features:

• heavy loam is dug up to a depth of 8 cm, leaving lumps in order to retain moisture;
• the sandy loam must be loosened 5–7 cm with a garden pitchfork to preserve the roots;
• autumn planting of cuttings does not provide for fertilization;
• the first portion of top dressing for each bush is a mixture of compost (5 kg), superphosphate (50 g) and potassium sulfate (15 g).

The feeding area depends on the location of the main root mass. In situations with currants, it is located under the crown of the bush, and in some cases, a little outside it. Starting from the 4th year of life, plants are annually fertilized with urea at the rate of 20-25 g per unit. In the summer, currants require complex organomineral feeding in liquid form. Their introduction, as a rule, is combined with watering. Mullein and bird droppings are diluted with water in proportions of 1: 4 and 1: 10, respectively. In this case, the consumption of the first is 10 liters per "square", and the second - from 5 to 10 liters. It is allowed to replace organic components with the so-called Riga mixture, which includes potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus. Dissolve the product in a ratio of 2 tbsp. l. 10 liters of water and add from 10 to 20 liters for each currant bush.

In addition to all of the above, it is important to remember that currant is a moisture-loving plant that needs regular and abundant watering, especially during dry periods. Due to a lack of moisture, freezing in winter is possible, berries fall off before ripening.