Subtleties of the process of plastering slopes

High-quality wall decoration directly depends on how they will be plastered. A smooth surface is a guarantee of high-quality repair work.

When installing new windows, interior and entrance doors in front of the owner of the premises, it may be necessary to carry out additional repair work to plaster the slopes. Plastering can be done independently or entrusted with the process of professional repairmen. Today, there are a huge number of not only various plaster, but also tools to facilitate self-repair.

It is important to choose the right mixture depending on the type of room being renovated. At the moment, a huge number of various types of plaster mixes in various price categories are presented on the building materials market. The quality of the coating, its durability and appearance directly depends on the selected material.

Below are the characteristics of the two most commonly used formulations:

• A solution of sand and cement. Cement-based formulations are excellent for outdoor use and indoors with high humidity. Such mixtures are used when working on external slopes or slopes of sauna or pool windows. Distinctive features of the material are strength, durability, as well as high adhesion of the product. Such plaster is affordable in price, but does not hold well on painted, wooden and plastic surfaces.

• Dry mixes based on gypsum. Gypsum plaster does not shrink and itself is more plastic. Ideal for interior work. It dries much faster than cement, does not require additional filler and does not show through under a layer of paint, as it has a white color. In this case, the plaster itself is easily painted.

Before proceeding with the plastering process itself, it is necessary not only to purchase materials, but also to purchase the tools required to work with the mixture. Although plastering on window slopes is different from working with doorways, it is believed that the set of tools described below will work in both cases and is universal for any work with plaster, not only on slopes, but also on covering other surfaces.

• Level. You can use a hydro level, as well as a bubble or laser tool. It is important that it is not less than 0.5 m in length, but also not more than the width of the window or doorway. The optimal length is 1 m.
• Metal rule. It is used for plastering slopes, square pillars, niches and other building structures. There are also wooden rules, but they are not used when working with wet plaster, as the wood absorbs moisture and swells. It is important to carefully check the tool for curvature and damage so that you do not have to redo the finished work.
• Roulette. Absolutely any available one will do.

• Mixing container. You can take a bucket or bowl in which the mixture is stirred according to the instructions on the package.You also need a separate bucket to measure the amount of water in order to accurately observe the proportions. All containers must be cleaned and dried.
• Wide and medium trowel, trowel. They are convenient for both scooping the mixture and leveling it on the slope surface. With a trowel, you can throw the mixture onto a larger spatula, as well as eliminate small defects that form during the work.
• Grater and half grater to make the coating smooth. They are selected based on the type of plaster. Designed for leveling, removing flaws and grinding plaster clean. Unlike a trowel, a trowel can achieve a smoother slope surface.
• Ironer Is a tool with which the solution is also distributed and excess is removed. It is mainly used for smoothing cement floor screed, but it can also be used when working on slopes.

• Malka - a tool consisting of a wide cut bar (block) and a thin strip that fits freely inside (pen). Malka is designed to measure angles and transfer them to the workpiece. It is easy to make by yourself if you have a few wooden blocks.
• Brush and roller for priming and finishing. It is advisable to have brushes of different sizes to paint over all joints and corners.
• Self-adhesive window profile - a universal building strip that performs protective, plastering and sealing functions at the same time. The profile is equipped with a fiberglass mesh, which reliably fixes the plaster on the slopes and almost completely eliminates the appearance of cracks.

This set of tools is required for plastering indoor slopes.

As for the external window surfaces, there is another way using a window strip with or without siding. It is used for exterior decoration of slopes most often in private houses and personal plots. This method is only suitable for surfaces of a certain size, therefore, the window strip is not a universal method for decorative finishing of external slopes.

Before proceeding directly to plastering, you can study master classes, as well as carry out a number of preparatory work. First of all, the required type and amount of the mixture is selected. To find out the required amount, all slopes are measured, and the average consumption per 1 sq. m. The working surface is cleaned outside and around the window frame from debris and polyurethane foam.

The foam is cut exactly along the edge of the window frame. If the window has not yet been foamed, it is necessary to do this and let it dry completely. This usually takes about two hours, but it is best to leave the foam intact for a whole day.

Then it is necessary to remove all dust and dirt with a vacuum cleaner or a damp cloth and allow the surfaces to dry completely after cleaning, otherwise the plaster will not fall on the plane. After cleaning, you can apply the primer in two layers. The solution is chosen depending on the wall material - most often it is brickwork or concrete.

Additionally, a film for vapor barrier is fixed with self-tapping screws, or a sealant is applied. This is done to shift the dew point outward and prevent condensation from forming on the slopes themselves and on the surface of the window.

The sequence of work is as follows:

• Completion of all preparatory work: the allotted time must pass for the sealants to harden, the foam and surfaces to dry.
• If a mosquito net is installed on the window, then it is dismantled and removed for the duration of the work.The glass itself, the window frame and the window sill must be covered with plastic wrap so as not to damage or stain the window. It is not recommended to use ordinary tape, as it can leave traces of glue on the surface, which are then quite difficult to wipe off.
• When plastering slopes with your own hands, you can also use pre-purchased corners for additional reinforcement. They facilitate the formation of an even edge of the slope and protect it from subsequent deformation. The corners are installed at this stage of the work and are covered with plaster, in contrast to the decorative corners, which are attached to the finished work.
• The next point is the attachment of the bar, which defines the plane in which the composition will be applied.

• After that, you need to knead the amount of the mixture required to carry out the work. For its correct preparation, the instructions from the manufacturer are used, located on the packaging. The mixture should look like a paste, not contain obvious lumps, but also not drain from the spatula or trowel.
• Then it is necessary to apply the solution to the lower section of the slope with a throw-over motion. You need to try to do this evenly, which will greatly simplify further work.
• A rule is applied to the very bottom of the applied mortar and slowly rises along the slope, leveling the first layer.
• After completing the movement, it is important to inspect the surface for defects and curvature. If necessary, another solution is added and leveled with a small one.
• After 2-3 minutes, the excess is removed with a trowel, the rule is to level the solution vertically.
• Then the entire surface is leveled with a slightly dampened float using circular motions. There is no need to press hard on fresh plaster, otherwise you can easily ruin all the previous work.
• If necessary, repeat the entire algorithm, starting with the application of the solution to the slope.
• The plastered slopes must be given time to dry completely, and only then can the final coating be started.

• A single layer of primer is applied to the dried surface of the slope. It can be applied with a brush and roller or with more modern equipment such as a spray gun. It will greatly speed up and facilitate the application process.
• The putty is mixed according to the instructions and applied in a layer of 2-3 mm using a spatula of a convenient size.
• The putty is rubbed with a spatula moistened with water.
• Then you need to wipe all the corners and chamfer, if any.
• It remains to wait until it dries completely, and after that you can paint the finished slope or put tiles on it.

Working with plastic windows is carried out according to the instructions provided above. until the moment of complete plastering. Then, between the slope and the adjacent window frame, you need to make a vertical strip with the angle of the trowel and fill the resulting opening with a sealant in order to avoid cracking the plaster in the future.

To improve the quality of work with door slopes, it is necessary to use not one, but two rules. It is important to completely remove the old layer of plaster next to the box, after which, with a construction knife, set at an angle of 45 degrees to the upper corner, hold it to the very bottom, pressing it with effort.

Before applying the plaster, it is necessary to prime the entire treated area, and the surface must be filled with a sealant. The site must be cleaned immediately. Otherwise, the work is carried out in the same way as for window slopes.

It is more convenient to carry out work at a height with a structure resembling a goat. Compared to a stepladder, this is not only safer, but also allows you to cover a large area without moving from place to place.

There is a more modern plaster mix that contains acrylic. It is more versatile, but also more expensive.

It is necessary to work with the sealant very quickly, otherwise it may harden. Cured sealant is very difficult to peel off the surface.

It is also important to correctly calculate the time of working with the mixture. If plastering takes more than one hour, then it is better not to knead the entire volume of plaster at once, but to divide the mixture two or three times so that it does not dry out in a bucket.

If instead of door slopes it is necessary to plaster arched, then first the work must be done on the side slopes, and then tackle the upper slopes. At the end of all work, decorative corners can be glued to the corners - they will give a more accurate look to the finished slopes.

If you follow the recommendations exactly, then the process will go without unexpected difficulties.

The process of plastering slopes, see the video.