How to build a shed from corrugated board?

A barn is a necessary component of almost every suburban area and household farm. You can not do without it in the country. More and more often, profiled steel sheet is used for the construction of sheds.

The choice of a metal profile before starting construction requires special attention. And the point is not only that it is necessary to eliminate confusion between the material intended for the walls and the profile for finishing the roof. The sheet that is intended for finishing the facade is marked with a capital letter "C". After that comes a numerical index, from 8 to 21, that says a lot to professionals. The metal profile of groups C8 and C10 is recommended for the inner side of the walls, all other brands are allowed to be installed outside.

If you need to make the strongest wall possible, it is advisable to use sheets with corrugation reaching a height of 18-21 mm. But, in addition to the parameters of the corrugation, it is worth thinking about the width of the grooves, which directly affects the total rigidity of the product. The best grooves are those that drain rainwater downward and prevent it from penetrating under the cover. They make the wall more durable than the simplest solutions. It is very important to calculate the load in advance so as not to mount unnecessarily expensive structures and not to face the risk of collapse.

But choosing the right material is just the beginning. It is extremely important to find a suitable place for a corrugated barn.

The main criteria here will be as follows:

• impossibility or inexpediency of growing plants;
• low illumination;
• convenient access regardless of the time of day and year;
• equidistance in relation to the house, other outbuildings and to the entrance (entrance);
• minimal risk of flooding from rain and snow.

Each of these points is equally important. So, taking up space where you can grow vegetables or at least flowers is impractical. It is required to bring in and carry out at least sometimes quite significant loads into the shed. Therefore, the more convenient it is located, the better for the residents. Filling water can ruin not only wall structures and foundations, but also almost any thing.

Sanitary standards prescribe not to build a shed closer than 12 m from residential buildings both on your site and on neighboring households. Even with strict adherence to standards, distances to the fence, and so on, it is advisable to discuss your intentions with neighbors in advance. Conflicts are not worth the benefits of arbitrary site selection. Usually, the building is deployed with windows and a door to the south in order to increase illumination and speed up drying. Of course, it is also important to remember about the distances from gas pipes, wells, wells, power lines, about the maximum permissible slope of the terrain.

Most of the owners try to "hide" the shed behind the house, bring it closer to the gardens, orchards. This is not only convenient, but also justified by a very unpresentable type of building.But corrugated structures are an exception, especially if they fit well into the landscape. To decorate the space, they choose designs with drawings on the facade or having an original geometric shape. In any case, it is worth thinking about the balance between utility and external grace.

The most practical shape of a barn when building with your own hands is a rectangle. To exclude the slightest mistakes and unaccounted points will help to prepare the drawings in advance. It is recommended to assemble the structure with bolting. This is not only faster and cheaper than welding, but also safer and allows you to quickly dismantle the building if necessary. The selected site is freed from everything that can only interfere with the construction and operation of the barn.

It is very important to think over the arrangement of windows and doors at the design stage. During the construction itself, experienced craftsmen carefully check whether the vertical and horizontal lines of these elements are clearly maintained, whether there are no deviations from the plane. At the bottom, the opening is cut at an angle of 30 degrees, later there will be a window sill cut at the same angle. This will facilitate the outflow of water. To increase the operating time of the window will help to close the joints and cracks with sealants.

The place for the base is made on a well-prepared area, choosing in advance the type of foundation:

• monolithic slab;
• ready-made blocks;
• poured tape.

Since the construction of the profiled sheet has a small mass, you can put it on blocks or a tape with a shallow depth. The number of times when it is required to form a slab is very small. The monolithic base has another advantage, not related to the strength of the building - it turns into the floor of the future barn. The pits are surrounded by formwork. It does not matter whether the tape is poured around the perimeter or a monolith over the entire area, you need to wait 4 days until the concrete is completely hardened.

It is better to create solid foundations by filling in 0.5 m of a 1: 1 mixture of sand and gravel. For your information: this backfill should not reach the very edge. The filled layer is thoroughly rammed and covered with rubble, slightly rising above the ground. After ramming, it is covered with a mesh of reinforcement and wooden formwork is placed around the entire perimeter. The concrete can now be poured to a depth of approximately 0.3 m.

The step-by-step instructions provide for the implementation of the lower strapping in such a way that it then becomes the basis for flooring and installing vertical supports. The timber is fastened with spikes and grooves, additionally reinforcing them with metal corners. The floor is laid using cross-beams with a step of no more than 0.6 m. Having connected the posts of the vertical supports with the lower structure, then you need to make them a bundle with the upper harness.

All these details are verified in advance according to the building level. But even during the construction process, their geometry should be controlled. Connections are created by screwing long self-tapping screws at certain angles, reinforcement is made with steel corners. Mutual removal of any two posts by more than 100 cm is not allowed.

When the frame is ready, you need to take on the construction of the walls. Paronite gaskets must be placed in them, creating a thermal rupture. Plates of insulating materials are mounted using dowels, and films are attached on top to stop the action of moisture and gusts of wind. The P-shaped guides, when attached to the bracket, will help level the front surface; there should be air gaps between them and the films. Next, attach the profiles horizontally to the vertical guides.

Insulation with sawdust is not very practical: yes, they are cheap, but they quickly cake, easily get wet and deteriorate. Mineral wool is usually placed on top of a wooden lathing. A vapor barrier film is always placed above it, since the slightest dampness is contraindicated. Foam boards can be glued without wasting energy on mechanical fasteners. But in addition, you will need a sheet overlay to reduce the risk of mechanical failure.

The roof of the shed can be made with one or two slopes. Single-slope solutions require you to raise one wall above the opposite, otherwise the slope will not work. In regions with warm winters, a slope of 15-20 degrees is enough, but if snowstorms are frequent in some area, there is a lot of precipitation, it is required to increase it to 30-45 degrees. A roof that is too steep is also impractical, it can easily collapse even under the pressure of moderate wind.

In any case, the rafters are first prepared and the crate is mounted on them. To make the work easier, the rafter structures are assembled on the ground and only then raised, placing them from the end. The ridge is carefully aligned along the center line, which is marked with a rope. A layer protecting from water is placed on the crate, then a profiled sheet (already roofing, of course) goes. The inner plane of the roof is formed by clapboard or plastic panels.

Ceiling beams are most often made from boards up to 80 mm thick. It is not necessary to sheathe the ceiling itself, this makes the building taller and allows you to use beams as a kind of "hanger" for small bags and other items. The single-pitched roof is mainly directed with a slope to the rear plane, adding an additional beam on the facade to the strapping. It serves to support the joists laid from above and at right angles. The elements are connected with nails; wire is used for a reinforced bond.

The use of roofing material helps to save on roofing work. Although this material is not too strong and does not last long, it is quite acceptable for secondary structures. Roofs made of asbestos-cement slate have a longer service life, in addition, they will not catch fire. But such structures are fragile and heavy (you need to walk on them with caution, and it is better not to climb there at all). In addition, asbestos is unhealthy. Beautiful and durable metal tiles generate a lot of waste during installation, and their cost is not too happy.

For information on how to build a shed from corrugated board with your own hands, see the next video.