Lathing for siding: types and technology of installation

Installation of siding involves the construction of a lathing - a frame on which it will be attached. You can attach the material directly to the walls, but they should be perfectly flat, and the climate of the region should be warm. The thermal insulation layer is placed exclusively under the frame. Don't forget about ventilation gaps. Therefore, in many cases, the installation of the frame is required.

The installation of the frame greatly facilitates the cladding of the house with siding. First, it hides all the minor irregularities in the walls. If the material is attached directly to the house, then perfectly flat walls are required, otherwise the entire cladding will go in waves, warp, the siding strips will deform and burst in places.

Secondly, the facade with a crate is ventilated, which means that moisture will not accumulate under the siding. Also, the frame will allow you to hide the broken geometry of the walls when the diagonals do not match.

Thirdly, the frame allows for additional external thermal insulation to be continued. Sheets of expanded polystyrene or mineral wool are placed between the profiles, but should not protrude. It is important to note that the insulation not only protects from the cold, but also from the summer heat. Due to this, the temperature inside the building in the heat will be lower than outside.

Fourthly, by installing a frame, you can update the facade of an old wooden house. It is simply impossible to attach siding directly to rotten walls, and the lack of ventilation will have a devastating effect on the entire building. And the cosmetic repair will very soon develop into a major one, provided that the house does not collapse completely.

There are two types of siding frame depending on the material: metal and wood. Each has its own characteristics and nuances of editing, but the algorithm of actions is generally the same.

The structure of the lathing is erected from a galvanized or aluminum metal profile of increased rigidity in a U-shape with edges bent inward. They do not rust and can easily support the weight of the cladding. A metal crate is several times more expensive than a wooden one, but it is not afraid of moisture, temperature extremes, mold, rodents and insects. Such a frame is much more durable than a wooden one. At the same time, the weight of the entire frame is less, since the profile is lighter than the timber.

To mount a metal frame, you will need:

• UD-profile (PN) - a guide metal profile, instead of it you can purchase a ceiling grade PP 60 * 27 * 3000 mm;
• CD-profile (PS) - a rack profile, it is better to choose CD-60, a smaller section will not withstand the weight of the siding, and the cladding will deform over time;
• CD-connector - needed for building up a profile, purchased as needed;
• suspension (ES-bracket) or bracket - required for fixing the CD-profile to the wall;
• hardware - for fastening the UD-profile.

The thickness of the profiles must be at least 0.45-0.5 mm. The number of profiles depends on the size of the building; window and door openings are also taken into account. If insulation is laid, then the step of the wall profiles is equal to its width, usually it is 50-60 cm.The PS profile is mounted with a suitable guide profile using screws. The profile has longitudinal grooves that increase its strength. Hardware are selected depending on the material of the walls. If it is aerated concrete or brick, then dowels are required. For wooden walls, ordinary stainless steel screws are suitable.

Wood lathing is the cheapest option. It is quickly erected, installation is many times easier than that of the metal version. This is where the pros end.

The disadvantages are:

• special treatment for mold and insects is required;
• does not like moisture, is deformed;
• subject to shrinkage;
• difficulties with transportation and storage;
• it is difficult to build up the strut bar.

For the lathing, you should choose beams from moisture-resistant and durable types of wood, for example, larch. The section for the frame should be 50 * 50 mm or 40 * 50 mm, smaller in size simply will not support the weight of the siding. Hardware are selected according to the same principle as for metal crate. It is important to make sure that the beams are even, without blue spots of mildew, knots and delamination. Otherwise, such a frame will lead to the curvature of the facade. The moisture content of the tree should be no more than 15%.

The construction of the lathing does not require any special skills and can be easily assembled by hand.

All work on the installation of the frame can be decomposed into several stages:

• Level the surface of the wall, dismantle the video surveillance systems, remove the cables, fix the window curtain rods or remove.
• Clear the area around the house at a distance of two meters.
• Prepare tools.
• Apply markings.
• Make installation of the edge and framing the openings.
• Fasten vertical racks, lay insulation.
• Fasten the horizontal lintels.

It is necessary to prepare the walls of the house, since thin siding cannot hide strong irregularities. If there are gaps, then they must be sealed, for example, with polyurethane foam. In wooden houses, the gaps between the beams can be sealed with tow. All prominent elements must be removed from the walls, such as cameras, lanterns, decor, drain pipes, electrical cables, window moldings, trims and shutters. Cracked plaster and peeling paint must also be removed. Special attention should be paid to the corners, they must be leveled or adjusted with a frame, reinforced with a metal profile.

So that nothing interferes with construction work, the area around the house should be cleared: remove debris and benches, transplant flowers and bushes. Stepladders, ladders or scaffolding should be taken care of if the house is multi-storey. Wires that cannot be removed should be insulated. To do this, they hide in corrugated cable channels. For work, you will need: a hacksaw or a grinder (depending on the material), a hammer, a screwdriver (preferably a battery) or a drill with a special attachment, a tape measure (at least 3 m), a construction pencil, twine, a square, plumb lines, a level (preferably a laser, but you can and bubble, provided it shows correctly). Special goggles and work gloves are required to protect hands and face.

Now you can start building the frame, but first you need to make the markup. If the siding is horizontal, then the markings for the lathing should be vertical; for vertical siding - horizontal. The lathing begins with the construction of a profile and slats from the corners of the building. It is to this corner structure that the plastic corner of the cladding will be attached.

The most problematic places in the construction of the frame are the accuracy and even location of the jumpers. Therefore, the level and plumb lines will be the most important and demanded tools. To facilitate the work, you can stretch the twine: such beacons will greatly simplify the process of attaching the horizontal profile of the crate. The lower plank should be installed no higher than 5-20 cm from the ground. The distance depends on the degree of soil freezing. The upper bar is attached so as not to reach 20-25 cm to the eaves. After that, it is necessary to fix the plumb lines.

First, horizontal slats are installed around the perimeter of the house from above and below, as well as around windows and doors. Framing openings will increase the strength of the entire structure. To calculate the amount of material, you need to know not only the dimensions of the house, but also the openings. It is necessary to add up the common perimeters and divide by the length of the profile. Since windows and doors can leave scraps, it is better to count with a margin.

Then you can start attaching the post profiles. If the houses are insulated, then the step between them is equal to the width of the material, usually 40-60 cm. If there is a strong wind load in the region, then this step can be done less. The minimum width has not been set, but too frequent a step will increase the consumption of material for the frame and the load on the walls of the building. The siding material also affects the step: for example, 60 cm is enough for vinyl; metal is heavier, here it is better to reduce the step to 40 cm.

If the climate in the region is humid, then a waterproofing layer can be laid along with the insulation. The total thickness of the insulation with all layers should not extend onto the vertical racks, otherwise the ventilation subsystem deteriorates. Some insulation rolls already contain a waterproofing layer. How many uprights to install depends on the pitch. The calculation is very simple: you need to divide the perimeter of the building by the step width. You can count a different quantity for each step to buy with stock.

The horizontal lintels of the cladding should be installed in increments of 60-70 cm. Too frequent ones are not needed, since the siding is attached to the vertical frame profiles. It is recommended to check the installation of each rail with a level. If a skew is revealed, then it is easier to redo it right away than to make changes to an already finished frame. All slats must converge at the corners. After that, it remains only to sheathe the frame with siding.

The written instructions are suitable for erecting a vertical frame for a horizontal siding arrangement. For vertical cladding, the post profiles should be placed horizontally, and the lintels - vertically. Otherwise, the whole process of erecting the frame is similar.

The installation of a metal and wooden frame is slightly different. At the metal lathing, the UD-profile guide is first attached along the perimeter of the building from above and below and around the openings. Its main task is to fix the structure and give it rigidity. A CD-profile is already perpendicularly attached to it with a pitch of 50-60 cm. The profile is fixed to the wall with an ES bracket or bracket. In this case, the brackets allow you not to use the stretched beacons. Metal can expand in hot weather, therefore it is recommended to leave a small gap between the profile joints.

The timber frame is much easier to install. He does not need horizontal jumpers, but starting strips for siding and around openings must be mandatory. The edge beams can be additionally reinforced with metal profiles, just like the corners. This will give the structure more strength, while not making it much more expensive. The construction of a wooden frame cannot be done in rainy weather or in high humidity. The tree will absorb excess moisture, and when it dries, it will distort the entire structure.

Even with an accurate calculation of the material, it is better to play it safe and buy it 10-15% more. Because of the window and door openings, the material will have to be cut off, and among the timber in general, a marriage may come across, especially if a large batch is purchased. The remaining material will always come in handy in gardening and planting work. Many home improvement stores accept unspent materials back while maintaining their presentation.

If the construction of the frame with your own hands is done for the first time in your life, then it is better to dwell on a structure made of wood. It is easier to install and cheaper, damaged materials will be easier to replace. If the main requirement is durability or the climate of the region is characterized by high humidity, then it is better not to save money and build a metal frame. It will last long enough and will fully recoup its cost.

For information on how to set up siding profiles, see the next video.