DIY siding installation

A cozy home starts with a beautiful facade. An affordable and simple way of exterior decoration is the installation of siding with your own hands.

There are many requirements for facing materials for outdoor use. They must be lightweight, strong, durable, aesthetically pleasing, easy to handle and cheap at the same time. Few materials are able to satisfy all the points of this (incomplete, since in fact the requirements are more diverse) list. But siding falls into the category that is closest to the best option. It performs both protective and decorative functions at the same time. At the same time, the cost of the material is quite acceptable.

Its unique properties are due to the production technology. It is based on high quality raw materials, the composition of which is carefully calculated by technologists in terms of component ratio. Then this raw material is processed on expensive high-tech equipment and passes quality control at several stages.

Each panel consists of several layers. The inner layer provides stability to individual panels and the entire structure as a whole. It, in turn, can consist of several thinner layers. And the outer layer is resistant to weathering. It is also decorative.

The thickness of the siding depends on how it was produced. Basically, this division of methods is true for vinyl and basement siding.

• The first method is mono-extrusive. It assumes that the siding panel is made from one type of mixture (compound). In a heated state, the mixture passes through a profiling hole, which gives it the desired shape, and then it cools, while maintaining it.
• The second method is co-extrusive. Compounds are used here in amounts of two or more. This is determined by the required thickness and technical characteristics of the siding. It also goes through a layer-by-layer molding process in molds and solidifies in the desired position.

Hot production contributes to the fact that all the ingredients of the compound (base, stabilizers, modifiers, plasticizers, pigment particles) form a monolithic alloy.

This provides the following advantages of the facing material.

• When using raw materials of different component composition and different production technologies, a wide assortment line is obtained. A large number of types of siding allows you to sheathe the facade of the house with panels of different colors, properties and textures in accordance with the design idea and climate characteristics.
• The material can be used for external and internal cladding.
• The relatively low weight of the panels makes it possible to mount siding on any type of facade. It can be a concrete, brick, plastered, block, wooden facade. In this case, the operational state does not matter. The old tree will be completely covered, and the crumbling plaster can be sanded without spending time and money on restoring the layer.
• Siding helps to improve sound insulation and thermal insulation in the room. That is why it is used not only in private houses, but also for finishing municipal buildings, schools and kindergartens.This significantly saves heating costs in a large room.
• Suitable for cladding a summer cottage, apartment building, wooden cottage, outbuildings
• Between the panels and the wall of the house, if necessary, it is convenient to lay waterproofing materials and insulation.

• The material is convenient for one-handed assembly work. The instructions from the manufacturer are clear enough to start finishing without having experience in the field of repair.
• Panels from different compounds do not crack when installing fasteners.
• The surface of most species is hydrophobic and washable.
• The material is resistant to freezing. This guarantees its integrity in severe frosts, and also allows you to install walls with a thermal break (a layer that protects the walls of the house from freezing and condensation when the temperature rises).
• Quality siding panels have the same thickness along the entire length and uniform color.
• They do not fade in the sun, do not fade from water, since pigmented substances fuse with the rest at high temperatures.
• Different siding options in color and texture are combined with each other.
• Unlike natural wood, stone or facing bricks, siding is an economical finishing material, and its installation is less laborious.
• Provides a neat and beautiful look to the facade of the house for a long time. The service life of the material with high quality is up to half a century.
• Easy disassembly for refinishing.

Disadvantages of siding cladding.

• The guarantee of quality is the conscientiousness of the manufacturer. It is difficult to check it, therefore product flaws are most often found after repair.
• The brighter the panels are, the less resistant they are to UV fading.
• Only metal siding has impact resistance and resistance to mechanical stress.
• Each type of siding has its own limited color palette.
• A large number of panels are required for facade finishing. It is not always possible to purchase them from the same batch, and products from different ones may differ from each other in shade of color.
• Most species are not fire resistant.
• High prices for components.
• The manufacturer's warranty period for the product may change, or even be canceled altogether when using components from other manufacturers.

Varieties of siding are conventionally classified according to several criteria: objects of application, material of manufacture, design of the top layer. In addition, the assembly parts themselves vary in shape, thickness, and size. So, for facing solid surfaces of a large area, you will need panels in the form of lamellas with a locking system, and for finishing corners, basements and other complex areas, these will be parts of a smaller size and complex shape.

The width of the siding can be single (the part consists of one strip), double (herringbone or "ship's beam"), triple (one part consists of three stripes superimposed on each other in the form of a "herringbone").

Classification according to the objects of use implies a division into siding for external, internal and intermediate finishes.

Siding is used when facing such objects:

• roof;
• slopes and corners of the house;
• foundation and basement floor (specialized basement siding is produced for finishing semi-basement floors);
• window decoration;
• construction of hedges;
• finishing of non-residential buildings (baths, garages, warehouses and others);
• facing the facade of the building (and here you need a facade siding);
• finishing of balconies and loggias;
• finishing of the veranda or terrace from the inside;
• vestibule rooms in a private house between the entrance doors;
• interior decoration of living quarters: kitchens, bathrooms, toilets, and other types of rooms.

For interior decoration, the appearance of the panels, their size and direction are important, therefore manufacturers produce not only horizontal, but also vertical siding. Among its advantages, in addition to the advantages of horizontal siding, also fire resistance. It is often the determining element for the choice of decorative finishes, since SNiP sets its own standards for the fire resistance of materials for different types of premises.

Building codes regulate the maximum permissible formaldehyde content. and toxic substances per 100 grams of the weight of the finishing material. Their quantity is indicated in the product passport as an emission class. For interior decoration, only the first class is permissible; for exterior, other types can also be used. Also, the material of the interior decoration has a more variable color scheme, and the vertical direction of the panels contributes to a visual change in the parameters of the room.

There are several types of siding on the construction market, differing in the material of manufacture:

For non-professionals, the idea of ​​siding is limited to its varieties from PVC and plastic, and even metal products are already surprising. There is nothing strange in the fact that few people have heard of acrylic siding. However, its technical characteristics are many times higher than those of vinyl panels in quality. It can withstand a wider temperature range (from –50 to +70 Celsius), is less prone to fading, is fire resistant, durable and has a service life exceeding several decades.

With a relatively light weight, it is more resistant to damage than other types of metal facade finishes. The indisputable advantage of aluminum is that it does not corrode. Rain, snow, washing are not afraid of him. The paint adheres well to aluminum plates, which retains its bright color and presentable appearance for a long time. It is less ductile than acrylic, and this can be a disadvantage during construction.

This is a "cheap and angry" option in relation to decorating the facade with facing bricks or natural stone. Against the background of ordinary vinyl siding, it, of course, turns out to be more expensive and more complicated.

Concrete siding is made from cement-sand or cement-gypsum mixtures. Cement-based substances often require additional components to increase strength, therefore, various fiber fibers are added to the composition as a reinforcing element. The hydrophobicity of the material is increased by plasticizers. Color pigments are responsible for the color. Since concrete siding is used as a substitute for stone, the color palette is limited to natural shades.

In addition to the aesthetic qualities, concrete siding also has good performance characteristics. However, there are also disadvantages. Its large weight requires additional procedures for preparing the surface of the walls. They need to be strengthened by calculating the potential load.

The most common type of siding is made by mixing different components, heating them, and placing the compound in a mold. It is a practical and stylish solution for home decoration, but not always optimal. So for cladding the basement and the lower floor, vinyl siding may not be enough. It is recommended to use its type - basement. It is more durable due to additional layers and components in the composition.

Another type of PVC material - "ship siding" (maybe metal). It is more durable and moisture resistant, but at the same time remains flexible and convenient to work with. The peculiarity of this siding is that it imitates the surface of a wood board for shipbuilding.

The production of wood panels using the technology resembles the production of chipboard or fiberboard, since it is based on fine wood fiber. In order for the material to acquire resistance to moisture and strength, additives and plasticizers are introduced into the mixture. A protective layer is applied on top to preserve the color and structure of the wood from fading, moisture, mechanical damage.

Wooden panels lose out to plastic composite panels for moisture resistance and metal siding - for fire resistance. Their service life is lower than that of plastic-based siding, and the price is slightly higher.

Uncommon type of siding. It makes it possible to beautifully clad the roof and facade of the building, while providing ventilation under the finishing material. This ensures that fungus, mold, condensation will not appear on the facade of the house. However, there are several disadvantages as well. Copper is easy to deform during installation, it oxidizes and loses its attractive appearance under adverse weather conditions and constant precipitation.

The most complex type of panels in structure. It consists of five layers: a metal base that provides stability and strength to the panels, a primer, a polymer layer that is responsible for the texture and color of the siding, a protective varnish coating that prevents paint fading, and a protective film. The top film is a temporary measure. It protects the panels from damage during transportation and installation. It needs to be removed.

This material is made from first class cement (which has fewer impurities) with the addition of fine sand, cellulose fibers, minerals, plasticizers and dyes. It imitates the texture of wood, facing brick, stone and other materials for decorative facade decoration. It has flexibility, elasticity, hydrophobicity, and does not burn well.

The material has a number of disadvantages: it is expensive, weighs a lot, remains fragile, despite the reinforcing fibers in the composition, and during operation, cement dust is formed, since 80-90% of the material consists of mineral components.

Common options are siding with imitation of brick, natural stone, expensive wood (in the form of a bar, boards and rounded logs), glossy and matte, white and colored panels.

The prefabricated structure of any type of siding consists of a large number of elements. Components differ in shape, thickness, method of attachment and purpose.

In addition to the panels themselves, additional fasteners will be needed. Consider them from the lower level (foundation) in the process of finishing to the upper (roof).

To protect and give the foundation an aesthetic look, basement siding is used.Its peculiarity is that it is not oblong and narrow panels 3-4 meters long, but wider and shorter parts. They connect together like pieces of a puzzle. The decorative surface of basement siding often mimics the finish of natural stone.

The upper edge of the foundation, as a rule, protrudes forward by a few centimeters (and sometimes by several tens of centimeters). To make the structure look solid and have no gaps, the top of the basement siding and part of the foundation is finished with an "ebb". This detail resembles a small step in its shape and connects the foundation and the wall of the building facade.

The transitional element from the "ebb" to the wall cladding is carried out using an element called the starting bar. It locks the long bottom siding panel in place.

The next obstacle in the way of the longitudinal panels is the window openings. To finish them, you will need battens, a finishing profile (it acts as a groove into which a decorative part is inserted, and the window profile itself or a casing (it is a decorative element). The casing can be smooth or carved.

The transition from the profile to the longitudinal panels is again carried out with the help of an ebb and starting strips.

Problematic areas such as interior and exterior corners require special attention. For them, the complete set includes parts with the corresponding names - an inner corner and an outer corner. There are also details called J-corner or J-bar and F-corner, which cover problem areas such as cornices and connecting lines between the trims and the facade wall. When the length of the panel is not enough for the entire length of the wall, a connecting piece is used - an H-profile. The constructor of horizontal or vertical siding panels is completed with a finishing plank.

The J-profile provides a transition from the wall of the house to the roof and is needed for installing soffits and overhangs. The protruding part of the roof slope (bottom) is covered by a wind board or soffit. These parts are perforated on the surface so that air can circulate under the roof.

When all components are identified, it is necessary to calculate their quantity. It should be as accurate as possible so that all elements are joined together without gaps and crevices. Otherwise, manual adjustment will be required, and this is already difficult to do without experience in installation.

It is not difficult to calculate the amount of material. The main thing is to do it conscientiously, consistently and taking into account that the siding is not attached directly to the wall, but is fixed on a special crate from the profile. Sometimes it is necessary to add the thickness of the insulating layer.

Despite the fact that the opposite walls should be structurally identical, they are measured individually at two or three points in height and width. If the results are different at several points, you need to round in favor of the larger figure.

The width is multiplied by the height, and according to this data, the specialists in the store will help determine the number of panels (taking into account several in stock), based on the width and length of one panel. That is, the total area of ​​one wall is divided by the area of ​​the panel, and the resulting number is equal to the amount of material per wall.

For the stock, you need to purchase 10-20% more material. An extra 10-20 panels will be able to cover unforeseen siding consumption or fix installation errors. Many people forget about spare parts, purchasing them only after they are really needed, but this is a mistake. Parts from different batches, one way or another, will not be absolutely identical in shade, thickness and characteristics, and this will be especially noticeable on the facade.

The area of ​​window and door openings is subtracted from the total area of ​​all walls. Triangular wall fragments are a little more complicated.The base of the triangle and its height are measured here. Then "width" must be divided by two and multiplied by "height".

Then you need to sketch the shape of the walls, windows and openings, signing all the values ​​on them. This will help you not to make a mistake in the calculations in consultation with a specialist.

It is not so difficult to calculate such additional elements as external and internal corners, J, F, H-profiles, starting and final planks, soffits and wind boards. They are used in a straight line, which means that it is enough to know its length. The resulting number is divided by the width of one part, and then another 10-15 percent is added for material for unexpected expenses. If an opening or other obstacle is encountered on the line of using additional elements, its dimensions are subtracted from the total length of the section, which is finished with additional elements.

When purchasing components and siding, do not forget that it is mounted on a special crate. The lathing evens out the surface of the walls, which simplifies the installation of siding and allows you to create a gap between the finishing material and the wall of the house for air ventilation. In some cases, additional insulation, protection from moisture and condensation is required, then the crate serves for laying additional materials.

For the lathing, metal U-shaped suspensions, steel or wooden profiles, fasteners, self-tapping screws, scrap materials and tools are needed.

Metal products are versatile, wood is more suitable for use at moderate humidity levels.

The profiles should have a cross section of plus or minus 60 to 30 and a sufficient level of rigidity to support the weight of the structure.

The number of suspensions and profiles is determined depending on the pitch of the lathing, that is, from the distance between adjacent parts of the frame. It should not exceed 40 cm for heavy materials and 60 for light materials. The width of the wall is divided by the width of the step, and the resulting number is equal to the number of profiles that must be installed on 1 wall.

Self-tapping screws are purchased at the rate of 1 piece for every 20 cm along the length of the profile and hangers.

The set of tools for installing siding with your own hands is small, and its components can be found in almost any home.

First of all, devices are needed for measuring the surface area for cladding: a long ruler, a carpenter's square, a tape measure, crayons.

The next group of tools will be needed at the stage of installing a metal (wooden) profile and hangers. To correctly determine the starting line along the edge of the wall from which the installation of the suspensions begins, you need to use the building level. A simple plumb line is also suitable. The line must be drawn so that it does not blur. It is convenient to use a marker or bright crayon for this. To fix the hangers and profiles on the wall, you need a screwdriver. A hammer may come in handy.

Directly during the finishing work, you will need such tools: a grinder or a hacksaw with small teeth (cut the siding into fragments of the required length), a puncher, a rubber hammer, tools for dismantling unsuccessfully mounted panels.

One of the main advantages of siding is that it is easy to "hide" a layer of insulation under it. This significantly saves heating costs in the cold season and maintains a comfortable temperature in the room all year round.

In order for the insulation to serve for a long time and efficiently, it is important to choose the right materials. This is not only the insulation itself, but also intermediate layers that will protect the house and walls from condensation, overheating and other problems that may occur with improper insulation.

Properties of good materials in the insulating layer:

• the ability to pass air and "breathe";
• resistance to moisture and fire;
• resistance to freezing and temperature extremes;
• the ability to improve sound insulation;
• environmental Safety;
• durability.

The choice of insulation is the most crucial moment. Consider materials with suitable properties.

• Extruded polystyrene foam (sometimes called penoplex). In fact, it is the latest generation of foam. Since old-style foam begins to crumble within 5-10 years (and siding lasts many times longer), it quickly loses its effectiveness as a heater. But expanded polystyrene has all the necessary qualities. It is moderately dense, porous, light (does not load the profiles), cheap, durable, resistant to moisture, allows the walls to breathe (if not mounted end-to-end), protects from the cold in winter and does not create a "steam room" in the house in summer, and perfectly drowns out extraneous noises from the street.
• Mineral slab (wool). It is distinguished by its high density and strength at a small thickness, meets the requirements of building codes, provides ventilation, is bio-resistant, and improves the insulating properties of the house cladding. But mineral insulation also has disadvantages: in the absence of waterproofing and moisture ingress, the material loses up to 70% of its heat-insulating properties. Dust builds up over time. Only low-quality mineral wool is cheap, and a good one will have to spend a lot of money.

Basalt wool, glass wool and ecowool have similar properties, but they are more often used for indoor insulation.

• PPU. Sprayed polyurethane foam is an effective insulation, but requires special application equipment. Since the mass is applied to the wall in liquid form, it can be used before the installation of suspensions and profiles, due to which "islands of cold" will not form in the structure. But when PPU is sprayed, a ventilated gap does not remain on the wall. The wall won't breathe. Otherwise, this material is superior to others in its technical characteristics.
• Foam glass. A worthy alternative to sprayed PU foam. Working with foam glass is easier due to the fact that the material is sheet. It has a porous structure, low weight, high insulating qualities, resistance to moisture, decay and fire, is able to breathe, can be easily cut into fragments of the required thickness, does not shrink over time. Its service life exceeds the service life of many types of siding. Its significant drawback is its high cost. But if it is possible to make expensive cladding, it is better to use foam glass than other materials.
• Foil sheet insulation. Such materials are usually porous and made from a variety of foam, and sealed on top with a reflective "shell". This gives them an undeniable advantage - the ability of the insulation to retain heat in the house at sub-zero temperatures and the ability to prevent the room from overheating from the inside at high outside temperatures.

Do not forget about waterproofing and vapor barrier. These layers, insignificant in thickness, prolong the life and increase the efficiency of the insulation, but their absence in most cases reduces the effectiveness of the material to nothing.

Waterproofing is a layer of thin PVC film or other thin sheet material that overlaps on top of the insulation. That is, it is located between it and the siding and is necessary in order to prevent moisture from entering the insulation.

The vapor barrier is also made of a fairly thin material, which is mounted on the back side - between the insulation and the wall of the house.

To work with these materials, you will need scissors or a sharp knife (to cut fragments for hard-to-reach places), construction tape and a construction stapler.

When all the materials have been selected and purchased, it's time to start editing. The technology is universal for all types of siding, the work is done in stages.

• The first stage is preparatory. It is carried out after all measurements and calculations, so we exclude them from the list of actions. What really needs to be done as a preparation is to inspect all wall surfaces, especially difficult areas, for defects, irregularities, interfering elements. It is recommended to remove them in order not to damage the insulating materials and panels. The "influx" of cement mortar in the masonry must be carefully chopped off with a hammer; all "creases" on the foundation are also leveled. It's important not to overdo it. Protruding nails and pieces of reinforcement should be bitten off with pliers or bent and hammered into the wall. Chip off and sand the remaining layers of plaster. Old surfaces can be additionally primed so that they are not covered with fungus under a layer of insulation and facing material.

• The second stage is the device of a vapor barrier. It consists of several steps: cleaning the walls from the old coating, if any, processing cracks and gaps on the surface of the walls, drying the walls. Installing a vapor barrier on damp walls makes no sense. This is a waste of time.

• The third stage is the installation of the lathing. For the option with insulation, it will be the first of two and is made from spacer strips. For the option without insulation, this lathing is the first and last, consists of suspensions and profiles. Most often, universal metal profiles are chosen, and non-professionals have a question: what is the point in insulation, if there is still a lot of heat loss through the crate? The way out is to put paronite gaskets or basalt cardboard under the profile at the attachment points. Mounting brackets will help to fix them.

It is recommended to install the structure of the battens in accordance with the type of siding. For the horizontal, the scheme is one, for the vertical, it is different. In both cases, you need to start from the edge and set the guides first. Their location should be strictly vertical or strictly horizontal, and the line is outlined using a level or plumb line. Otherwise, the siding will not fit properly or the curvature will be noticeable.

• The fourth stage is insulation. The material is laid in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. In this case, it is impossible to deform it, since it can lose its properties.
• The fifth stage is the installation of waterproofing. This material (without tension) must cover the entire insulation. From above and below it must be carefully secured, and the width of the sheet material is laid with an overlap. Manufacturers often mark the edge line on the waterproofing film - the overlap should be no less than it indicates. It is fixed with a stapler and construction tape. This is followed by the installation of the second crate.

• The sixth stage is sheathing. It requires three simple rules to be followed to ensure the success of the event:

1. The most tight fasteners are not required. When “tightening the locks” between the parts, it is important to leave a small gap of about 1 mm. This will protect the material from cracking, and will also simplify the dismantling process in the future.
2. Fastening should be done in the middle of the mounting windows, not at the edges.
3. Do not drive the cladding panels into the doboks until they stop, it is better to leave a small gap.

You need to sheathe, performing actions in this sequence.

• Dismantling of gutters, door panels, platbands from window openings.
• Sheathing (including insulation). The extreme lag should be correctly installed exactly at the corner of the wall.
• The starting bar is mounted (on top, at the base of the pediment). Then the outer corners, aquilon and starting profile. The starting board is inserted into the grooves until it clicks, then you need to check the backlash (1-2 mm stroke). If it is respected, you can install fasteners.
• The rest of the panels are mounted in the same way. Checking for backlash is mandatory for each panel.
• Along the way, window and door openings, internal corners, and other elements are made out with siding.
• The last panel is applied without locking to determine if it needs to be adjusted. Then the final strip or J-profile is mounted, and the board is already inserted and snapped into it.
• Sheathing of the pediment (the triangular part of the wall under the roof slopes). It is somewhat more complicated than facing a rectangular wall. It is important to observe two nuances: cut the ends of the boards exactly along the slope of the wall corner, fix the ends of the boards in the J-profile (the usual finishing strip will not hold). Otherwise, the essence of the technology remains unchanged.
• Sheathing of cornices. It is carried out according to the scheme specified by the manufacturer. For high-quality installation, it is imperative to use special cornice moldings, profiles and perforated soffits.

Before installing siding panels with your own hands, you should study all the subtleties and features of the process in order to avoid common mistakes. They will subsequently cause many problems, affect the efficiency and service life of siding and insulation.

The main mistake is the incorrect counting of materials and the lack of spare (which is rarely superfluous) details. As a result, the alleged lining without flaws turns into a lining with obvious defects. Not only does this affect the aesthetics of the facade, but also the tightness of the coating deteriorates. This creates the risk of moisture ingress into the intermediate layers and deterioration of the insulation.

The second most popular mistake of self-taught installers is not to use waterproofing. And if the polyurethane foam survives such treatment, the mineral wool will swell, begin to put pressure on the siding and lose up to 80% of its effectiveness.

An equally gross mistake is to mount the panels end-to-end to the extreme wall and click the locks all the way. Siding is made from materials that contract and expand under the influence of ambient temperature. If you do not leave a gap of a few millimeters, it will simply crack in the very first severe frosts.

It is not recommended to screw self-tapping screws into the "body" of the panel. It has a perforated side for fastening. The self-tapping screw is screwed into the center of the hole, not at the edge. It is forbidden to fasten structural parts from the outside with non-galvanized (rusting) nails. Rust will appear on the panels, and they will not hold well.

The last mistake is not gross, but it is also better not to make it. It is about using glossy panels. Yes, they look better, but not for long. And they heat up faster than matte ones.

• A variety of types of siding in terms of material, shape, color and texture makes it possible to implement design solutions in the design of the facade. For example, installing single matte siding in light shades has already become a classic solution. Installation of a colored "Christmas tree" in a double or triple version will make the facade laconic, but bright, as is typical of modern design trends.
• Houses and cottages, sheathed with basement siding from foundation to roof, look beautiful, soundly and expensive. Modern fiber cement siding most accurately reproduces the relief and texture of natural stone and brick, so from the outside it will be difficult to distinguish such stylization from a real stone.
• Wood trim is always relevant for a private house. Light siding will perfectly fit into the Provence style, darker shades and imitation of untreated wood will be appropriate in the country style. "Ship's beam" with a pronounced texture and siding imitating expensive wood species will recreate the elite design of the classics in a modern interpretation.

How to mount siding with your own hands, see the video below.