Watering strawberries outdoors

Like strawberries, strawberries grow easily in all directions, yielding more and more crops every year. For diligence and diligence, these bushes will reward their owners with delicious berries added to a huge number of desserts.

The further the strawberries grow, the more water they require. Strawberry thickets, despite the seeming simplicity of supplying water to them, require compliance with certain conditions for correct watering.

First of all, the frequency of watering depends on the type of strawberry. In Russian conditions (excluding the republics of the North Caucasus, the Caspian coast, the Greater Sochi / Tuapse microregion and the southern coast of Crimea), it is better to give preference to late-ripening varieties. Sudden night frosts in the first half of April can harm bushes that have entered the period of sap flow and have begun to sprout new shoots. Until the "mustaches" touching the ground have taken root to a depth of at least 25-30 cm, sudden temperature fluctuations can prevent them from developing into full-fledged bushes. In general, strawberries resemble a pumpkin: in a warm and sunny climate, with an abundance of moisture, it grows generously in all directions, giving rise to new bushes.

As soon as the snow melted and the weather was moderately warm (about 9-15 degrees above zero), and the bushes resumed growing new layers, follow the weather forecast. If the spring rains continue every day, and the moisture from the precipitation falls well, thoroughly saturates the ground, you can not water the strawberries at all until the daily rain disappears for at least a day or two. When the surface of the soil becomes dry, the moisture content of the deeper layer can be easily checked by sticking your finger into the soil to a depth of 2-3 cm. If it is already dry, let the water go through the existing irrigation system.

In the second half of April and in May, in September and the first half of October, until the period of sap flow is over, the watering time is not critical: there is no heat, the main thing here is daily abundant watering. During the summer months, when relatively dry and hot weather predominates, daytime watering - say, when the sun is at its zenith - can damage plants. Although strawberries are a perennial bush, they can also overheat. In the southern regions of Russia, where from late May to early September the temperature in the shade can reach + 35 ° C, and in the sun this value can reach +42 degrees or more, the soil overheats. The water that moistened this soil and cooled it for a couple of hours also becomes relatively hot on a hot day, and the plants may die.

The fact is that water should not create an airless space by trapping the roots of plants: the root system breathes in the same way as the aerial part of the thickets. In hot and dry weather, the best option for most varieties is abundant watering once a day.

There are several ways of irrigation: manual and drip, sprinkling. Today, drip and "shower" irrigation is in the greatest demand.

It couldn't be easier: the watering can is filled from the drain hose or tap, then refers to the place where the strawberries are watered. The advantage of the method is the ease of visual control: more water will not be poured onto the bush than provided. This also gives relative savings for those who do not have a well with unlimited water in their country house, but metering the water supply using a meter. The disadvantage is significant time costs.

Watering a strawberry that is sown, say, one hundred square meters, even with a nearby drain hose, can take an hour or more. Each bush is dug in a near-bush circle - a roller of up to 10 cm high black soil piled around the bush itself. The pouring and seeping water in all directions erodes it over time, and the near-trunk circle is periodically restored.

Strawberry beds (all of its territory) are dug in with black soil around the perimeter. It should rise a few centimeters, preventing water from draining to the side. You can dig in each bed separately. The land on the site in this place must be flat - along the horizon, so that the water spreads everywhere and evenly. The water supply opens. If one bush took, say, 10 liters, 30 bushes can take 300 or more liters - given that the soil is soaked not only directly in the place of each bush, but also between them.

For a group of several bushes, you can set your own "shower". If the water pressure has deteriorated significantly (the summer cottage is in full swing and many are watering something), you can install your own tap for each "shower" so that the pressure is enough to create artificial rain (irrigation) in this place.

Assembled automatic systems are activated according to a schedule. By controlling the cranes with the help of software-controlled valves operating on the basis of a relay, they irrigate the beds for a limited time (for example, half an hour - from 20.00 to 20.30), or taking into account the watering according to the indications of an electronic-mechanical counter. The sprinkler here is swivel: it serves the entire surrounding strawberry area, rotating evenly, rotating at a specific rpm. If there is no water or the pressure has dropped below the minimum permissible threshold, then the "smart" system will give a corresponding signal and will not start watering. Craftsmen make water supply systems based on electromechanical pumps and pumps used in automatic washing machines.

Drip irrigation is a system of hoses or pipes with microscopic holes. The holes themselves are made with a needle in the place where the root rosette of the bush is. These pipelines are laid out in all beds. Pressure is created in the system (in one or several atmospheres) - and the drip-jet irrigation works pointwise, preventing the slightest waste of water.

The hole is made in such a way that for, say, half an hour, up to several liters eventually poured onto each bush, soaking the soil in the area of ​​the main root. Water is allowed in without pressure - it drips, and does not hit directly into the plant in a microscopic trickle. The system can have only one tap - on the main line: under pressure or almost without it, water will reach each bush.

Cold water from a well has its striking ability to thickets: having a temperature of about + 10-16 degrees, poured onto the ground heated to +45 degrees, it creates a kind of cold stress for strawberries, which is also not useful for plants. The best option for watering in summer is water settled in barrels, a bath or a pool, which has time to warm up to at least + 25 ° C. Tap water does not always fit into the range of + 20-30 degrees: the temperature here depends on the depth of the water supply line, the intensity of its use (for example, constant and frequent overruns by you and your neighbors at the same time).

It is not recommended to water any plantings with overheated water in the sun: a 150-liter (and larger capacity) plastic barrel, if it is not white and reflects the sun's rays well, can cool down for several hours. Forty-degree water is already overheated - it is recommended to dilute it so that the temperature drops below +30: for strawberries this is already a comfortable indicator.

If the plants, despite the correct schedule and intensity of watering, began to burn out in the summer, it is worth taking measures to limit direct sunlight. Strawberries do not ripen in full shade - they interfere with:

• nearby buildings and buildings;
• solid canopies, a high and blank fence,
• lush crown of trees that have grown several meters in height,
• other obstacles that prevent the sun's rays from penetrating into the growing area of ​​garden crops.

Low trees and shrubs with a sparse crown, trellised or mesh, translucent / matte canopy trap up to half of the sunlight. The rays acquire a more diffused character, they do not burn strawberries all day, overheating the plants, but gradually fill the ripening berries with energy.

The remaining light on the strawberries is enough to produce a crop that will not burn out from the heat, lasting a month or more. During the Soviet era, the practice was widespread, for example, of planting grapes in the yards: its greenery curled under a chain-link and supports that trapped part of the direct sunlight; the other part was swallowed up by lignified branches covering leaves, flowers and ripening clusters. What remained was enough to ripen the sweet grapes, the quality of which was excellent. This approach will work in favor of grass-roots and bush-like plantings, including strawberries. An example of this is strawberries at the edge of the forest.

Soak water in tanks, tub and other containers before watering. The fact is that fresh water from the water supply system may contain chlorine, a small amount of mud, and rust. Rusty water is a frequent occurrence in deep wells: iron oxide, which is contained in water in significant quantities, undergoes natural aeration with air bubbles, to oxidize to an oxide that precipitates. Rust build-up on bathtubs, toilets and sinks is clear evidence.

Tap water, although settled, contains less mechanical impurities, but chlorine should come out. Well water contains hydrogen sulfide instead of chlorine - it is also eroded. Reacting with soil organic matter, chlorine, hydrogen sulfide and iron form a white salt deposit on the soil surface. Penetrating into plants, and with them into the crop, these salts act on some people who would be damaged by an excess of these chemical compounds.

It is useful to add organic and mineral fertilizing together with water - minerals and organics, selected correctly, improve the quality of berries and increase the yield. This is true for both outdoor plants and their pot-and-box counterparts. For example, urea and ash are used for strawberries.

During the flowering period (late April and early May), watering is reduced to a minimum, for example, once every few days, focusing on the weather. Insects will not pollinate flowers if it rains frequently or constantly on the beds.