How to insert a drill into a hammer drill and how to remove it?

With the advent of reinforced concrete structures, no internal or external repair is complete without a hammer drill. On the market, the range of such devices is represented by a wide variety. However, the basic mechanisms work in about the same way. This statement is primarily true for the drill resetting process.

With the help of a hammer drill, you can make a hole in almost any material. This device is most often used when working with concrete, brick and metal, less often with wood.

The variety of materials assumes several modes of operation and a large number of attachments:

• boers;
• drills;
• crowns;
• chisels.

The main difference is their purpose.

Drill nozzles are designed for drilling punching operations with high strength materials. In this case, the hammer drill performs not only drilling, but also impacts or vibrating actions. Drills make neat holes of the required depth and diameter in the surfaces. Crowns are used for drilling large holes. For example, under an outlet. Installing a chisel or blade assumes that the tool works like a jackhammer.

A significant difference is the type of attachment, which for all attachments, except for drills, is suitable exclusively for a hammer drill, since it has a landing tail, mounts in the form of grooves for this tool.

But you can also fix a conventional drill from a drill in a hammer drill. This requires an adapter called a removable chuck. This device is of two types:

• cam;
• quick-release.

The name of the type itself determines the type of drill clamping mechanism. The cam clamp is driven by a special key that is inserted into the thread on the outer perimeter and turned. In this case, the collet mechanism installed inside the chuck is compressed or unclenched, depending on the direction of movement of the key.

The quick-clamping type is operated by small hand force. By pushing the chuck downwards, the drill hole opens.

The hammer drill itself also has a quick-release mechanism. Reliable fastening of the drill in it is ensured by fixation with the help of special balls, which, when closed, fit tightly into the grooves on the lower part of the drill.

In order to fix the required nozzle, be it a drill or a crown, you must:

• take the lower part of the cartridge down (towards the perforator);
• holding it in this position, insert the desired nozzle;
• release the cartridge.

And in order to insert the drill into the perforator using an adapter, first fix the removable chuck, which has a mount at the base with grooves for the tool. Then the drill is installed directly. To remove the drill or drill, you need to perform all the above steps again.

Here I would like to note that any manipulations for installing and removing a drill or other nozzles are preceded by a check of the operating condition of the perforator mechanism. To do this, the unit must be connected to the network and, having set the required operating mode, press the start button. If the unit does not emit unusual sounds and, at the same time, no extraneous smells of burning or burnt plastic are felt, then the tool is ready for use.

As with any tool, even the best quality hammer drill can jam. When performing work, this becomes a problem, which has several options and reasons.

Firstly, when the drill gets stuck in the removable chuck, and secondly, if the bit is jammed in the hammer drill itself.

When the problem is in the clamping of the tool itself or in the removable head, then it is enough just to pour a little liquid of the WD-40 type into the chuck and wait a little. The composition will relax the grip of the clamping device and the drill can be reached without any problems.

There are times when there are no special mixtures and car dealerships at hand. Ordinary kerosene can be a way out. It is also poured over, and, after waiting 10 minutes, they try to release the nozzle. In this case, light tapping on the clamp and slight staggering of the drill are permissible. After completing the procedure, the clamp must be thoroughly cleaned and lubricated.

The cause of the malfunction is also in the poor quality of the drill itself. If a cheaper and softer metal alloy was used in the manufacture, then the drill bit can damage the drill during operation.

There are several ways to fix this problem. The first thing to try is to hold the drill in a vice and, holding the tool in your hands, loosen the bit and pull it towards you. If the deformation is not very serious, then the nozzle can be pulled out.

The second option provides for double fixation with a vice - a hammer drill on one side, and a drill on the other. Then they take a small hammer and hit the drill in the direction of the exit from the clamp. With this operation, you can use the WD-40.

When none of the methods helps, you can try to remove the parts of the chuck and turn the drill in the opposite direction by about 90 degrees. However, such a technique can completely ruin the parts of the clamping device.

But if this option does not work, it is better not to try to disassemble the device. It is better to give such a perforator to a workshop of competent specialists.

The nozzle can get stuck not only in the mechanism of the unit, but also in the wall during operation. In this case, you can try to free the drill or drill by turning on the reverse stroke (reverse) on the device.

If this method does not work, then the nozzle is released from the clamp, another is inserted, and, having reamed the wall around the stuck tip, remove it. If the drill breaks during operation, then its remnants are removed from the clamp, and a piece stuck in the wall is drilled out or simply cut off with a grinder at the same level with the working surface.

Detailed instructions for securing the drill in the hammer drill in the video below.