How to pinch cucumbers in a greenhouse?

Pinching cucumbers is primarily aimed at achieving the earliest possible maturity of a particular variety, high quality and a considerable amount of yield. The procedure, during which mistakes were made, can even lead to the death of individual plants, a sharp reduction or complete loss of the crop.

You can pinch cucumbers both ground and greenhouse / greenhouse / greenhouse. The main thing is to act with an eye not only on the whims of the weather and the frequency of watering, but also on the specific situation, in particular, the growth rate of the green mass. It is necessary in order to prevent the growth of useless greenery, which, most likely, will not bring a crop, since the plant has a single root, and its capacity in the supply of water and minerals may simply not be enough for all the shoots from the main lash to bring a lot of good developed fruits. It is not necessary to expect that from each vine it will be possible to get more than a hundred cucumbers per season. For this purpose, pinching, pruning are used as very effective measures to prevent the outflow of excess organic matter back to the roots and stem, which, as you know, move not along the deep, but along the near-surface biological layers of the branches and the main lash.

As you know, according to the law of conservation of all things - substances and energy, according to which all nature lives, if you give free rein to the uncontrolled growth of cultivated plants, then the harvest will be small, or it will not appear at all. Trimming and pinching cucumbers, like any vegetable crop, is carried out in order to direct the excess organic matter to the formation of new ovaries exactly and on time, as well as their enhanced growth, early maturity and a taste pleasant even for the most discerning person. A pinch is also needed to thin out the green mass in a greenhouse or greenhouse: plants need at least the minimum ventilation necessary for their life.

It is impossible to take into account strictly according to the calendar what specific day of the month to begin the first pinching of the whips of cucumber bushes in a given year. The situation really depends on the vagaries of the weather, the planting of certain varieties, and the growth rate of the cucumber shoot varies significantly. Before starting the operation, the following characteristics of the final variety are compared with others similar to it.

1. Seedling planting date. Plants should grow significantly, get stronger, take root thoroughly.

2. The number of inflorescences already pollinated and formed ovaries. They also differ for pollinated and self-pollinated varieties.

Pinching of plants is mandatory. Some novice gardeners consider this procedure unnecessary. Pinching increases the yield to an extra two kilograms of cucumbers from one bush, and this, you see, is a lot. Pinching is done very carefully - the stem of the cucumber shoot is fragile, it is easy to "gnaw" it. Pinching cucumber shoots is one of the most effective ways to form a bush. Fruiting becomes noticeably more efficient. If the main lash is damaged, then the number of female inflorescences will be sharply reduced. If you do not observe the interval of the pinching procedure, it turns out that the cucumbers after ripening will continue to remain bitter.

Of the well-known schemes, performed step by step, of pinching cucumbers, the so-called chess is the best known. It consists in the following.

1. The first pinching session is carried out when the first sheets appear. Plants continue to be watered abundantly every day. On each side, pinch two additional shoots on the sides, focusing on the main whip of the bush.

2. After the appearance of 6 leaves on each bush, 2 lateral shoots are pinched on each side, still focusing on the main whip.

3. After the appearance of 10 leaves on each bush, the lateral processes are pinched, including the formed ovaries that emerged from the male inflorescences.

4. After the appearance of 11 sheets, pinch the top of the lash. At this time, the cucumber plants are fed.

If you violate the scheme and the period of pinching, having enlisted advice for a completely different variety, then such "compatibility", with a high degree of probability, will destroy the plants, which will simply cause you to lose your crop. For cucumber plants formed in a single-stem greenhouse, this approach will save additional living space. If the procedure is performed correctly, then the plant effectively resists diseases and pests.

If the inflorescences are represented mainly by male flowers, which are in an exceptional majority in many varietal cucumber crops, the top of the lash is removed, which allows the plants to grow lateral shoots. Depending on the variety and the weather that affect the length of these shoots, pinching is done when at least 6 true leaves appear. All the undergrowth is cut off from the main lash, including the flowers that have sunk to the ground. These measures protect the still young plant from diseases and pests: they try to climb from the ground onto the plant itself exclusively through them, and do not fall on it, flying around the main whip. After pinching, the already formed cucumbers gain in weight and size, at first they gain strength, and then new ovaries are formed on the stepsons (lateral shoots that have grown from the knot on the main lash). To spur the growth of cucumbers, plants are fed with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers, dissolving no more than 60 g of phosphate salts in a bucket of water. For 1 m2 of cucumber thickets, no more than 3 liters of corn stimulant solution will be required.

Before the procedure, the hands are thoroughly washed, and the scissors, sharpened in advance, are disinfected. Pinching is done for pure bush and climbing varieties. With a significant acceleration in the growth of stepchildren, they are tied to a trellis fence, which will allow them not to lie on the ground. This will protect plants from the formation of yellowed cucumbers, which have taken the shape of a barrel, as well as a massive invasion of pests. The top of the main lash is trimmed a few centimeters from the last knot (leaf petiole).

The general principle of pinching is to stimulate the rapid growth of lateral branches. Some stepchildren, which you decided to leave for lateral growth, also pinch after the appearance of 4 leaves. The cucumber vine should grow in different directions, with the long branches depleting the plant's nutrient reserves, causing the plant to shed its ovaries.Cucumbers, which have grown to typical dimensions, are harvested, which prevents a decrease in the yield of the bush.

Artificially bred cucumber varieties are self-pollinated. They do not need the presence of insects nearby or windy weather. The description of each of the varieties contains advice on whether they need to be grown in greenhouse conditions, or a certain variety will do with open conditions. Hybrid varieties are tied up on a trellis or net to prevent pests from appearing on the vegetation, to allow the wind to freely penetrate between branches and leaves, and also to increase the comfort of the owner (summer resident) when the time comes to harvest.

Insect-pollinated varieties can be artificially pollinated by humans. Aerobatics is considered to be the cultivation of bee hives near the greenhouses where cucumbers are grown. The greatest number of ovaries is formed precisely on the lateral shoots. The main lash is dotted mostly with flowers, most of which are male barren. Pollinated and hybrid varieties are formed by pinching the main whip. For further growth, the main whip can grow further, continuing its growth from the uppermost side. Pinching is carried out not earlier than after the formation of the 6th leaf.

The varieties included in this data are distinguished by the appearance of a small number of male flowers. At a height of 0.5 m, the lateral processes are pinched above the lateral leaf. Having departed a meter from the surface of the soil, lateral processes, two formed fruits and three leaves are left. Having retreated from the surface of the soil 1.5 m, 4 ovaries and the same number of leaves are left.

Pinching is recommended in dry weather. During the rainy season, pathogens of all kinds of diseases would get into the plant through the pruning sites. Plucking thick stems will require additional plant care. Cut off places are sprinkled with coal powder, or a small amount of copper (or iron) sulfate is applied.

An incorrectly regrown lash, having vegetative disturbances, will not be able to provide a good harvest. Despite the difference in pinching for certain varieties, gardeners and gardeners make the same mistakes.

It is forbidden to remove barren flowers on bee-pollinated varieties. Despite the abundance of growth of female inflorescences, the absence of male ones will not give a bountiful harvest.

When cutting off shoots, it is forbidden to cut them flush without leaving a "hemp". The wound inflicted on the plant dries up, the drying out of the cut area gets to the deeper layers of the stem from which the lateral shoot was cut, and as a result, it is damaged, and the bush can no longer grow. The ingress of microbes and fungus will infect the entire plant, and there will be no harvest from it. Pinching and circumcision should not be done in the evening - it is better to do it at dawn. The heat during the day will dry out the cut area, and by the morning the stem adapts due to the influx of new water with minerals dissolved in it.

Shaping, including pinching, is sometimes a one-time measure. Frequent pruning of shoots will not give the desired effect - you can completely lose your crop.

The greenhouse should have walls made of matte material, for example, polycarbonate - the scattered rays of the sun are less aggressive than direct ones.