How can you tie up cucumbers in a greenhouse and greenhouse?

Cucumbers are a popular plant for planting in a country house, a garden plot, or even a balcony. In this article, we will analyze how to tie cucumbers in a greenhouse or greenhouse, and also consider ways to properly tie them.

The plant is characterized by fast growth rates. As the branches develop, they can intertwine with each other, which affects the health of the cucumbers not in the best way. Therefore, they often need to be tied up.

In general, making a garter is necessary to achieve the following goals:

• even distribution of branches and bushes themselves;
• the ability of all plants to access sunlight;
• the possibility of normal and correct growth and distribution of the mustache;
• saving space;
• the preservation of flowers and ovaries to maximize the possible yield;
• free access for full watering and harvesting of fruits, the optimal process of removing weeds, stepchildren, dried or diseased foliage;
• lack of decay of leaves and fruits;
• reducing the risk of disease.

If you nevertheless decide to take such a step, you need to know some of the features and adaptations that gardeners advise for the correct and convenient garter of cucumber branches. While in the greenhouse, the plants experience some difficulties and require special care. First, let's look at a few basic rules for greenhouse tying.

• The garter is carried out if the plant is sufficiently formed. This is usually the third or fourth week after disembarkation. Later this period, experienced gardeners do not recommend the procedure: the branches become brittle and poorly withstand deformation. The length of the shoots should be up to 30-35 cm, they should have at least six leaves on each.
• The plant should not fit snugly against the base. It is enough for it to be attached for a while: then the whiskers of the plant will themselves be attached to the base. It also ensures the normal flow of nutrients to the fruit.
• Returning to the fragility and tenderness of the shoots, it is worth noting that the support for them should not be too rough. It can cause harm and cause wounds on the branches, and this is one of the ways to infect a plant.

The most common fastening consists of a tensioned base (arc) and supports. In order for the support to last long and be as comfortable as possible, it is important to use the right materials.

Usually the following things can be useful for construction:

• twine or strong rope;
• plastic or metal mesh;
• posts made of wood or metal two meters long;
• hooks;
• fabric in the form of stripes (3-5 cm wide);
• pegs;
• hammer and nails;
• pliers.

There are many ways to fix cucumbers conveniently and beautifully with your own hands. Let's look at several options for how to do it correctly step by step.

This type of garter is suitable for those who have a relatively low greenhouse and a small number of plantings. In appearance, the structure resembles a wall of ropes. The horizontal garter pattern is considered one of the simplest.

Let's consider it in stages:

1. the structure consists of high supports and a rope driven in on the sides of the ridge;
2. it must be pulled at a distance of 30 cm from the ground, and it is better if it is slightly wider than the length of the bed;
3. at a height of 35 cm, the second row is pulled;
4. moving up at such a pace, adding 5 cm on average, we get a wall for a garter.

Vegetable shoots are suspended on the resulting supports and placed along the ropes, and the wrapping is carried out clockwise.

It should be remembered that cucumber is a branching vegetable, its heavy leaves can "jump" to adjacent steps, leading to tangling of rows and the shoots themselves. If you have a dense planting of bushes, gardeners recommend either pinching to a rope or removing excess shoots. All sick or weak processes are removed without pity: they will take away from the plant the forces that it needs to form full-fledged fruits.

The vertical garter is suitable for greenhouses with a ceiling height of at least 2.5 meters. To disassemble this method, let's start with the wireframe. On the sides of the bed, as in the previous version, pillars are dug in, each 2 meters long. If the bed is very long, then another such column is installed in the middle. A transverse bar is placed on top and fixed. On this plank, you need to tie several strings about 15 cm apart (the distance may vary depending on how tight you are). The cuts go down to the very ground and are fixed on it with pegs. The cucumber creepers are easy to hang.

The stem from each bush should go up only along its assigned rope base. To make the structure more reliable, you can tie the plant up with a piece of cloth (this method is suitable for the option without pegs). Its upper part, which has reached the very top, should be pinched.

A method for skilled gardeners. It is carried out in the period before planting seeds in open ground. The manufactured structure resembles a cone in shape. Ten metal rods or wooden stakes are dug in along the perimeter of the circle, each – to your landing. Seedlings that have sprouted and reached 25-30 cm in height are considered ready for garter. It is better to do this with pieces of cloth, twisting the shoot clockwise. Thus, the plants move downhill, forming a cucumber hut.

The method involves the use of special commercial, usually U-shaped plastic bases. Most often, this method is used for planting in open ground. Ready-made structures are sold in stores, however, instead of them, you can install polypropylene pipes and build a canopy yourself.

The method is not for everybody, but we will analyze it too. To create a support, you will need a garden plastic mesh with large cells, which is stretched between the stakes. Drive them in the center of the opposite sides of the ridge. It is not difficult to tie bushes in this way: each branch needs its own cell, but this is a slightly more costly method.

In addition to the above standard options, we will consider those that are considered more decorative, but no less practical.

• Barrel method. In a barrel (it is possible without a bottom) we fall asleep the earth, where we sow cucumbers. Growing lashes descend from the top of the barrel down the wall.
• "Wood". The lower part of one or more bushes (the one that is blinded, which will be discussed below) is tied to a vertical support. Several ropes are tied to it in advance at an angle of 60-70 degrees downward. Further, the cucumber lashes are simply twisted on them. It is better if the ropes are 1-2 more than the branches of the plant.
• Interesting options are obtained when using twine. It itself is considered as an independent material in the manufacture of supports. The twine thread can be tied to hooks attached to the beam under the greenhouse roof (if there is one, that is, the beam, of course). The free lower part is tied to the bush in the place of the third leaf. In the absence of a beam, it is quite possible to tie the twine to the pegs placed inside the greenhouse.
• Another way that gardeners do not shy away from is the use of trellises. A frame is made with an upper bar and two side ones, 2-2.5 m long. This is the future basis. A mesh is formed and nailed from a single tissue field with cells or from sewn pieces of fabric. Similar options are the construction of a lattice from rods and branches free of bark and knots, or from thin wooden slats.

After the construction of any type of the above structures and the garter, the sprouted cucumbers should be "blinded". This is necessary to stimulate the growth of those parts of the plant where the ovaries will form, as well as for their general strengthening. The process is quite simple: the first flowers, leaves and shoots are removed at a level of 30-40 cm above the ground and below. The remaining shoots develop freely until new ovaries appear. In the future, they need to be carefully tied to the main stem.

For growing in a greenhouse or greenhouse, almost all of the above methods of garter are suitable (except for the conical one and those where it is supposed to be planted in open ground). When planting, be guided by the vegetable variety, the volume and area of ​​the greenhouse or plot, the materials and means available.

Novice gardeners cannot always complete the garter correctly without the supervision of a more experienced curator and only cope with the second or subsequent time. This is normal, but let's look at some mistakes to avoid this.

• Timing. As mentioned above, cucumbers have a favorable period for the garter to "pick up". A plant that is too tall is much more difficult to move or make it grow in a certain direction. The optimal length is 20-30 cm.
• Incorrectly set direction of growth. The plant twists clockwise for a reason: even ancient people believed that everything growing moves and develops in this direction. When twisted counterclockwise, the bushes grow worse.
• Fastening. If the top of the trunk suddenly dried up, then this is the result of an incorrect, too tight garter. The stem growing and increasing in thickness is simply squeezed. Slipknot is also a bad option. Ideally, when the distance between the plant (stem) and the support reaches one finger in diameter or slightly less. Tie the knots towards the support.
• Materials. Experienced gardeners do not recommend using metal elements such as wire or lattice.