How to pinch cucumbers?

Grazing is an important part of growing cucumbers. This procedure allows not only to make the bush more compact and simplify its care, but also significantly affects the quantity and quality of the fruits obtained.

To determine the need for pinching, one should understand what, in general, is the essence of this process. According to the biological description, cucumbers have one main shoot extending directly from the root. It is usually called a whip, and, as a rule, most of the fruits ripen on it. Those stems that are on the sides of the central specimen are called stepchildren. They look as if they are growing out of the "bosom" between the main shoot and the leaf.

The lateral shoots receive nutrition through the main stem, thereby taking up those nutrients for their growth that could be directed to the formation of the cucumbers themselves. Thus, removing stepchildren allows you to direct all resources to the main task. This procedure is considered to be part of the formation of the plant. It should be mentioned that picking cucumbers is not always necessary. For example, if no more than 2 side shoots are observed on a bush, then they will not cause much harm to the culture.

However, in some cases, the procedure is indispensable. For example, this is relevant for small-sized greenhouses and greenhouses, whose internal space is simply not enough for growing shoots. Active intervention is also necessary in the case of thickening of the plantings, which can become an ideal springboard for the development of diseases and the vital activity of insects. Once formed, the main stems begin to receive more light and oxygen. It makes sense to carry out pinching in cases where it is required to increase the yield of the crop, achieve an early harvest, or reduce the size of the specimen to facilitate caring for it.

It is customary to carry out pasyncuring in two main ways. In the first case, all unnecessary processes coming from the sinuses should be removed, starting with the nodal loop of the main lash. In the second, the lateral shoots have to be torn from the axils of the first 5-6 leaves, and the rest are left, after which the ovaries in the first 3-4 leaves are also eliminated. The second option is relevant in the case when a sufficient distance is maintained between the individual bushes, since it allows them to be increased in width. The first - it is customary to choose for densely planted cucumbers, which, after processing, begin to stretch upward. In both cases, those stepsons whose length does not go beyond the boundaries of 3-6 centimeters are subject to removal.

To properly cut off cucumber stepchildren, it is wiser to use one of the existing schemes.

Those varieties that live freely, without tying up in the open field, are allowed, in general, not to pinch. However, if the plant is fixed on a support, then it is better to form its main shoot, and to clear the sinuses from the processes. You can also remove not all stepchildren, but leave a few small ones containing no more than 6 nodes - this method is suitable for hybrids or varieties pollinated by insects. A good solution is to form an inverted pyramid on the open ground.In this case, the 1st and 2nd sinuses are cleared from the stepsons, and in the 3rd and 4th they are pinched to a couple of knots. All subsequent processes are allowed to reach a length of 40 centimeters.

Self-pollinated varieties are proposed to be placed on a triangular support. In this case, having risen 30-40 centimeters above ground level, you will need to cut off all the leaves. From 40 to 80 cm, stepchildren are completely cut off, but leaves and ovaries of the main stem are left in a ratio of 1: 1. Height from 80 to 120 cm requires the preservation of 1 ovary and a leaf already on the lateral shoots. The stepsons themselves pinch, reaching a length of 20 centimeters. At a height from 120 to 150 cm, lateral shoots already retain 2-3 ovaries and 2-3 leaves, and everything else is pinched. Finally, everything above is kept unchanged.

A greenhouse or greenhouse often uses a “grandfather's” pruning scheme, ideal for highly branching bee-pollinated varieties. You should start by removing all shoots that have arisen up to 4 leaves. Further, after waiting for the formation of 7-9 leaves, you will have to pinch the main stem. At this stage, it is customary to leave the three strong side shoots, and remove the rest. On the remaining stepsons, 4 knots are left, after which they must be pinched. In order for the "old-fashioned" scheme to work optimally, you should also place a grid near the plantings, along which the lateral processes can crawl up.

It is simple and affordable to follow the classic indoor pinning scheme. With its help, it will be possible to arrange parthenocarpic hybrids, as well as those results of selection that are pollinated by bees and branch out in moderation. Following the algorithm step by step, you should start work only when the main lash stretches up to 50 centimeters and forms the first 3-4 leaves. At this stage, absolutely all stepchildren and the rudiments of the ovaries should be cut off, but the leaf blades should be left.

The height of the plant, equal to one and a half meters, is a signal that only 2 leaves and two ovaries should be left on the side shoots, eliminating all the rest. Finally, the number of knots is reduced to 3 pieces, and when the bush stretches out 2 meters, pinching will have to be stopped altogether by throwing the lash over the trellis, or by pinching it.

For cultivation of parthenocarpic varieties on a trellis, the "Danish umbrella" was invented. This scheme requires to divide the main branch into three parts: the first will contain from 1 to 5 leaves, the second - from 5 to 9 leaves and, finally, the third - from 9 to 20 leaves. The first is freed from everything: from all lateral shoots, and from the ovaries. On the second, the stepsons are completely cut off, and one ovary is left for each knot. The most difficult thing is with the third fragment: from 9 to 14 leaves, 2 ovaries are preserved in each sinus. In the 14th bosom, the ovaries are removed, but the stepson remains. In the future, when a pair of leaves forms on it, you need to pinch it.

From 15 to 20 sinuses, processing is carried out in the same way, but 2 short stepchildren are already preserved, between which there is at least one node. The stepson in the 20th bosom does not touch, but pinches when he reaches 8 full-fledged leaves. Upon completion of the procedure, the main lash is placed on the trellis. Leaves are counted from its top, and the second is determined. The stepson, appearing from his sinus, does not touch until 5 leaves are formed, and then pinches. The continuation lashes are allowed to form three stepsons of the second stage, on which, after the third leaf, the growth point is generally removed.

Finally, in the greenhouse, it is convenient to adhere to the "One lash" scheme, developed for bouquet and bundle parthenocarpic varieties, but not suitable for those varieties that are pollinated by insects. All lateral stems and ovaries are removed to the bosom of 4 leaves, and from 4 to 17, the stepsons are cut off, and the ovaries are preserved. Those processes that form between the 18th and 20th sinuses are pinched up to 2 leaves. The cucumber lash is fixed on the trellis, and its top is pinched when the required length is reached.

Cucumbers selected for pinching require special care. It is better to water the treated bushes only with water taken from a lake or river. This variety contains a minimum amount of salt, which negatively affects plants. If you still have to use tap water, then it must be allowed to settle - to collect in the evening, and leave until morning. It is equally important that the liquid is not cold, since the icy moisture injures the roots of the cucumbers, as a result of which the development of the culture slows down, and the taste characteristics of the fruits deteriorate.

It is not necessary to strongly heat the water - it is enough to let it warm up naturally for several hours, placing it in the sun, putting it in a greenhouse or bringing it into the house. The optimum temperature is recognized as the one that does not go beyond the range of 18-20 degrees. Too hot liquid will also negatively affect the condition of the cucumbers. It will be correct to water the plants after pinching in the morning - this way the water will be several degrees warmer than the earth.

When the bushes stop forming ovaries, which usually happens in the second half of summer, they will need to be fed. Many gardeners prefer a folk recipe that requires soaking fish waste in water maintaining a 1: 2 ratio. The mixture is left in the dark and warm until foam appears, and then supplemented with ash so that a glass of powder is poured into each liter. The stream of the resulting mixture is sent to the root, after which you can proceed to pinching. To prevent fungal spores from getting into the wound of the stem, it can be sprayed with copper-containing "Oxyhom". By the way, after the procedure, it will be useful to remove dried, damaged or diseased leaves.

The ground near the cucumber bushes should be regularly loosened, especially on hot days, when the dried soil rapidly turns into a crust that does not allow oxygen to pass through. It is equally important to eliminate weeds that deprive the crop of nutrients. Passionking, which is a stressful procedure, is best accompanied by feeding the crop.