How to plant daffodils?

Picturesque delicate daffodils are frequent inhabitants of gardens and summer cottages, they adorn private courtyards and city parks, lawns near administrative buildings, central city streets. This popularity is due to the decorative culture and ease of maintenance. However, in order to obtain beautiful flowers, it is important to pay special attention to the planting stage.

It is allowed to plant bulbs at different times of the year, but in each case the procedure has its own characteristics. So, the most suitable time is late summer or early autumn. Many summer residents begin planting in mid-August and during the first weeks of September - it is at this time that the root shoots develop most actively.

Planting culture is possible in the spring, but this is not the best time. If the summer resident missed the autumn period and postponed the procedure to spring, then it is important to harden the planting material for 2-3 weeks. To do this, you can place the bulbs on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, but do not overdo it with hardening and do not put the planting material in the freezer, otherwise low temperatures will lead to the death of the seedlings.

If the plant is planted in spring, then the most favorable month for this is mid-April, since during this period the snow has practically melted. It is undesirable to be late with the spring planting and postpone the procedure to May or even June.otherwise, the grower will subsequently receive weak plants without flowering during the first two seasons. If the bulbs or flowers are driven out at home in a pot, then planting in any case is done in the spring - this is the only way to save the specimens, but they will bloom only next year.

In the southern regions, planting in October or November is also allowed. In cold areas, when planted during these months, the bulbs will not have time to adapt to the climate and take root in the frozen soil. Alternatively, with such a late planting, you can insulate the seedlings with a shelter, which is usually removed only with the onset of spring.

Generally when choosing a planting date, it is very important to take into account climatic conditions... For example, in the middle lane, it is recommended to determine the preferred planting time by ground temperature. Daffodils will take root well if they are planted in soil with indicators of 8-10 degrees above zero. Usually this is the very optimal time - August-September. The same period is favorable for the Moscow region, but sometimes weather surprises can shift the dates. For example, if the heat is abnormal during these months, you can plant flowers a couple of weeks later.

The earliest of all to plant bulbs is recommended for the inhabitants of the Urals and Siberia, since there are low temperatures already in early August. The maximum landing time in these areas is until August 15-20, and then in case of warm weather.

Particular attention should be paid to the location during the landing stage. In general, it is believed that daffodils do not impose strict requirements on lighting performance, however, as practice shows, in partial shade they feel more comfortable than in direct sunlight. But it is not recommended to completely close the flowers from the sun, therefore, flower beds next to buildings, fences, trees, large plantings will become a good location. True, when choosing a site, it is worth considering the characteristics of the variety. Daffodils have individual light-loving varieties, which are usually grown in open spaces under the scorching rays of the sun.Choose a location that is well protected from wind and drafts.

This culture is not too whimsical to the soil, but in an excessively poor soil, the plants lose their vitality and cease to bloom. This is due to a deficiency of nutrients and chemical elements. Sandy lands are not very suitable for a plant, since they do not retain heat with the onset of frost, which means that the bulbs can freeze. The acidity and structure of the soil for this crop is not so important.

Planting technology, in fact, is standard, and even a novice summer resident can handle this process. Correct phased planting is as follows.

• Dig up the selected area well and carefully loosen the soil. If necessary, add some coarse sand or a suitable fertilizer mixture to the soil.
• Make holes for planting the bulbs. The depth is determined by the size of the tuber multiplied by 3. The standard dimensions of an adult planting material are 10-13 cm, that is, the depth of the planting hole will be 30-40 cm. However, if the flowers are planted in light soil, then this is done deeper - the depth parameters of the hole in this case should be increased by another 5 cm.
• A gap of 15-20 cm should be observed between the two pits.If these are miniature varieties, then a distance between tubers of 10 cm is allowed.If the plant is planted to receive babies, then the gap between the bulbs should be at least 25 cm - then the culture will grow well and give quality offspring.
• Place a little sand at the bottom - it will serve as a drainage system, and also prevent the excessive impact of the added dressings on the bulb.
• Place the onion in the prepared hole so that the roots point downward.
• Moisten the flower bed a little and cover the area with a mixture of sand and garden soil.

For planting with seeds, planting material should be collected in summer or late autumn. Sowing can be done before winter in open ground or planted in boxes and planted in a greenhouse. The seeds deepen by 1-1.5 cm at a distance of 10 cm from each other. If the flower is grown at home, then it should be a dark, cool place.

Next, the gardener will have to take careful care of the plant. With the right approach, his garden will be decorated with charming fragrant flowers for a long time. It is customary to care for the culture.

• From the end of spring, it is important to regularly water the flower garden as long as the aboveground part exists. At the end of the flowering period, moisture will help the bulb to stock up on an abundance of nutrients. Each watering procedure should be completed by loosening the soil and weeding. An exception is a mulched bed.
• The duration of the flowering period largely depends on the temperature indicators of the air and soil. The culture develops well when the air temperature is +15 degrees and the earth temperature is +10 degrees.
• If daffodils are grown in the front garden, then they need to be fed twice in the spring. During the budding period, fertilization with mineral complexes is recommended. Can be diluted in 1 tsp. superphosphate, potassium sulfate and urea in 10 liters of water and feed the plant with the resulting solution. Also, gardeners are advised to feed the culture with special mixtures for flowering plants containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. In cloudy weather in early spring, dry fertilization is recommended.
• These representatives of the flora are not too resistant to diseases. Most often they fall prey to fusarium and rot.Of the pests, daffodils, hoverflies, onion and root mites, slugs, and nematodes love to feast on daffodils more than others. For prophylaxis, it is recommended to treat the specimens with insecticidal acaricidal agents before the formation of buds. After flowering, flowers should be sprayed with a solution of copper sulphate or HOM.
• If there is a decline in the development of flowers and a loss of quality properties, then the plants should be transplanted. The transplant is carried out by a vegetative propagation method, that is, by dividing the bulb.
• So that the plant does not waste its energy in vain, it is required to timely eliminate its fading buds - future seed boxes.

If the shoots do not sprout, the buds do not develop, the flowering does not differ in abundance and color, or is completely absent, then, most likely, the gardener made some inaccuracies when growing or planting.

A common mistake of novice summer residents is negligence in the choice of planting material. So, it is recommended to buy bulbs in late August or early September... When buying seedlings in spring or late autumn, there is a chance to become the owner of low-quality planting material that will not give beautiful flowers.

When choosing bulbs, it is important to visually examine all specimens carefully. Healthy onions are distinguished by the presence of dry scales of brown or golden color, they are dense to the touch, have a smooth dry bottom without defects, there should be no spots, dents, sediment, mold or other imperfections on the surface. A competent choice of planting material is the key to lush and abundant flowering.

It is a mistake for gardeners to buy the wrong bulbs. Do not take tubers that have already hatched a sprout, as well as specimens dug up with stems and flowers. If the bulb is surrounded by small bulbs, then this sample should also be bypassed. If only specimens with mechanical damage remain as planting material, then soak them in a weak solution of potassium permanganate before planting.

Another mistake is the complete absence of a transplant. Even those varieties that do not need this procedure at all require transplanting every 4-5 years. This manipulation will improve the quality of the planting material, strengthen the immunity of plants, and promote good flowering.

Some gardeners make mistakes when digging up the bulbs for storage. It is imperative to wait until all the leaves of the culture are completely covered with yellowness, and only then dig up the specimen. The fact is that in the process of drying, the leaves redistribute the accumulated mineral reserves to the underground part of the plant. Therefore, after waiting for complete wilting, the gardener will receive a healthy promising bulb.

Violation of the rules for storing bulbs is also a common mistake. If you leave them in direct sunlight for a long time, they can get burned. The tubers of the culture already have a weak resistance to exposure to ultraviolet radiation and can dry out under its influence.

For information on when and how to plant daffodils correctly, see the next video.