Growing onions

Content
  1. Timing
  2. Planting methods
  3. Care
  4. How to transplant to a new location?
  5. Diseases and pests
  6. Harvesting and storage

The onion, or fisty onion, is planted to obtain green mass. This culture can be found in the wild, but it is always more convenient when a storehouse of vitamins is at hand. It contains more nutrients than regular onions, but the lower part is practically not formed.

The value is in the high content of sugars, essential oils, ascorbic acid. By the way, there is twice as much ascorbic acid in a batun than in a regular onion. The feather appears almost as soon as the snow melts. In the article, we will tell you about the methods of planting batuna onions, about how to care for them so that the plantations give a good harvest.

Timing

Batun onions are considered a universal crop in terms of sowing dates... Naturally, the winter period is an exception, and the rest of the time you can plant. Of course, in the summer, you should avoid extreme heat: if you do not provide the seeds with proper watering in the heat, they will simply steam under the cover of the soil and will not sprout.

The optimal timing is any month of autumn or spring. In the spring-autumn period, the soil is quite well moisturized, and the seeds germinate quickly. In winter, you can sow seeds for seedlings in a greenhouse in order to get fresh greens as quickly as possible, this is best done in early January.

Planting methods

This perennial plant is grown in several ways: you can sow seeds directly into open ground, and propagate by dividing the bush and seedling. In the latter case, the scheme is as follows: seeds are sown in a greenhouse at the beginning of the second month of winter, then they are transplanted in the earliest period of spring, when the snow has just melted.

In this case, you will get early greens. You can sow seeds before winter (they will withstand temperatures and -30 degrees), and then the feather will also grow early. But if you forgot to do this, or there was no time, then use the seedling method of propagating this type of onion.

In general, having planted a trumpet onion on the site for at least 5-6 years, you can not worry - this is a perennial plant, and it will grow from year to year: the greens will break through immediately after the snow melts. Young feathers are ready to withstand even frost, down to -8 degrees.

Let's take a closer look at the landing methods.

Seeds

I must say right away that planting seeds in open ground will allow you to collect the green mass in full only after several years. You can germinate the "blackness" of a batun, but this process is rather long - the onion seed takes a long time to germinate. And you win only a week, that is, the sprouts will break through only 7 days earlier than when they are planted directly into the ground.

Experienced gardeners soak "nigella" for 30 minutes in a warm manganese solution of a light pink hue. Thanks to this procedure, the seeds swell a little and are disinfected. Then they are sown in the ground and, if necessary, watered. But if you have time, then act according to all the rules.

  1. First, soak the seed in a manganese solution for 30-40 minutes.

  2. Then rinse them with settled water.

  3. Fold the cheesecloth in several layers and wrap the seeds.

  4. The gauze is placed in a container with lukewarm water (no more than +30 degrees) for 24 hours. In this case, the water must be changed every 8 hours.

  5. After the specified time, the gauze must be pulled out and squeezed well, the seeds must be removed and dried.

The onion seed should be crumbly again - in this form it is sown in the ground, watered, and after 6-7 days the first shoots are obtained.

Seedlings

"Chernushka" for seedlings is sown at the beginning of January in a greenhouse complex, and in the middle of summer they are harvested. But in this case, the batun is completely removed with the bulb, the seedling method does not allow growing the fistus as a perennial plant.

Seeds for seedlings are sown in soil, consisting of half from ordinary soil, 30% humus or compost base, and 10% each of sand and rotted sawdust (or agroperlite). In addition, fertilizers are not added for the reason that all the necessary nutrients are in the humus (or compost).

And the reserves in the seed itself are enough for good germination. The seed should be processed in the same way as described above. Seedlings are grown either in cups, pots, or in long baths. The container at the bottom should have holes for excess liquid to drain off when watering.

The "nigella" of the trampoline is sown no deeper than 3 cm. The seedlings feel good at a temperature of 6-12 degrees Celsius... In such conditions, in April, it is already possible to plant it in an open area, leaving 10-12 cm between the bushes, and up to half a meter between the rows.

Do not worry if after some time after transplanting the seedlings, they all lie down - this is a normal reaction to the change of "habitat", after 2-3 days the bushes will take root, adapt and straighten.

Care

It is not difficult to cultivate and care for a pipe onion: the agricultural technique is the same as for an ordinary onion. There are nuances, of course, but they are not so significant. Let's consider each agrotechnical technique separately.

Watering

In order for the onion to grow well on the garden bed after transplanting seedlings from the greenhouse, watering is done only when necessary. If we are talking about growing in open ground, then a measure is also needed here: it is enough to water the crops so that the earth is moistened within 20 cm in depth.

In normal weather, 2 waterings per week will satisfy the plant's moisture needs, but if the weather is dry, you will most likely need to water every other day. It is better to do this in the morning or in the evening. Just do not allow waterlogging of the soil.

Loosening

The soil will have to be loosened constantly after each watering or rain in order to prevent the formation of an earthen crust. This is important for aerating the soil and preventing the formation of fungus. The procedure must be followed carefully, especially when the bow just came out in the form of needles.

Thinning

Thinning is an important procedure in the cultivation of onion. No wonder it is called fisty: feathers should have a place where they grow. As soon as the "needles" sprout, let them straighten, and engage in thinning.

Leave at least 1 cm (and preferably 2 cm) between the plants, pull out the rest of the shoots. The same thinning is carried out in greenhouse conditions, if the seedlings are grown in elongated large containers, and the seeds are planted in the grooves.

Subsequently, thinning occurs at the expense of harvesting. Where the batun grows too densely, more powerful bushes are pulled out by the roots.

Pruning

The leaves of the batun can be cut a little at any age, but they are removed en masse when they have reached at least 25 cm in length. If you let the growth of this onion take its course, you can make 2-3 foliage pruning, and up to 5 for the one you are looking after.

The maximum yield can be achieved only for 3-5 years of crop growth. You can cut the onion completely at a time, but experienced gardeners do not advise doing this. It is better to leave a certain amount of young greenery for further growth - this way it will be easier for the baton to recover after a massive harvest.

If you cut off the feathers before the frost is also not very correct, the plant will enter the winter exhausted. And yes, you need to leave some foliage for wintering. These feathers will die, they will have to be removed in the spring, but they will support the onion in the autumn-winter period.

Top dressing

Pistolized onions are fed immediately after the massive collection of foliage, that is, at least several times every six months, fertilizer must be applied to the plantation. In the first year, an infusion of mullein is made, diluted in a ratio of 1: 10 with water and watered.

When the fertilizer is absorbed, wood ash is added to the soil at the rate of 1 cup per square meter. In the second year, the same infusion of mullein is used, only less concentrated (diluted with water at the rate of 1: 15), but more ash component is added (without special restrictions - at the discretion of the owner).

On fertile soil, the onion will grow without top dressing, as soon as it needs nutrients, it will show it by its appearance: it will begin to turn yellow, slow down its growth, and so on. In this case, for emergency treatment, simply dilute 1 tablespoon of urea in a bucket of water and spill the beds.

Before and after any top dressing, the planting is watered abundantly, only they are not brought to waterlogging of the soil.

How to transplant to a new location?

The onion is transplanted by dividing the bush. The period from July to September inclusive is suitable for this. You need to dig out a bush, cut the root system, divide it into several parts, so that each has 3 children. And then the standard procedure: planting, watering.

It is better to plant the bush in a new place with tape. There must be a crumbly structure near the soil - this way the onion will be accepted better. To achieve the desired state, horse manure or rotted coniferous sawdust can be added to the soil in advance.

Diseases and pests

Pests can attack the onion, as well as other crops. He is also susceptible to diseases, therefore, there is no need to neglect prevention and care rules, especially during the growing season... Keep the beds constantly clean, do not allow the growth of weeds and swamps when watering.

If you start crops, they will certainly be affected. Onion fly infestation is the most common occurrence, although other harmful insects that do not disdain the onion smell are not averse to feasting on this crop.

Of the diseases, the fungus most often affects the onion. Periodic watering with "Fitosporin" will help prevent fungal infections in the beds. By the way, this preparation also well destroys onion fly larvae. You can also use folk remedies.

Harvesting and storage

Pistolized onions grow for about 6 months, and practically throughout this entire period, greens can be harvested at intervals of 20-30 days (if we are talking about mass harvesting). However, you can tear a few feathers for a salad at least every day.

If we are talking about final harvesting, then with the spring planting of the trampoline in mid-October, the onions can already be harvested. And if you planted it in the summer, then the crop will have to be harvested only in the spring. It is very important to cut the leaves correctly: it is recommended to do this with a well-sharpened object from the bottom up.

It is important not to damage the stem, the cut is made at the base of the leaf. If you want to remove more "fleshy" greens, water the plantation in the evening before harvesting, then the leaves will absorb moisture and become more elastic and juicy.

All foliage is usually cut when the length of the feathers reaches at least 25-30 cm. If the goal is not to leave flower arrows, then it is better to break them out as soon as they begin to appear. Onion greens are well stored in bunches in the refrigerator.

You can use plastic bags for storage, only they do not need to be tightly closed. The greens will lie like this for a week, but if you chop and freeze them, then you will always have green onion feathers on the pies.

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