Lily leaves turn yellow: causes and treatment

Lilies are one of the most beautiful flowers. A sophisticated and gentle culture can bring a lot of joy to its owners, but it is rather capricious in its care. And very often gardeners are faced with such a problem as yellowing of the leaves. Why this is happening, and what to do in this situation, we will consider below.

If the leaves of a lily turn yellow, this may be preceded by several moments at once.

As you know, the lily is a tropical plant that needs moist air. Such parameters are not always easy to provide, therefore both indoor and garden crops may begin to turn yellow from lack of moisture. In this case, both leaves at the top of the stem and below are affected. In addition, foliage can turn yellow and fall off from both insufficient and excessive watering.

In the event that the lily needs any element, it will show it with yellowness and curling of the leaves. It is very important in this situation not to go to extremes, and not to give the plant a dose in excess, since this will also not be beneficial.

• Iron - one of the most important elements of growth for any of the plants. With its help, photosynthesis takes place. If this element is not enough, the process slows down, and the foliage begins to lose color. Gradually, the leaves turn yellow, and then they may begin to fall off.
• Thanks to nitrogen the plant grows faster, stretches upward. If this element is not given, the culture will become weak, will not grow, the foliage will wither and begin to dry. But it is worth remembering that nitrogen is a rather dangerous substance, and its amount should be strictly controlled. If the lilies are overfed, the leaves will turn yellow and brown spots will appear on the bulbs. Such a plant will only have to be dug up.

Most diseases are the result of a gardener's mistake. Lily is a flower that rarely gets sick, but she is also not immune from ailments. Let's take a look at several common diseases due to which yellowing of foliage can be observed.

• Late blight. In another way, this disease is called bacterial rot. Most often late blight occurs due to the fact that the gardener constantly floods the soil in an effort to fully meet the plant's moisture needs. The bulbs begin to rot, and brown spots quickly spread on the foliage, turning yellow over time.
• Blue mold. Another ailment that appears as a result of excessive moisture. Its symptoms are very similar to late blight, only here stem drying is also traced.
• Fusarium. A dangerous and insidious disease that gradually affects the bulb. It becomes covered with dark areas, which eventually merge into a single spot, then rots and dies. It is interesting that by the look of the lily it is impossible to notice this, the ailment becomes visible only when the foliage begins to turn yellow and dry.
• Gray rot. This fungal disease thrives in hot and humid conditions. First, small watery spots appear on the leaves, then they dry out and turn yellow.
• Rust. A very common disease not only among lilies, but also among all summer cottage crops in general. It is very easy to recognize the ailment: you will see yellow-orange specks on the foliage in large quantities. This is the result of the work of a fungus, the bright red spores of which can be found here.

Gardeners, especially beginners, need to know that the reason for the yellowing of a lily is not always due to illness or lack of something. In some cases, pests may also be to blame, one of which is a nematode. This parasite lives between the scales of the bulb, and then, finding no resistance, moves into the soil surrounding the lily. Thanks to nematodes, the leaves of the plants are covered with brown patches, then they begin to turn yellow.

As soon as the cause of the yellowing is found out, you need to immediately do something, otherwise the plant may well die. The treatment for lilies will vary.

The first thing to do is to review the rules of care, especially watering. This crop is often watered, but a little, sprinkling is also very important, which helps to wash away dust and small parasites from the foliage. As for fertilizers, they are applied in a very metered manner. For example, plants are fed with nitrogen exclusively during the period of active growth. Before flowering, feeding is stopped, otherwise the buds will not appear, all the forces will go to a set of green mass. After flowering, you can feed it with complex fertilizers for lilies, as well as potassium.

When the cause lies in the disease, it is important to correctly calculate the disease. Unfortunately, most diseases are not cured, and the owners of the site simply uproot the lily, take it outside the garden and burn it. For example, blue mold is one such disease. All diseased flowers must be destroyed, otherwise the fungus will quickly spread to others.

Late blight in the initial stages is successfully treated with the use of strong fungicides, but if the plant gets sick during flowering, the buds and leaves affected by the fungus are collected and burned away from the beds. Rust is removed in the same way, but instead of fungicides, 1% Bordeaux liquid is used here, which is sprayed on healthy plants.

Fusarium is not cured, since it is found only in the final, most advanced stage. Sick specimens are dug up, only soaking in Fundazole will be prevention. As for gray rot, it is quite successfully treated with fungicides.

To get rid of the nematode, experts recommend dressing the soil from time to time. In addition, regular weed cleaning and mulching will be a good help in solving the problem. In the most severe cases, insecticides will help. They will also be the solution to the problem with other pests. From folk methods of struggle, you can use sticky traps, soap or garlic solution, manual collection of insects.

So that home garden lilies never suffer from yellowing and falling leaves, the gardener needs to follow a few simple rules.

• Choose the right fertilizer. Experts do not recommend using organic matter in this case - for example, fresh compost can burn the roots and trunk.
• Watch the acidity of the soil. The correct reading is in the 4-6 pH range. If the rate is higher, liming will have to be done.
• Avoid crusting and cracking on the ground. This will prevent adequate oxygen from penetrating the soil.
• Carry out preventive examinations of the lower and upper leaves. On their reverse side, it is often possible to detect and neutralize parasites in time.
• If the plants are weak, they need to be helped and fed with immunomodulators.
• Before planting lilies, the seed should be decontaminated, like the soil.
• In the event that the plant is ill with fungal ailments and must be destroyed, it is recommended to change the topsoil, since the fungus parasitizes there. For greater confidence, lilies and other bulbous crops are not advised to plant in this area for another 3 years.
• The leaves can turn yellow and the buds fall off from a simple excess of the sun. If you live in an area where the sun bakes regularly, foliage can get burned. This happens when the gardener waters the flowers during the day, in the heat. A good solution would be to plant flowers in light partial shade or under a tree.

For information on why the leaves of a lily turn yellow and how to deal with it, see the next video.