How to make do-it-yourself speakers for a computer?

A homemade portable speaker (no matter where it will be used) is a challenge to manufacturers who require from one to ten thousand euros for a semi-professional Hi-Fi stereo set of home acoustics. One or a pair of homemade speakers with high-quality speakers at a price of 15-20 thousand rubles will cost 30-40 times cheaper.

Consumables that are required for do-it-yourself speakers.

1. Plywood, chipboard or fiberboard. If possible, use a natural board. For example, one of the boards might be a soiled cutting board in the kitchen that needs to be replaced long ago. Dirty, but still fresh enough boards need to be cleaned - the column should have a fresh look.
2. Epoxy glue or furniture corners. The second option is more preferable: furniture corners will help to disassemble the column in case of malfunction and replace a faulty functional unit or radio element. What can not be said about the glue: attempts to open it require sawing with a grinder, which, if carelessly moved, can easily damage one of the functional units during disassembly.

Certain radioactive elements are required.

1. Power Supply. Allows the speaker to be made active: it has its own power supply.
2. Amplifier. "Swings" the power of 0.3-2 W coming from the preamplifier of the PC sound card, TV or radio tape recorder, to the required number of watts.
3. The speaker itself. One broadband or several narrowband is used.
4. Volume control. All devices have their own, electronic adjustment. But it is more convenient to use a separate one.

You should stock up on the necessary tools.

1. Manual locksmiths - hammer, pliers, side cutters, flat and figured screwdrivers. A set of different screwdrivers can be used - electronics manufacturers are switching to multi-faceted bolts.
2. Grinder with a cutting disc for wood, jigsaw.
3. Hand or electric drill. To speed up the assembly, you will also need a screwdriver with a set of bits.

Computer speakers, being small-sized, do not require powerful speakers, the amplifier of which is powered by 12 or more volts of supply voltage. For such speakers, only five volts are enough, coming from a USB port or charging for a smartphone.

More powerful ones - to connect a TV, movie projector, radio - will require a separate power supply. It will take 10 or more amperes of current with a voltage of 12 V, as from a car battery, delivering up to hundreds of amperes.

Despite the use of plastic as a material for the body by many manufacturers, "homemade" make a "box" of wood or lumber based on it. All sides of the case are covered with a waterproof varnish.

The design of modern speakers does not use the empty space inside the box, filled with air and equipped with a low-frequency bass reflex to improve the transmission of low frequencies, but filling with damping material. The characteristics of modern branded speakers have improved so much that they can be freely "locked" inside.

To fine-tune the frequency response, provide an equalizer - several knobs that control individual audio frequency bands. If there is no such adjustment in the radio or music center, the amplifier circuit becomes a little more complicated. The microcircuit on the basis of which the amplifier is assembled has this function. For a PC or laptop, this need abruptly disappears - the Windows system provides a graphic virtual equalizer, for example, in the WM Player settings. Android tablets allow you to adjust the frequency response on any of the third-party applications.

For hollow speakers, a sound labyrinth is used inside - construction of internal walls located at different angles (internal acoustic calculation). This is an improved version that produces the most effective frequency response - without reprogramming the device that acts as a sound processor. Compared to the bass reflex, it avoids the air flow hitting one place at a significant volume, it is directed not forward, but backward. There is a window on the back and top of the case.

The manufacturing process is as follows. Make sure you have everything already prepared.

• Mark and cut plywood or chipboard (or natural wood) into fragments, guided by the drawing.

• Mark the holes for the speaker and regulator. Drill them out in a circle. Carefully punch out the discs to be removed and smooth the edges with a file, chisel, or grindstone. Try to see if the speaker and volume control will fit into the sawn gaps. If there are jams when trying to insert them there, undercut the obstructing protrusions.

• Mark the front edge for self-tapping screws or bolts holding the devices for their regular "ears". Mount the power supply and amplifier on the bottom or back of the future speaker. Glue the desired edges with a layer of damper, if the design provides for this.

• Start assembling. Connect the top, bottom, front, and back faces. This is best done with the outer corners. Some faces (except for one of the sidewalls) can be fastened with corners from the inside: only one of the sidewalls is collapsible from the outside, allowing access to the removal of other edges when repairing the column. Connect all functional units to each other according to the structural diagram. Check the correctness of the installation.

• Perform the first test by turning on the power and connecting the output from the audio source. Make sure the amplifier and speaker are working properly. Test the control by briefly making the sound extremely loud. The speaker should not produce audible distortion (whistling, humming, wheezing, etc.).

• For comprehensive testing, use a home computer, laptop, tablet or smartphone on which the frequency generator is installed, listen to the speaker for the absence of resonance emitted by poorly fixed speakers, factory defects in it and in the amplifying board. After making sure that the column is working properly, install the second side panel, thus closing the insides of the column completely. Repeat testing.

Place the speaker in the desired corner of the room or near any of the walls. Turn on the music and walk around the room listening to the sound. Move the speaker to the corner or location where it sounds best. This is called room acoustics. If there are two speakers, place them in the recreation area of ​​the room so that 3D stereo sound will show itself "in all its glory."

Place your speakers where they sound best.

Do not use speakers and PCs in a damp, dirty environment, or near a source of acid fumes. This will cause them to deteriorate prematurely.

Do not exceed the recommended volume. To eliminate the amplifier overload (and its frequent shutdowns due to overheating), use matching elements in the circuit. The speaker should not "wheeze", give out distortion ("emphasize" high frequencies and underestimate the level of low ones).

If the speaker is powered from a USB port, overloading the 5 V module due to a voltage “drop” may cause it to fail. Don't overload your laptop. The same applies to smartphone and tablet chargers.

See below for a master class on making speakers.