All about transplanting strawberries and strawberries

Strawberries may stop bearing fruit by the age of 4-5, so you need to worry about the formation of new strawberry plantations in advance. In the article, we will talk about how to properly transplant this berry culture, in what time frame these works are performed, and how to care for the seedlings.

Strawberry beds need to be periodically updated: the fact is that aging plants in Victoria (this also applies to garden strawberries) do not bear fruit so abundantly over time, and they endure the winter worse. If you want strawberries to constantly grow in your country house and delight you with a good harvest, they must be planted with young shoots in a new place. Experienced gardeners expect to have different-aged plantings on their site - this is a guarantee that there will be sweet and aromatic berries in every season. Strawberries can produce a crop in one place for a maximum of 4 years, and then it is desirable to transfer the culture to another place.

Strawberries may continue to bear fruit, but they will give fewer berries, and the fruits will no longer be so large. And the soil composition will change during this time, become more depleted and infected, which will certainly negatively affect the bushes. Repair strawberries, which bear fruit before frost, need to be replanted even more often, as they "suck out" nutrients from the ground more quickly.

It is better to transplant strawberries before flowering and after the last harvest, that is, 2-3 weeks before the appearance of the peduncle and 15-20 days after fruiting. Spring planting is considered the best when the soil is well moistened. And a good prospect awaits the seedlings ahead: over the summer they will get stronger, develop roots and lay the foundation for budding by the next season. The end of April, the beginning of May is the optimal time for transplanting strawberries and strawberries. But the soil is prepared for spring planting in the fall. The selected place must be dug deeply, all weeds and their roots must be removed, manure must be added (only rotted manure must be added), humus or compost composition can be used.

In the early days, it is advisable to water the seedlings so that they do not experience a lack of moisture, but excess moisture will lead to the formation of rot or mold, so monitor the condition of the soil. You can sprinkle the beds with ash - in addition to additional nutrition, strawberry seedlings will receive protection from diseases. An autumn strawberry transplant is done from late August to early September. There are also advantages to these terms: summer residents have more time, which means that the work will be carried out efficiently, and enough attention can be paid to new beds, and frequent rains at this time will replace watering. In addition, plants need time to adapt and take root before the cold weather, so such terms are fully justified for early autumn planting. 2 weeks before you decide to transplant, start preparing the soil.

If you decide to transplant strawberries in the fall, then in the summer you need to look closely at the bushes, which give a beautiful harvest. Two-year-old mother plants that have formed a sweet and high-quality berry (preferably with a high yield) are suitable. It is believed that the most effective is the spring planting of strawberries, but the fall is not so painful for the plants, and the summer resident has more time to care for the seedlings.

Rule number one is not to transplant strawberries and strawberries in sunny weather, this can destroy the shoots. Choose a cloudy day, or do it in the evening when the sun is less beating. It is advisable to follow other rules as well.

• Planting material must have at least 3 leaves and a root length of no more than 5 cm.
• In the case when the roots are longer, they must be cut off without regret, otherwise the young plant will not be able to develop normally.
• You will have to work "in the mud", as it is correct to shed the beds before planting.
• It is very important to properly deepen the seedlings when the "heart" (the growth point of the seedling) is at ground level. Planting too deep or too shallow will not allow the normal development of the bush, which will affect the yield.

If you do not use your own seedlings, but bought them, be sure to take measures to decontaminate them. It is enough to hold the roots of the seedlings for a quarter of an hour in warm water (heated to 50 degrees), then lower the root system in cold water for at least 10 minutes. Thus, you will carry out 2 activities for the plant at once: disinfection and hardening. There is another rule that is considered controversial: do not transplant a flowering plant. But, as they say, if you really want to, then you can.

In this case, you just need to dig up the roots with a large clod of earth, and if the root system turns out to be stress-resistant, then there is a good chance of getting a harvest in a new place. Another important point: it often happens that there is no additional space on the site, and there is simply nowhere to transplant strawberries. In this case, it is allowed to plant new seedlings in the old place, but subject to a number of measures to restore the soil: feeding it, disinfecting, and so on.

Propagating plants of the strawberry family with seeds is not a pleasant experience. First of all, the process is laborious, and young seedlings do not always inherit the varietal characteristics of the original source (mother plant).

Therefore, the most popular are 2 other methods:

• rooted with a mustache;
• are divided by mature bushes.

Let's consider each method in more detail.

The tendrils of strawberries and strawberries are quickly adopted, forming the same young plant. One bush is capable of producing 10-15 "babies". Here's how to transplant them correctly.

• It is better to choose shoots that already have root buds.
• They are pressed into the ground at a distance of about 25-30 cm from the "parent", or rooted in special pots with good soil.
• After 60-75 days, the seedlings are transplanted (it is better to do this with a clod of earth - this way they will take over faster).

In this way, bushes are propagated that give little or no whiskers. But it is better not to divide too old plants, the seedlings from them are of poor quality, and you can not wait for fruiting. It is enough to take just an adult bush and divide it into horns. From a large bush, you can get up to 8-10 seedlings, small plants are also suitable for separation, just in this case you will have less seedlings.

For transplanting strawberries, more cloudy weather is chosen. You need to cut off dried leaves, prepare the ground and the necessary tools. Follow these guidelines.

• It is better to choose bushes that have been bearing fruit for no more than 3 years.
• Choose a well-lit area that is sheltered from the winds.
• Soil preparation begins a month before transplanting: they dig up and apply fertilizers. You can scatter humus at the rate of 10 square meters of 1 kg of humus. Lime will help to reduce the acidity of the soil, it is applied based on the following proportions: 350-500 g per 1 square meter - it all depends on the acidity index.
• Before planting plants in a new place, the beds are watered.
• It is necessary to dig out the mother bush carefully so as not to damage the root system, it is advisable to rinse the roots under running water. This should also be done with caution.
• After that, the rhizomes are carefully divided (for this, they take a garden shears, a sharp knife, or simply separate them by hand).
• Small elevations are made in the holes at a depth of 30 cm.
• Straighten the roots in the hole with one hand, and hold the seedlings with the other. Sprinkle a new bush with earth and press lightly.
• The plants themselves are planted at a distance of at least 30 cm from each other, and the row spacing is from half a meter to 70 cm.

At the end of the work, the sprouts are watered, you can mulch with a peat composition.

After planting, it is important to care for the seedlings. To prevent it from wilting, at first you need to water it often (every other day, for sure, and in a drought and every day). And in order to maintain moisture in the soil, it is necessary to mulch the bushes. For this, hay, freshly mown grass, rotted manure are suitable. You can take sawdust and black film for this.

If, after all, we are still talking about additional feeding, then it is better to use organic matter as mulch. Although, according to some gardeners, in the first year, young plants do not need additional nutrition with useful elements. But the question is controversial: someone thinks that this is not superfluous. Be guided by the composition of the soil in the area where you planted the strawberries. If the land is depleted, additional recharge will definitely not be superfluous. By the way, strawberries themselves are very depleting of the soil, so they don't keep them in one place.

After 3-4 years, it is desirable to transplant strawberry plantations to a more saturated place, and instead of a berry culture, vegetables are planted, after fertilizing and disinfecting the soil. Do I need to loosen? If there is no layer of mulch on top, then after each watering, after the water has been absorbed and a light crust forms, carefully loosen the ground between the outlets.