How to grow a chrysanthemum from a bouquet at home?

Rarely has a gardener not noticed that chrysanthemums in bouquets last longer than other flowers, retaining their qualities and even blooming. Therefore, many people want to propagate them using cuttings. In this article, we will look at the nuances of growing chrysanthemums from a bouquet at home.

When buying flowers in a specialty store, you need to ask where they were grown. Imported plants are not suitable for cuttings, as they are treated with preparations that prevent germination and wilting. It is better to buy flowers from domestic producers that are not processed with preservatives.

But, according to the experience of flower growers, you can cut and grow flowers from chrysanthemums of Korean varieties with small flowers... With Indian large chrysanthemums, it is more difficult. Their reproduction is not always successful, since flowers are not always amenable to propagation by cuttings.

We need exactly that flower, the strong stem of which has just begun to lignify and has an average thickness. At the same time, it is important that he is healthy. Any signs of infection, rot, damage are excluded.

A stem with lateral shoots below the flower shoots will be a good planting material. They are the most viable and suitable for grafting. A flower whose stem has begun to turn yellow is not suitable for reproduction. Chrysanthemum with thick stems and dense internodes is not worth buying.

If it is decided to grow a flower from a bouquet that was presented, choose flowers with juicy stems. Chrysanthemums donated can give roots while standing in a bouquet. Their cuttings will preserve varietal characteristics, as well as the protective functions of the mother bush. For successful reproduction, you need to take healthy specimens.

You can start grafting after the flowers stand in the bouquet. Someone does not wait for this and picks up cuttings immediately after buying the flower they like. Cuttings are harvested from chrysanthemum branches with an average number of side shoots. Ideally, these are the lateral processes of the main stem, on which there are no flowers.

Unlike other shoots, their rooting is faster and more successful. Old or weak shoots will not have the strength to grow and root. Young shoots rarely take root. You need to choose those that have a rich color, sprouting from the axils of the leaves.

It is necessary to prepare the material for rooting correctly:

• the selected shoots are cut to 8-12 cm (depending on the size of the parent plant);
• trimming at an angle is performed in such a way that part of the uterine hemp remains at the bottom;
• each selected stalk should have 2-3 internodes and no more than two pairs of leaves;
• in order to ensure tillering of the cut parts, pinch the top;
• the flowering part, buds and flower heads are removed from the cuttings;
• from the lower part of the shoot, it is necessary to cut off the leaves, the upper pair is shortened by one third.

Such preparation will allow the plant to devote all its strength to the formation of roots, and not to the development of foliage.In order for the cuttings to give roots, they can be placed in filtered or settled water. They are placed in a previously prepared container with a water level of no more than 2-3 cm.

As needed, the water is replaced with fresh water, remembering to rinse the container itself (no more than once every 2 days). When it is necessary to accelerate the process of root formation, they create a greenhouse effect. For this take a high and transparent container, pour a little clean water into it, and then place the handle in it, closing the container with a lid or film.

Before the cutting is placed in water, it can be held for 2 hours in a solution of a rooting stimulator. You can use "Kornevin" or "Heteroauxin" for this. The selected drug is diluted in accordance with the instructions on the package.

At the very beginning, callus will appear on the handle, contributing to the healing of the cut wound. The roots will not grow from it, but from the bud, which is located on the shoot where the leaf petiole is attached to it. That is why you need to cut the cuttings correctly. Usually, the first roots appear as early as 6-7 days.

The optimal rooting period for chrysanthemums is considered to be the period from January to February. However, this period also depends on the time of purchase (donation) of flowers. If they were presented in winter, then the root system will be formed by the spring. Then they can be planted in the ground.

Rooted spring cuttings can be planted in flower beds in early fall. For example, if the shoots were cuttings in early spring, then they are planted in open ground in early September. Their adaptation will take place before the onset of cold weather. However, for the winter they will have to be covered with needles, fallen leaves or straw.

If rooting was carried out in the summer, the seedlings are placed in the ground no later than mid-autumn. Late planting will lead to freezing. In some regions of the country, it is useless to plant cuttings in the ground after September 15th. In this case, it is better not to risk it, but to let the plant overwinter in a flower pot. It will be possible to plant it next spring.

Chrysanthemum is considered an unpretentious flower. However, like any plant, it needs the right type of soil, optimal watering regime, the amount of light and care.

Chrysanthemum does not like acidic soil: it needs a slightly acidic or neutral substrate. If necessary, wood ash can be included in it. The seedlings need nutritious soil, so you will have to add humus, rotted compost and a little nitrophosphate to it. You can buy ready-made seedling soil or neutralized peat at a flower shop.

Suitable for rooting hydrogel, perlite and sifted sand. The mixture prepared in advance must be disinfected with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, and you can ignite it.

It is advisable to choose your own pot for each cutting. If the house does not have the required number of them, you can use ordinary seedling boxes. In order for the cuttings to give roots in the soil, they are planted in 6 cm increments. The containers for growing are selected spacious, since the roots of the chrysanthemum grow to the sides. The container should be low.

The first containers can be plastic (for example, from regular cut plastic bottles). It is more convenient to take out seedlings from them, and if necessary, you can cut them so as not to harm the roots. Drainage holes are required to drain excess moisture.

Chrysanthemums thrive in moderately humid climates. Therefore, cuttings planted in the soil must be moistened in a timely manner.Watering should be done only when the top layer of the earth dries up. If the room is hot, it is better to water the cuttings in the morning, using water at room temperature. It is important to protect the shoots from drafts.

Waterlogging is dangerous for the plant and can cause rotting of the shoots. This leads to the development of fungal infections.

When rooting, follow the correct growing conditions. The room temperature should be between +19 and +23 degrees. If the room is cooler, the rooting process will slow down. If it is hot, the cuttings may rot.

To create more comfortable growing conditions, you can cover the boxes or pots with plastic wrap.

Do not expose the cuttings on a windowsill flooded with sunlight. The plant loves light, but it should be diffused. If there is a lack of lighting, it can die, poorly lit places in the house are not suitable for its reproduction.

Rooting cuttings at home is easy. Cuttings planted directly into the soil are considered to be of better quality and more viable planting material. A phased rooting scheme looks like this:

• prepare plastic containers (pots) and soil;
• soil mixture is poured into the container, moistened;
• the cuttings are dipped in water, rooted, and planted in the soil;
• containers are covered with a film or a plastic bag;
• the containers are placed under diffused light;
• moisten the soil as needed.

Sprouted shoots are planted in a prepared substrate, deepening into it by no more than 3-4 cm. The soil at the planting site is moistened, conditions are created for the stem, as in a greenhouse.

It is not difficult to germinate cuttings planted in the ground: one must not forget about watering, airing, temperature, lighting. It is important to periodically remove the film, ventilating the "greenhouse" and removing condensation. The fact that the root system has appeared and is developing will be indicated by growing young leaves. However, before planting in open ground, the plant will have to be transplanted into a separate container.

It is necessary to provide the plant with the best conditions for the formation and development of the root system. In order for side shoots to appear, and the bush becomes lush, it is necessary to pinch the top. As soon as the first leaves appear, you can add top dressing. This will allow the root mass to grow more quickly. However, nitrogenous fertilizing must be dosed.

We must not forget about the timely loosening. The root system must breathe, so it develops faster. If you are afraid of damaging the roots, you can resort to mulching.

After 2 weeks from the moment the first leaves appear, you can start feeding the petioles with minerals. Fertilizers are suitable for flowering plants. However, in order to prevent root burns, top dressing must be diluted more than usual. Solutions should be weaker than the specified values ​​in the instructions. The fertilizer should not be allowed to get on the leaves.

It happens that after transplanting into soil from water, the plant begins to wilt. Thin root hairs disappear in the soil - they dry out in the ground. In this case, an intermediate transplant is necessary.The substrate is poured into the container, slightly compacted, watered.

Then a small depression is made in the center and a cutting is placed in it. Fill the depression with vermiculite, it will absorb water and prevent the fine hairs from drying out. After the bush grows, it can be planted in a flowerbed or transplanted into a larger pot and grown as a houseplant.

They begin to transplant into open ground approximately when the rooted plant gets stronger. However, in order for this process to proceed less painfully, the chrysanthemum is gradually hardened. Approximately 2 weeks before disembarkation, it is taken out onto the balcony (street) or a window is opened indoors. In the first days, the flower is tempered for no more than 30 minutes, each time the time is gradually increased, in the end it should be about 8 hours.

If the planting time is in the spring, it is necessary to start it no earlier than the soil thaws. In addition, the seedlings should not freeze - it is important to wait until the frost is gone. You can make a temporary shelter from bad weather and cold.

It is better to do this in cloudy weather with barely drizzling rain. So the plant adapts better to new growth conditions. The place needs to be selected well lit and high so that moisture does not stagnate in it. A few days before planting, the soil is dug up, including peat or ash, nitrophosphate into it.

A drainage layer is added to the wells, plants are planted in increments of 30-40 cm. You can transplant seedlings directly from a lump of earth by transshipment. This makes it easier to calculate the volume of the hole and reduce the likelihood of damage to the root system. After absorbing water, you need to mulch the soil. This will prevent the growth of weeds and reduce moisture evaporation.

How to root a chrysanthemum from a bouquet, see below.