Description and creation of wooden beds

A description of the features of wooden beds and their creation allows you to figure out exactly how to make them yourself for the garden. High beds of wood and other types of summer cottages definitely deserve attention. It is also worth figuring out the best way to process the boards.

Usually, the landing sites for summer cottages have to be marked annually. However, wood ridges effectively and gracefully solve this problem. There is also no need to dig excess land. Since the boundaries are clearly visible and well shown in place, there is no danger of accidentally trampling the plants. The rubber hoses will be located strictly in the corners of the wooden beds, so they will not cause damage to bushes and grassy crops.

An important plus is that all the water remains exactly in the delineated perimeter, and does not flow out of it indefinitely. Various supports can be easily attached to the frame of the ridge, which is useful when growing tall varieties. Raising the soil level allows you to bend less, which is very important for the elderly and those who suffer from back and joint problems. The organization of the garden is growing, the earth does not crumble anywhere. Weeding is noticeably easier.

The box can be safely placed not only on ordinary open ground or in a greenhouse, but also where there are a lot of stones, in other places that are usually not very suitable for farming. Arrangement of a structure made of boards will be inexpensive, and many old, but still strong specimens can be obtained at all free of charge. In terms of aesthetics, a fenced ridge looks better than just one in the ground. Some gardeners point out among the disadvantages that the wooden beds are often inhabited by ants, and it will be impossible to destroy such anthills before the fruit is harvested.

It is not necessary to use a simple familiar tree. A good alternative is to use wood flour-filled composite lamellas. However, the use of various residues is more often implied:

• sawn timber waste;
• substandard wood;
• pieces of slab.

You can also use lining, round timber or timber. You can create beautiful beds from oak or ash. Yes, such materials are expensive, but their high cost is compensated by a rather long service life and efficiency of use. Pine board is easier to process, it costs less. However, the usage time is not too long, which is often frustrating.

Many believe that the best option is to use larch and cedar... They contain a sufficient amount of resins so that resistance to negative environmental factors is guaranteed without additional processing. Cedar is not as resinous as larch. However, it is more cost effective and lasts about the same amount of time.

Everyone knows that wood in the ground can rot easily. And the higher the humidity, the more active this process is. However, it is quite possible to solve the problem.Special processing allows to increase the service life up to 10 years. The effect of drugs must be evaluated without fail. Often, it is better not to use even reliable products on their own, because they include toxic components.

Do not hope that the composition is "applied only to the surface from the outside." Wood is hygroscopic - everything that they try to saturate with will pass through it. Therefore, it can negatively affect the grown plants.

This composition allows you to stably protect the tree from direct contact with:

• soil;
• organic residues;
• atmospheric precipitation.

Another way to protect wood from rotting is to treat it with a combination of propolis (1 share) with 3 parts of vegetable oil. Both components are thoroughly shaken and applied to previously cleaned surfaces. You need to process the material 2 times. The combination of propolis with oil is excellent against fungal attack. The downside is that the “cover and forget” option will not work, the processing will have to be repeated quite often.

The alternative is using beeswax. It is quite environmentally friendly and affordable. In addition, such a remedy is really effective. You can also mention the options for processing with copper sulfate and lime (the latter is used in a diluted form, in the manner of whitewashing). Finally, you can paint your wooden beds with oil paint.

Some people use the Finnish method. It involves the preparation of a heated paste. To cook it, use:

• 0.5 kg of table salt;
• 0.8 kg of flour (wheat or rye - does not matter);
• 1.5 kg of copper sulfate;
• 1.5 kg of dry lime.

The configuration of wooden beds is usually selected individually. Most often, preference is given to the simplest system - a rectangle. Even a square has no obvious advantages over it. Triangular, polygonal and other intricate designs only make sense for space decoration. If ease of assembly and maintenance is in the first place, then you need to choose a rectangular view.

The width is usually 0.9-1.2 m. The wider ridges are inconvenient to maintain. The length does not have any restrictions, but it is best not more than 4-5 m. The optimal thickness of the boards is from 3.5 to 5 cm. With this indicator, a not too heavy and rather strong structure is obtained. The height - at least for cucumbers - should be between 0.2 and 0.8 m.

According to agronomists, everything above 0.3 m should be covered with insulation. In extreme cold, otherwise it is impossible to avoid through freezing. You must also understand that very high ridges inevitably put pressure on the frame from the inside. It will not be easy to avoid its deformation. If several ridges are organized at once, they also think over the comfortable dimensions of the passages between them.

Drawings of a very simple tall bed are available to anyone. Here is one such example. Even the lack of precise dimensions cannot be considered a serious drawback. You can pick them up yourself. The location of the boards for the sides and ends is clearly shown. You can also immediately understand where to put the wooden wedge.

In greenhouses ranging in size from 12 to 20 sq. m, you can equip 2 ridges with an interval of 50 cm. In another version, another 66-centimeter ridge is added. The thickness of the inner walls is 4 cm. The above drawing is suitable for the arrangement of the foundation and concrete paths. The ground level in greenhouses is also clearly shown.

For greens - lettuce, dill, parsley and so on - it is preferable to equip vertical beds. They are divided into clear tiers. Such structures are placed either along the walls of greenhouses, or next to stairs. For flowers, it is recommended to equip, again, multi-tiered structures.Such structures guarantee a spectacular decoration of the site.

The usual step-by-step instructions for making wooden beds are based primarily on the optimal choice of a place for it. It is recommended to choose areas that are well lit - at least 7 hours a day. Draft protection is also important. The optimal location is from south to north. The usual sequence of work:

• removal of a medium-sized layer of sod;
• digging in support pillars at the corners;
• measuring distances with a tape measure;
• connecting boards with nails or self-tapping screws;
• covered the boxes from the inside with geotextile.

The device of high ridges from ordinary boards is quite possible. To build them correctly, you need to do everything "for yourself", that is, with your own size. The width is usually determined as follows: they sit next to the chosen place on a chair or stool and stretch out their hand. By doubling the figure obtained, it will be possible to make a bed that is convenient for weeding and loosening on both sides. The soil for filling is collected in the garden, chopped branches from the garden bushes are placed at the very bottom, and the second layer will be partially rotted humus.

It is useful to provide a "bench-board". When using it, you can achieve excellent results without taking additional seats. It should be borne in mind that high ridges often suffer from rapid drying out of the soil. The reason is simple - the ground in them warms up much faster.

Such designs are distinguished by increased decorative properties. For work you need to prepare:

• saw a hacksaw or jigsaw;
• edged board;
• screwdriver with a set of self-tapping screws;
• locksmith's ruler;
• pencil.

It is recommended to make cuts on the boards at sharp angles, and then this will allow the pieces to be joined more easily. The basis for the structure is a rail fixed from all sides. After the design of the frame, you need to measure the length of the slats. They are placed in increments of 28 to 30 cm. Fixation is performed after cutting off the ends at an angle of 30 degrees.

When preparing wood beds for the garden, you can use a decking board. Yes, it costs many times more than usual. However, the likelihood of rotting is reduced to almost zero.

In some cases, especially with maximum insulation, the height of the box can reach 70 cm. This approach involves dividing the structure into several levels. The greater the "growth" of the assembly, the more difficult it is to do everything so that it is not bursting literally from the inside during temperature fluctuations. Warm beds can be placed in various ways, taking into account the sun-loving or shade-loving specific crops.

Before starting the installation, the base is cleaned and leveled. Corner bars placed along the edges of the box must be hammered into the ground by 10-15 cm. Then the first tier of boards is laid out, attached to the corner bars. Important: every 1.5 m in length, an intermediate bar must be nailed down and boards must be attached to it. This approach minimizes the risk of bursting the boxes and guarantees an elegant appearance.

Before installing the second level of the boards, everything must be carefully checked by level. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws. Geotextiles are attached to the sides with a construction stapler. Such material will eliminate the germination of weed roots and the formation of colonies of microorganisms. 4-5 cm of pebbles or small gravel are poured over the geotextile (this will be a drainage layer).

In places where moles, shrews and mole rats are likely to appear, it will be quite correct to put a frequent galvanized mesh under the geotextile. It will also have to be attached to the sides. The usual scheme for filling a wooden ridge:

• water-permeable layer (10 cm);
• organic matter (compost, bird or cow manure);
• additional water-permeable layer;
• organic mass with mineral additives;
• high-quality fertile soil with a thickness of 10-15 cm.

Cover the structure from above with dark polyethylene or dark spunbond. In some cases, structures are made from pallets. They are not only visually beautiful, but also easy to use, initially symmetrical, allow you to refuse additional finishing touches or reduce them to a minimum.

It is most correct to lay the pallets flat. The soil is dug up in advance and saturated with useful substances. Only then are the pallets placed. Most often, the space inside is saturated with black soil. Keeping the pallet in an upright position is possible with:

• legs;
• props;
• hanging on the fence.

It is very important to ensure that the distance between the beds is optimal. Be sure to take into account the compatibility of different species with each other. If you can approach the selected site from 2 sides, then the width varies from 0.7 to 1 m. A width of more than 1 m is undesirable in any case. If the garden bed can only be approached from 1 edge, it should have a width of 0.5-0.6 m.

For information on how to make wooden beds, see the next video.

It is generally believed that wood structures last up to 10 years. But a lot depends on the nuances of their use.... In case of refusal to treat with antiseptic agents, the service life is mainly no more than 2-3 years. It is undesirable to use birch, alder, linden, aspen and maple wood - because it is not reliable enough. It is believed that the time of using the boards, in addition to antiseptic treatment, depends on:

• occurrences of resin;
• the presence of tannins;
• storage conditions for lumber.

It is not enough to simply process the wood with various compounds with a brush. It is much safer to immerse it in the composition for several hours. The treatment is repeated twice or thrice. During breaks, the wood is dried. Hot bitumen used for processing the underground part of the boards lasts a long time, but environmental friendliness is not characteristic of it.

Among other drugs, the following are recommended:

• XM-11;
• Biosept-Ultra;
• Ecocept 440;
• NEOMID 430 ECO;
• HMF-BF;
• Pirilax.

Regardless of the preparation used, the wood must be dried in advance. All synthetic blends can be hazardous. Respirators, gloves and goggles are indispensable when working. Any cut and connection point will need to be handled. After processing, you should wait until the material is completely dry, and only then mount the bed.

You can do without synthetic impregnations. An excellent solution to the problem is wood burning. The best way to do this is with a gas burner. The surface should be charred by at least 2 mm. Fired boards are soaked in water or sprayed abundantly from a spray bottle. At the end of the work, they need to be dried and cleaned with a steel brush or a grinder.

If you additionally process the product with oil, then it will be possible to increase the service life several times. But when working, you need to keep a fire extinguisher and buckets of water ready. You can also increase the durability of the material by attaching dense polyethylene from the inside. To make the wooden beds last longer, it is recommended to disassemble them in the fall.