How to transplant a pear?

Content
  1. At what age can you transplant?
  2. Timing
  3. Site selection and pit preparation
  4. Transplant technology
  5. Follow-up care
  6. Possible problems

The pear is one of the favorite crops of many gardeners, who give it a place of honor in the garden. But it happens that the pear needs to be transplanted. In the article, we will tell you how to do this correctly so as not to violate the fruiting dates of this tree.

At what age can you transplant?

It is clear that the younger the seedlings (1-3 years), the better they will withstand the "stress" due to their transfer to a new habitat. This adaptation is a little more difficult for trees for 3-5 years, but adult plants have to endure a great load.

This is due to the fact that they already have a formed root system and when digging up there is a great risk of damaging it.

It is undesirable to transplant from one place to another only a recently planted tree. Not having time to get stronger, the seedling will completely lose its immunity with a new planting and either die or it will take a long time to recover.

Timing

The best time to transplant young seedlings is spring. This is done after the snow melts and before the beginning of the process of sap flow and the appearance of buds. But stronger trees can be planted in the fall: the end of October - the beginning of November is suitable for an autumn transplant.

Theoretically, planting can be carried out in winter in the absence of severe frosts, but it is better not to do this in practice. The roots can still freeze. Winter is still an unpredictable time of the year.

Site selection and pit preparation

Choose a place for re-transplanting a pear very carefully so that it can withstand this process and take root in a new habitat. First of all, you need fertile soil and protection from drafts. At the same time, if the neighboring trees shade it, it will direct all its forces to growing in height, and not to laying fruit buds.

By the way, it is better to be surrounded by the same pear trees, other varieties are possible - this is necessary for pollination.

You should not plant a pear near any stationary fences or buildings (in this case, it is advisable to maintain a distance of 5 m).

The depth of the planting pit depends on the distance of the groundwater, the composition of the soil, the type of rootstock. Under normal normal conditions, a hole is made so that the roots of the seedling fit freely there. In a sandy loam and loamy structure, a hole is dug to a depth of 1 meter and a diameter of at least 2 meters.

Preparation for transplanting a pear tree begins one month before planting. The dimensions of an ordinary pit are 0.7 m deep and 0.9 m in diameter, such a ditch is dug. At the bottom, you have to create a looser base, work with a shovel, loosening the soil.

If we are talking about a clay substance, then drainage is done in the form of expanded clay, broken brick. Fertilizer is added to the planting pit: compost mixed with a glass of superphosphate, wood ash will not be superfluous.

If you need to alkalize the soil, then proceed as follows: dissolve 2 cups of fluff (lime) in 10 liters of water and pour the mixture into a hole.

If you plant a pear in the place of occurrence of groundwater at a distance of at least 1.5 meters, you will have to build a planting pit from the embankment and make a kind of hill.

Transplant technology

Before transplanting a pear to another, new place, you need to lower the tree at least for a while in the water so that it can replenish the loss of moisture. This procedure is mandatory especially if the seedling was dug out well before planting.

The transplant technology is as follows.

  1. A pear tree is dug out together with a clod of earth and the soil adhering to the roots is not shaken out.
  2. Too long rhizomes can be cut off and treated with charcoal (wood or activated).
  3. In the prepared hole, a small elevation is made right in the center for better distribution of the root system in the hole.
  4. The pear is deepened along the root collar.
  5. Finish the planting with watering to eliminate the voids between the rhizomes.

For the next season, it is advisable to give the pear a nitrogen supplement, after another 3 years and then in each season it is fed with a mineral composition. Organic matter is added no more often than 3-4 years later.

Follow-up care

Care is an important part of the survival of the seedling. In this regard, pay attention to the pruning procedure: they do it both on the eve of planting (thin out the crown) and at the time of transplantation (get rid of dry branches, damaged parts, and also shorten what leads to thickening of the crown).

Correct pruning is a guarantee that the pear will quickly accept and adapt to new conditions for further growth and fruiting, and will not waste energy on unnecessary branching.

Among other care measures, it is important to observe the moisture level in the soil (water it in a timely manner) and whitewash the trunk before the onset of heat.

The fact is that the bark of a pear tree is subject to sunburn, so it is either treated with lime or covered with non-woven material. In the spring, spraying with approved chemicals can be carried out in order to avoid the infestation of various pests on the pear.

Possible problems

A pear infected with diseases and pests is not transplanted. Besides that you can lose the tree, there is still a risk of infecting the soil or nearby other plants.

If the basic rules for transplanting are not followed, seedlings may develop sluggishly or dry out altogether over time. There are several reasons for the possible negative consequences:

  • planting a pear in the place of another tree without proper soil treatment (any plant leaves root residues with infected secretions);
  • planting in the wrong hole (it should not be narrow, the roots should fit freely in it);
  • improper deepening of the root system (and the protrusion of the roots outward is bad, but their excessive embedding in the ground also has a bad effect on the development of the tree);
  • excessive "haircut" of the roots (you cannot touch the central rod, they only get rid of rotten and damaged roots, the side ones are slightly trimmed);
  • improper irrigation technique (the hose does not need to be located at the trunk, water should flow into the root circle).

Experts advise not to let the pear bear fruit in the first season after transplanting - this can also cause abnormal development of the plant. In the first year, the tree must be allowed to grow stronger, it is in the power of the gardener to organize such care so that later the pear will delight with its fragrant fruits for many years.

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