For what year does a pear bear fruit and how many times can it be harvested?

Someone gets the first fruits from a pear tree the next year after planting, someone after 3-4 years, and someone cannot wait at all to bear fruit. It all depends on the variety and factors affecting the formation of fruits. In the article, we will tell you which varieties of pear trees give a quick harvest, and which ones bear fruit later, and what prevents the pear from forming a color and setting fruit.

Sometimes you have to wait a long time for the first harvest from a pear, but this tree differs from some other fruit trees in that it bears fruit every year. Of course, this will happen with proper care and proper feeding, because a pear spends more strength and energy on fruiting than other plants. Different varieties of pears also have different fruiting periods: some trees can produce crops for 10 years, others will bear fruit for half a century. The average statistic for pears is 50–70 years. There are, of course, exceptions to the rule.

Cases have been proven when a pear has been yielding for 100 and even 150 years. There are 100-year-old pears of the Lemon variety, and the common pear is also referred to as perennial. These varieties, under favorable conditions, can yield crops for up to 200 years. An interesting feature: from the moment the first fruits appear, the pear's yield will increase over the next 20 years, then for another 20 years it will be at a stable level, and then it will decline.

A pear grown from seeds will definitely not give a harvest next year, it will not even bloom. Such seedlings must mature in several years before they give color. As a rule, they are not grown outdoors. But if the planted tree will please with its flowering for the next season, this time is not enough for fruiting.

The pear bears fruit depending on the variety. There are varieties that begin to produce crops 3-4 years after planting. These include:

• Siberian woman;
• Rognedu;
• Honey pear;
• Bere Moscow;
• Chizhovskaya;
• pear Lada;
• grade in Memory of Yakovlev and others.

So, 6-8 years after planting, you can collect the first fruits from the following varieties:

• Duchess;
• Favorite;
• Bergamot;
• Williams;
• Treasure;
• Bere Giffard;
• Forest beauty and others.

The Tonkovotka variety will take root in a new place for 8–10 years, and only when it gets stronger will yield a harvest. If you have planted a Far Eastern pear, then you may not wait for the fruit for several decades. The Ussuriyskaya pear will delight you with its harvest no earlier than 15–20 years later. But Annushka will delight the next season after landing. This unique variety produces crops almost immediately. If in the first season you do not see pears on the tree, do not be upset, in the second year after planting they will definitely appear on Annushka.

You can speed up the fruiting of any tree if you provide it with proper care. When it is planted in good soil, pruning is done in a timely manner, there is watering and feeding, the seedling develops faster and can give the first harvest a year, or even two ahead of schedule. If, with decent care, the pear still does not bear fruit, you need to pay attention to the varietal affiliation, to the conditions in which the pear grows, whether pests have chosen it, or whether various diseases have attacked it. Let us consider further each of the factors that interfere with fruiting in detail.

The pear does not bloom or bear fruit in certain cases.

• When planting rules are not followed. If the pear does not bloom and bear fruit for a long time, this may be due to the place where it grows. The tree simply may not have enough light and heat, respectively, there is not enough strength and energy for flowering. The pear is uncomfortable even on acidic soils, so it will not let color in such conditions. Too much water will also make the tree suffer. If it is planted near the location of groundwater, then the roots will rot - the tree is definitely not up to flowering. Well, elementary ignorance, for example, at what depth to plant a pear, will also lead to the fact that fruiting will shift by 5-6 years. This usually happens when the seedling is too deep in the hole during planting. In this case, you need to shake off the soil on the sides of the root collar. It happens that even with insufficient depth when planting, the tree will not bear fruit in the future. In this case, you need to create an artificial depression by filling the ground around the tree.
• In adverse weather conditions. It is clear that it is impossible to control the weather, but choosing the right place so that it shines less, and with a strong gust of wind or a thunderstorm, the flowers do not crumble, in the strength of the gardener. Given the climatic features of the region, you need to choose the right pear variety. For example, where there is lingering cold, you should not plant varieties that bloom early: frosts can destroy the color. And also all varieties of pears are recommended to be sheltered for the winter; in the spring, during return frosts, protective measures must be taken.
• If the wrong feeding is done. When feeding pears, you must observe the measure. An excessive amount of applied fertilizer promotes the rapid development of new shoots, and not the setting of fruits. Experienced gardeners argue that the pear does not need to be fed at all before the first fruiting: it is quite enough for the development of the amount of nutrients that are introduced during planting. By the way, this tree poorly "digests" organic matter, so only mineral fertilizers are applied to feed it.
• If you do the wrong cropping. The branches are cut from the pear 2 times a year. As a rule, gardeners carry out these works in spring and early autumn. It is necessary to take into account the seasonal nature of the event and apply the scheme that is designed specifically for spring and autumn pruning. So, if you cut too many branches in the spring, then the tree will heal wounds more than direct its forces towards fruiting. A "short haircut" in the fall can lead to the fact that the tree simply freezes in winter. If you do not shorten or remove excess branches at all, then on a too dense crown the fruits will not tie, they simply will not have enough light for development. At best, these will be small fruits. Pruning for fast fruiting is, first of all, removing young growth in autumn and spring and pruning crow's feet from the top in autumn, cutting top branches in autumn and harvesting crossed branches in spring.
• When there are no other pollinating pear trees nearby. Self-infertility is most common among this culture. Only modern columnar varieties are capable of self-pollination, and mainly cross-pollination is characteristic of pears (with the exception of a small part of varieties). Therefore, if you plant pear trees of the same variety on your site, you can not wait for ovary and fruiting.As soon as you plant another pear variety at a distance of 4–5 m, which blooms in the same period as the neighboring one, you will get the long-awaited fruits.
• When the tree is affected by pests and diseases. Improper care or development of a plant, let go by itself, often lead to the fact that the pear becomes ill and does not bear fruit. The problem can be solved with folk remedies or chemical preparations, which the market abounds in. As a preventive measure, it is recommended to spray the trees once a month, only the flowering period falls out of this process. Well, if the tree bore fruit for a long time, and then stopped, do not torment it: perhaps it is already old and is not capable of bearing fruit. By the way, after the pear loses its fruiting function, it quickly dies.

And if you buy a seedling from a random seller, then it is quite possible that you will grow wild. And not because you were deceived, it may be an illiterate vaccination.