Planting hydrangeas and care recommendations

Hydrangea is no less popular plant than geranium, rose or tulip. But you need to show diligence and accuracy in order to get a good result when growing it. It's time to figure out exactly how to do this.

To begin with, it is worth considering how hydrangeas are grown on the balcony. This plant has been used as an indoor culture since the 18th century. Growing on the balcony is facilitated by the formation of a compact bush. Its leaves are beautiful and large. With proper care, hydrangea can grow up to 1 m.

Each bush has 1-7 inflorescences. At the same time, the plant makes high demands on both growing conditions and care. The slightest deviation from the rules of care immediately creates many problems. The greatest difficulty, oddly enough, is the maintenance of a strict cyclical development of potted crops. We'll have to carefully monitor the folding of the buds and what the wintering conditions are.

During the resting phase, the plant will shed its foliage. The illumination should be exactly the same as in the garden. It is better if the hydrangea is placed in a place protected from direct sunlight. At the same time, there should be a lot of light.

But as good as hydrangea is in itself, it is usually grown alongside other crops. Ferns are a logical addition to her. Together with them, an exotic guest will reveal all its depth and allow "to play" in contrasts. You can create ensembles with dissimilar elements and a variety of aesthetic content.

Quite often, hosts are grown together with hydrangeas. Joint cultivation of hydrangeas with roses, with other large flowers and skeletal crops is also practiced. Perennial crops are combined with hydrangeas both in flower beds and in flower beds, and simply in plants planted by a group in the garden.

Ground cover plants designed for wet soil can also be planted with hydrangeas. Among them are ivy and periwinkle. For more variety, it is advised to sometimes use the tenacious and pachisandra. If there is interest in low perennials, a soft cuff is the best choice. Its bright light greenery, the splendor of a bush that looks like a cloud, gives a "shine" to plant compositions.

Badan turns out to be a sharp and even unexpected "companion" of hydrangea. The leaves of this plant are simply enormous. The tenderness of its flowering will also be an attractive feature. This external combination is especially good in autumn.

You can also decorate a composition with hydrangeas with the help of cereals. By combining these plants, they achieve a modern look for the garden space. The gaps between large colors are filled in:

• millet;

• miscanthus;

• reed phalaris;

• haonechloa.

Such a duo looks so attractive that it is impossible to look away from it. But you can also consider the idea of ​​compositions with the participation of white-flowered crops. Astilba will add splendor, anemones look quivering, physostegies create an unexpected effect. There is no need, however, to be limited to just white.It is perfectly acceptable to use other shades and colors.

Lovers of blue compositions should use aconite. Other popular options that go well with hydrangea are:

• rogersia;

• crocus;

• iris;

• day-lily;

• volzhanka;

• euonymus;

• shrub cinquefoil;

• boxwood.

It is better to plant hydrangea in spring. At the same time, they choose the moment when the soil has already thawed, moved away from winter stiffness, and the buds have not yet begun to bloom. But you can plant hydrangea in the first month of autumn. Be sure to take into account the characteristics of a particular variety. Depending on it, the culture develops better in full or in partial shade.

Planting in the sun can inhibit the normal development of the plant. At the same time, a decrease in the size of the inflorescences is noted. Certain types of hydrangeas are suitable for cultivation in open, sun-drenched areas. However, you will definitely need to water them more actively. In the first year after planting, the hydrangea must be protected not only from bright sunlight, but also from severe wind.

A separate topic is the planting of hydrangeas in the subtropics, for example, in the Crimea. There is no need to shelter culture from the sun. A light shading is enough, for example, with a gazebo or a fence. But large-leaved forms need deeper shade due to the hot summer. This must be taken into account when planning plantings in the country, otherwise you will not be able to see how the plant blooms.

Another nuance is associated with the difference in plant forms. Large-flowered hydrangea is planted both singly and in groups. The plant needs sunlight, but shading is required in the middle of the day. The seedlings should be at least 1 m apart from each other.

But just choosing a place for planting a culture is not enough. Having decided on the place of the planting pit for the hydrangea on the site, it is required to thoroughly drain and moisten the ground. The optimal planting mixture includes:

• leafy land;

• humus;

• washed river sand;

• crushed peat.

The ratio of these parts is 2: 2: 1: 1. Lime cannot be added to it. The optimal indicator of the acid-base balance is 5 units. Spring planting is recommended in the northern parts of Russia. But for flower growers of the Kuban, Crimea and other southern regions it is better to take up work in the fall.

It is recommended to make a landing pit 0.4 m wide and 0.4 to 0.5 m deep. In the process of planting, the dimensions of the root complex must be taken into account. Sometimes, due to its large size, it is necessary to increase the size of the pit. It must also be remembered that the roots branch very strongly.

A low mound is formed from the soil mixture. Then they carefully put a seedling on it and straighten the roots. They need to be filled up, and without deepening the root necks. The maximum depth is 0.02-0.03 m. If it is greater, the underground part of the plant may rot. The soil near the trunk is thoroughly rammed.

As already mentioned, it is advisable to plant seedlings after buying in the garden in early spring or with the onset of autumn. A distance of less than 1 m from each other can have a detrimental effect on plants. A separate topic is the cultivation of hydrangeas on a trunk. This approach is acceptable for breeding:

• large-leaved;

• paniculate;

• tree varieties.

It is not at all required to deepen the standard culture. It is guaranteed to get an even trunk and bright, lush inflorescences. An additional advantage is its resistance to difficult winter conditions. Only in very harsh seasons will additional shelter be required.

The procedure is pretty simple:

• a stake made of wood or metal is buried in the soil;

• attach a plant to it in several places;

• pinch the shoots twice in the summer;

• waiting for the formation of a full-fledged tree within 7-8 years (it cannot work before).

For a normal planting of hydrangeas, it is advised to add 0.05 kg of mineral composition to the soil mixture. If possible, it is better to leave the mixture in the pit before disembarking for 15-30 days. With sufficient wealth and fertility of the land, you can land immediately. The roots are tamped so that they are firmly pressed and do not end up in a void. Immediately after planting, the bush is actively watered with water; to retain moisture, sprinkle with bark, sawdust, and crushed peat is used.

For potted hydrangea, only acidic soil is suitable. It is usually recommended to use off-the-shelf substrates for azaleas, conifers, or citrus fruits. Even large-leaved hydrangeas can be grown in pots. Some flower growers prepare the soil mixture on their own using:

• coniferous litter;

• crushed peat;

• soil from the garden.

Although hydrangea has to be watered quite actively, it is sometimes a real revelation for beginners that excess water can harm the culture. Under normal conditions, about 10-15 liters of water is spent on each bush. You need to irrigate the hydrangea once a week. The frequency of watering is increased if a drought occurs. The agricultural technology of this plant provides for the use of only soft, previously settled or collected rainwater.

Around the hydrangis, the earth must be loosened to a depth of 0.07-0.1 m. But the culture can be watered not only with clean water, but also with solutions of useful substances. Once every 10-15 days, citric acid is added to the liquid in order to maintain the required level of acid-base balance.

Often used for leaving and potassium permanganate to:

• maintain pH with minimal effort;

• suppress the development of pathological fungi;

• increase the strength of the shoots;

• activate the bookmark of flower stalks and grow more buds.

The concentration of potassium permanganate should not be excessively high. When the mixture is colored to a bright crimson hue, instead of staining the petals, it will burn parts of the plant. It is imperative to check whether the crystals are completely dissolved. One undissolved particle is enough for a serious chemical burn of the crop.

When the time for hydrangea budding is approaching, feeding is carried out with potassium sulfate mixed with superphosphate. They are taken 0.03 and 0.05 kg per 10 liters of water, respectively. An alternative is to use complex mineral mixtures. They are used in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. In summer, panicle hydrangea is fed with ash or bone meal.

It is impossible to grow this crop without cosmetic and health-improving pruning. The crown is formed by shortening the shoots by 1 strong bud. The roots must be covered with mulch. In the first third of autumn, unnecessarily weak branches are cut off. This allows the rest of the plant to gain strength for the start of the new season.

If, after the end of the cold weather, freezing of the branches is detected, they must be cut off before the juices begin to move. Remove all parts except healthy wood. In the middle of summer, developed branches are cut off, leaving only the lower growth. Later, you will have to quickly get rid of dried and degraded shoots. If the variety blooms on last year's branches, in July it is necessary to cut out the shoots with 4 leaves that have ceased to bloom - then you can expect the appearance of new flower buds in August.

You only need to take carefully processed mulch for hydrangea. Best of all is the one that is made with your own hands. From factory formulations, it is better to use crushed bark mulch. On the packaging, you should look for references to composting or sterilization. Sour mulch will give your plants a pink color, and alkaline mulch will give your plants a blue color.

A good sour mulch is coffee grounds. An alkaline option is considered to be finely chopped or otherwise chopped bark. But the efficiency of leaching the land with such an additive is low. You will definitely have to use special fertilizers.

There are a few more subtleties:

• to improve the appearance of mulch flooring helps to cover it with organic matter (for example, sawdust);

• inorganic mulch is better for decorating a garden;

• it is recommended to mulch in the spring;

• mulching in winter is impractical;

• before laying the mulch, the hydrangea must be weeded and watered well;

• every year you need to use a new batch of mulch.

Dry blackening of the hydrangea (the formation of brown spots and further wilting of the leaves) can be prevented by allowing the water to stand for about 24 hours before watering and covering the plants from the sun. "Wet" blackening (soaking and darkening of leaves) occurs due to:

• sudden changes in temperature;

• winds and drafts;

• too intensive irrigation;

• excessive soil density, its impermeability to air.

So that the hydrangea does not get sick with chlorosis, you need to saturate the soil with iron. If this does not help, the use of iron in a special, easily absorbed form is required. There is no specific prevention of fungal and other infectious diseases. It is only necessary to take good care of the hydrangea and maintain its normal development. To prevent the spread of infections to new plants, specific treatment of the affected specimens helps.

Sometimes gardeners worry why the hydrangea does not bloom or drops rapidly withering buds. Deciduous varieties prevailing in central Russia bloom from the beginning of summer. They finish their lush season at the end of autumn, shortly before the early frosts. Blooming too long is often associated with too much shade and pruning errors. It can also be assumed that the kidneys were damaged due to the bad weather; eating disorders are still possible.

A flower overfed with organic matter will take too long to form buds. It is much more correct to underfeed him a little. In order for flowering to occur at normal times, nitrogen must be laid in the soil only in the spring. And then it should not be too much. The year when flowering begins is determined not only by the composition of the earth, but also by the intensity of illumination, and the systematic irrigation.

Treelike and paniculate varieties are able to withstand severe frost well. Even if damaged, they will recover quickly in the spring. The Himalayan hydrangea is even more resistant. But large-leaved crops are not resistant enough, like oakleaf varieties. As for the petiolate hydrangea, it is not necessary to cover it in the fall, unless the winter is deliberately severe.

When cold weather approaches, they immediately and quickly reduce watering, smoothly reducing it to zero. The culture is sheltered from the rains, only so that the roots do not rot. Lignification of shoots is achieved by active feeding with potassium-phosphorus preparations (without nitrogen!). When severe frosts come, the remaining foliage and inflorescences are cut by hand.

You can find out how to propagate hydrangea by watching the video below.