How to cover a hydrangea for the winter?

Many gardeners have long fallen in love with such a beautiful and spectacular plant as hydrangea. Fluffy bushes, strewn with lush inflorescences, have bright green toothed leaf plates, can change color, and look simply luxurious. However, despite their unpretentiousness, they require careful care. Wintering deserves attention, which, if approached incorrectly, can harm the plant or even kill it.

Hydrangea is represented by approximately 70-80 varieties. Not all of them are suitable for growing in our country. The plant is quite unpretentious, which cannot but please gardeners, but at the same time not all of its species are winter-hardy. Therefore, he often needs special training and shelter during the cold weather.

It should be noted that some varieties do not need shelter. Basically, it is necessary for young plants during the first 2-3 years of life. As for the southern regions of Russia, such a procedure is, in principle, not relevant there due to the climate.

It should be noted that panicle hydrangea best able to withstand cold. She is not afraid of temperature drops to -40 degrees. Therefore, you can do without serious shelter, it is enough just to cover the ground around the trunk circle in order to preserve the root system. If the region does not differ in abnormal cold snaps, you can ignore this moment. I must say that the stems of paniculate hydrangea very rarely freeze slightly.

Tree hydrangea also resistant to low temperatures. However, if the growing area is characterized by severe frosts, you should think about complete shelter, otherwise the young shoots may freeze. But if for some reason it didn't work out, it's okay. The tree will still bloom, as it is distinguished by its rapid recovery with the onset of warm days.

One of the most famous representatives is large-leaved hydrangea... But it is characterized by a low degree of winter hardiness, respectively, experts recommend growing it in warm or temperate climates. In the northern regions, you should take care of the shelter. It is possible that complete freezing will not occur, however, the shrub will not please with lush flowering in the next season. It should be noted that frost resistance will change with age.

It's no secret that different regions of our country differ in climate. Therefore, it is not so difficult to guess that the optimal timing of shelter will also vary. The southern strip of Russia may well do without this procedure, but in colder regions, gardeners begin to think about shelter in late summer and early autumn... You can especially highlight the middle zone and the Moscow region, the Urals, Siberia and the Leningrad region.

As for central Russia, the procedures for covering plants for the winter start in the second half of October. Usually, by these dates, the temperature already drops below 0 degrees at night.For winter-hardy varieties, full cover is not required. It must be said that in these latitudes the average air temperature in winter is about -15 degrees, and a number of varieties feel good even when the thermometer reads -35 degrees.

Flowering buds in paniculate and tree-like shrubs will form on new shoots, respectively, light and short-term cold does not harm the shrubs and are not able to adversely affect their appearance. A procedure such as mulching is enough. It is worth treating the periosteal circle, and the plant will survive the winter perfectly. As for the large-leaved hydrangea, it must be covered.

The Urals are known for their harsh winters. This forces gardeners to take winter preparation very seriously. The bushes are carefully covered in various ways. Preparatory activities begin approximately from October. As for Siberia, it is characterized by abnormal frosts that can persist for a long time. Therefore, the most suitable species for growing in this region is panicle hydrangea. Among the rest, it is distinguished by its special frost resistance.

but nevertheless, you should not refuse to close, you can organize it already from the beginning of October... Large-leaved varieties are suitable for growing in pots, which can be transferred to the house during the cold season. The Leningrad Region is distinguished by heavy snowfalls. Its climate allows not to make major winter shelters for hydrangeas. This applies to paniculate and tree species. The snow will cover the shrubbery, thereby protecting it from the cold. Large-leaved varieties should be covered around mid-October.

Covering materials are different. Some of them are suitable for hiding hydrangeas for the winter. Some are even permissible to combine with each other. The main ones are leaves, twigs, nonwovens, polyethylene and burlap. The leaves are an organic cover material, however, they alone will not be enough to protect the hydrangea from frost. You need to put something else on top, only in this case the plant will be warm. However, you can do the opposite: first, the material is stretched onto a special frame, and the leaves are covered from above.

Perfect as a hiding place maple leaves and chestnut leaves... They have a significant advantage, since they do not have time to rot during the winter. Experts categorically do not recommend using fallen leaves of fruit trees or berry bushes. Concerning branches of spruce branches, they are one of the most common covering materials. Most often, they are thrown over dry leaves or other shelter, since the spruce branches itself will not be enough to protect the hydrangea from frost. You should not deliberately break or cut branches; you can find enough broken material in the forest or park that can be used. It is very convenient if the site has its own coniferous plants, the residues after pruning are quite useful in this case.

Further it should be said about non-woven covering material... Its role can be played by lutrasil or spunbond. They are also well-deservedly popular with gardeners. The materials are breathable, which is their indisputable advantage.

If you organize such a shelter, the hydrangea will not need snow. The material is attached to specially installed arcs. In addition, the number of layers can be increased according to temperature changes and layers can be added closer to winter. Lutrasil is waterproof and does not need to be removed too early. Burlap is great for hiding large-leaved hydrangeas. It needs to be pulled in 2-3 layers, after which a plastic wrap should be placed on top. It is necessary to ensure that there are small vents at the edges. At the beginning of spring, the film must be removed, since the temperature under it will constantly increase with the arrival of heat.

Next, you should talk about plastic wrap... It should be noted that roofing material can be an excellent analogue of it. The film is not breathable, which is not an advantage. Yes, it perfectly protects the plant from excess moisture, but with regard to hydrangea, this is not particularly required. In addition, as temperatures rise, the shelter becomes hot and stuffy. It is best to stretch the film over a nonwoven fabric and be sure to leave holes for ventilation. It will help prevent condensation from forming. Polyethylene is removed in early spring.

Creating a shelter is not the only moment when preparing hydrangeas for wintering. There is a set of recommendations from experienced gardeners. The events do not require much time and effort, the main thing is to complete them on time, and also do not forget about the sequence. Most often, pruning of hydrangeas is done in early spring. However, before the onset of winter, they will also need attention and care. During this period, sanitary pruning is done, respectively, damaged and dried branches and inflorescences are removed, and garden var or a special protective agent is applied to the sections.

Fallen leaves must be collected and destroyed. As for the large-leaved hydrangea, the foliage from its lower part is removed at the very beginning of autumn. This helps the shoots to become woody, which means they will become more frost-resistant. Before the cold weather, the remaining foliage is also removed, with the exception of the upper part, which will protect the flower buds. Dried inflorescences in some cases can not be removed, leaving for the winter. This is true if the plant is not planned to be covered, respectively, it will delight the eye with its original appearance. Clusters should not be left if the shrub is completely covered with any material, especially if it is less than 3 years old.

Closer to the beginning of autumn, you can feed the hydrangea with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Watering stops in mid-September. You can try to protect the large-leaved hydrangea as much as possible from excess moisture by covering it with a film.

If it is possible to create a shelter using roofing material, you need to proceed as follows. A protective fence about 1 meter high is made around the bush. About 10 centimeters should remain from the walls to the shoots. Dry foliage is placed inside, and on top of the structure is covered with non-woven material or polyethylene.

As for removing the shelter, there is no need to rush here. It is not worth removing it with the arrival of the first heat, since snow can provoke the appearance of sunburn. The material should be removed slowly, layer by layer. When the snow begins to actively melt, you can remove the polyethylene. With the establishment of warm days, it is necessary to check how the hydrangea survived the winter. This is done around mid-May, when no more frost is expected.

The procedure is best carried out in cloudy weather, this will exclude the possibility of sunburn. You can not open the plant immediately, but for a start for a while in the morning and evening hours. After that, the mulch is removed, and the earth around the bush is loosened. If it is dry, watering is necessary. In this case, the water must be warm, you can acidify it a little with citric acid.

After that, pruning is carried out. Each shoot should have 3-4 buds after it. Dry branches and shoots older than 4 years of age are removed.The procedure is done before the leaves begin to form, unless the hydrangea is damaged during the winter.

See below for the correct preparation of hydrangeas for winter.