How to transplant gloxinia?

Gloxinia with its appearance is able to revive the interior of any room. This is possible thanks to the colors that resemble the pipes of a gramophone and differ in a variety of colors. In order for a green pet to please for a long time, it needs to be transplanted periodically - most often this is done at the end of winter.

Define gloxinia to a new location required in different cases:

• after hibernation, a small sprout has formed in the flower, but the leaves do not appear yet;
• if the plant was brought from the store in a pot in which it cannot develop normally;
• after acquiring tubers (not planted in the ground);
• if harmful insects attacked and the soil is contaminated;
• if eaten by the fungus.

When the flowering period ends, gloxinia leaves gradually wither and die. This is a signal to remove everything that has dried up, and put the pot in a cool place (10-15 degrees above zero, no more). In this form, the tubers are stored until spring.

It is possible to transplant "in a planned mode" in the last days of February or in the first days of March. The plant tubers are prone to rot. Therefore, even if there are no clear indications for a transplant, it is better not to postpone it for the next time.

There is no need to wait for a new long sprout to appear in the pet with the onset of the seasonal revival. The sooner the awakened tuber is transplanted, the better.

To transplant a tuber from one pot to another, you need to assess its condition and take measures to ensure that it does not "capture old problems" in a new place.

It is taken out of the container, and the dry roots are removed. They are washed in cold running water to completely remove the soil. Now the surface of the tuber becomes visible, and you can assess whether it is strong, or there are signs of rot and rotten tissue.

Suspicious parts should be removed, and the place that got under the knife should be treated with crushed charcoal or powdered Kornevin and any fungicide mixed together.

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After that, an ordinary tuber should lie in the air for about a day. If he looks sickly and lethargic, you need to give him water to drink. To do this, it is wrapped in a wet cloth for 3 days. If sprouts have appeared by that time, they must be left on top.

It happens that by the time of transplantation, the tuber remains in a drowsy state. If in appearance everything is in order with him, in order to awaken him, you need to put a little damp earth on the bottom of the plastic bag - it is mainly peat in composition. Place the washed and dried tuber in a bag, close it and put in a warm place, which is also well lit

When choosing a pot for gloxinia, one should take into account the peculiarities of its root system. Since it grows in width, the container should be large in diameter and not too deep. It is necessary to provide that the drainage will fit at the bottom, and the layer of earth should be higher than the size of the tuber. So the underground part of the plant will not noticeably stick out from the ground when planting, and there will be a supply of soil that separates it from the drainage layer.

If the pot is too deep, the indoor flower will direct all efforts to grow the underground part and leaves. But flowering will have to wait for a very long time.

It is impossible to do without drainage when planting such an indoor flower. It protects the tuber from rotting.

At the bottom of the pot you can put:

• pieces of expanded clay;
• small fragments left over from ceramic dishes;
• pebbles.

If the future "green pet house" is deeper than necessary, drainage can compensate for this disadvantage by making its layer higher. When gloxinia grows up, it will sit high, without touching the table or windowsill where it was placed, and without experiencing discomfort from this.

The soil for gloxinia should be light and loose, as if breathing, well permeable to water.

The plant does not like an acidic environment, in which the likelihood of rot on the tuber increases. Land for violets is suitable for planting, which can be bought in a specialized store. The mixture can be made on your own. Depending on the available components, the following compositions are mixed:

• for a part of the sand, 2 parts of leaf and peat land are taken;
• to two parts of humus from the foliage, add part of the sod land, sand and ordinary humus.

Let's analyze it step by step, how to properly transplant gloxinia.

1. Before you bury the tubers in new soil, you need to treat them against rot and fungus. To do this, they are dipped in a fungicidal solution for 30 minutes. You can take "Fundazol", "Fitosporin" or dilute potassium permanganate so that the liquid takes on a rich pink hue.
2. In order for the plant to develop roots faster, the tuber is soaked for 24 hours with diluted "Kornevin" (5 grams of powder per 5-liter bucket).
3. Proceeding directly to planting, you need to determine where it has the lower side, and where - the upper, so as not to plant "upside down". There is a depression in the upper part, and the lower one is convex and smooth.
4. For planting, a small hole is made in the middle of the pot, and the tuber is placed in it. They are buried so that the crown with sprouts protrudes outward. This is necessary for the unimpeded development of leaves, which germinate earlier than the roots.
5. Watering after planting should be done carefully, not allowing liquid to get into the center of the tuber and on the sprouts, so that the "new settler" does not start to rot.
6. For the transplanted plant, it is required to create a greenhouse environment. To do this, put a bag (transparent) on the pot and put it in a warm place with plenty of light. In this way, moisture is maintained in the container. There is no need to water gloxinia at this time - you need to make sure that the soil is slightly moistened. If the top layer of the earth dries up, it's okay.
7. It is necessary to air the improvised greenhouse once a day, removing the plastic cap for 20 minutes.
8. When the leaves are formed, close the pot only at night, and after a couple of days remove it completely.
9. Water the young sprout in small portions so as not to oversaturate undeveloped roots with moisture.

Whether gloxinia will be able to regain its green mass and bloom luxuriantly depends on how properly it will be looked after in the future.

The pot is placed on a well-lit windowsill, but so that direct sunlight does not fall on it. Lighting should last 10 to 14 hours a day. The required temperature is slightly above +20 degrees Celsius.

If it reaches +28 degrees, the root system overheats, the leaves lose their elasticity, new buds do not appear, and the flowers that are already there wither. If this happens, gloxinia needs to be rearranged to a place with less illumination.

Watering should be moderate but sufficient. Those roots that do not receive their portion of moisture die off. Because of this, gloxinia slows down growth and sheds buds.

Experienced people water the houseplant around the edge of the pot. This prevents moisture from getting directly onto the tuber itself. The water should be warm. Do not allow it to fall on leaves and flowers. Dampness will ruin the "green home dweller".

Its flowering ends in August. Watering at this time is reduced. At the end of September, it is completely reduced to a minimum, since gloxinia begins to fade, approaching the hibernation period.

While the pet is strong and happy with its beauty, it needs to provide good air humidity. When dry, the leaves begin to curl. In this case, the room must be ventilated so that the moist air does not stagnate and does not create conditions for the occurrence of fungus.

A month and a half after the flower has settled in a new container, you can start feeding it. Usually, a ready-made fertilizer for flowers growing at home is used for this. Such a product should include a large amount of phosphorus and potassium, and very little nitrogen - its excess content provokes an excessive build-up of green mass to the detriment of beautiful flowers. They become small and completely ineffective in appearance.

Top dressing is necessary 2-3 times a month. When a period of hibernation looms on the horizon, you can fertilize with products that do not contain nitrogen at all. This can be, for example, potassium monophosphate.

Fertilized properly, the first beauty parade takes place in May and June. After that, you can cut off the stem and leave only 4 leaves at the very bottom. A few days later, the stepsons will appear. Of these, a couple of the strongest are chosen. The rest are cut off. A month later, buds are formed again. The new flowers will not be as luxurious as the previous generation, their color may also differ from the previous ones. This is fine.

In order not to lose the plant, a number of circumstances should be taken into account:

• if too much water is watered with cold water, the tuber becomes flabby;
• with dry air and drafts, the buds do not open;
• insufficient lighting leads to the fact that the leaves become pale and brown at the edges;
• leaves drop and stop growing due to lack of heat;
• leaf plates acquire a reddish tint when there is not enough phosphorus, and if they lose their bright color, there is little magnesium.

Transplanting and caring for gloxinia requires effort and attention. But considering how beautiful the green pet's flowers are, this concern is fully justified.

For information on how to store gloxinia tubers in winter, see the video below.