How long does epoxy dry and how to speed up the process?

Since its invention, epoxy resin has in many ways turned mankind's idea of ​​crafts - having a suitable shape at hand, it became possible to produce various decorations and even useful items right at home! Today, epoxy compounds are used both in serious industry and by home craftsmen, however, it is very important to correctly understand the mechanics of solidification of the mass.

The question in the title of this article is so popular for the simple reason that you will not find a clear answer in any instructions on how long epoxy takes to dry., - simply because the timing depends on many variables. For beginners, it is imperative to clarify that, in principle, it begins to fully harden only after a special hardener is added to it, which means that the intensity of the process largely depends on its properties.

Hardeners come in many varieties, but one of two is almost always used: either polyethylene polyamine (PEPA) or triethylene tetraamine (TETA). It is not for nothing that they have different names - they differ in chemical composition, and therefore in their properties.

PEPA is a so-called cold hardener, which fully "works" without additional heating (at room temperature, which is usually 20-25 degrees). It will take about a day to wait for solidification. And the resulting craft will withstand heating up to 350-400 degrees without any problems, and only at temperatures of 450 degrees and above will it begin to collapse.

The chemical curing process can be accelerated by heating the composition with the addition of PEPA, but this is usually not advised, because the tensile, bending and tensile strength indicators can decrease up to one and a half times.

TETA works in a slightly different way - it is the so-called hot hardener. Theoretically, hardening will occur at room temperature, but in general, the technology involves heating the mixture somewhere up to 50 degrees - this way the process will go faster.

In principle, it is not worth heating the product above this value, and when bulk objects over 100 "cubes" are ejected, this is strictly prohibited, because TETA has the ability to self-heat and can boil - then air bubbles form in the thickness of the product, and the contours will clearly be violated. If everything is done according to the instructions, then the epoxy craft with TETA will be more resistant to high temperatures than its main competitor, and will have increased resistance to deformation.

The above differences in selection are as follows: TETA is an uncontested option if you need a product of maximum strength and resistance to high temperatures, and an increase in the pour point by 10 degrees will give a threefold acceleration of the process, but with the risk of boiling and even smoke. If outstanding properties in terms of product durability are not needed and it is not so important how long the workpiece hardens, it makes sense to choose PEPA.

The shape of the craft also directly affects the speed of the process. We mentioned above that the hardener TETA is prone to self-heating, but in fact this property is also characteristic of PEPA, only on a much smaller scale. The subtlety lies in the fact that such heating requires maximum contact of the mass with itself.

Roughly speaking, 100 grams of the mixture in the form of a perfectly regular ball, even at room temperature and using TETA, hardens in about 5-6 hours without outside interference, heating itself, but if you smear the same volume of mass with a thin layer over a 10 by 10 square cm, self-heating will not really be and it will take a day or more to wait for full hardness.

Of course, the proportion also plays a role - the more hardener in the mass, the more intensive the process will go. At the same time, those components that you have not thought of at all can take part in thickening, and this, for example, grease and dust on the walls of the mold for pouring. These components can spoil the intended shape of the product, therefore degreasing is carried out with alcohol or acetone, but they also need to be given time to evaporate, because they are plasticizers for the mass and can slow down the process.

If we are talking about a decoration or other craft, then inside the transparent epoxy mass there may be foreign fillers, which also affect how soon the mass begins to thicken. It has been noticed that most fillers, including even chemically neutral sand and fiberglass, accelerate the curing process, and in the case of iron filings and aluminum powder, this phenomenon is especially pronounced.

Although we have explained above why accurate calculations are impossible, for adequate work with epoxy, you need to have at least a rough idea of ​​how much time will be spent on polymerization. Since a lot depends both on the proportions of hardeners and plasticizers in the mass, and on the shape of the future product, experts advise making several experimental "recipes" with different proportions in order to clearly understand what relationship of different components will give the desired result. Make the prototypes of the mass small - the polymerization does not have a "reverse", and it will not work to get the original components from the frozen figure, so all the spoiled workpieces will be completely damaged.

Understanding how quickly the epoxy hardens is necessary at least for a clear planning of your own actions, so that the material does not have time to harden before the master gives it the desired shape. On average, 100 grams of epoxy resin with the addition of PEPA hardens in the mold for at least half an hour and an hour at a maximum at room temperature of 20-25 degrees.

Reduce this temperature to +15 - and the minimum value of the solidification time will sharply increase to 80 minutes. But this is all in compact silicone molds, but if you spread the same 100 grams of mass at the room temperature mentioned above over a square meter surface, then be prepared that the expected result will take shape only tomorrow.

A curious life hack follows from the pattern described above, which helps to preserve the fluid state of the working mass for longer. If you need a lot of material for work, moreover, strictly the same properties, and you simply do not have time to process it all, then divide the prepared mass into several small portions.

When working with the material, pay attention to how it solidifies.Whatever the starting temperature, whatever the type of hardener, the curing stages are always the same, their sequence is stable, the proportions of the speed of the stages are also preserved. Actually, the fastest of all the resin turns from a full-fledged flowing liquid into a viscous gel - in a new state it can still fill forms, but the consistency already resembles thick May honey and the thin relief of the container for pouring will not transmit. Therefore, when working on crafts with the smallest embossed patterns, do not chase the speed of solidification - it is better to have one hundred percent guarantee that the mass will completely repeat all the features of the silicone mold.

If this is not so important, remember that later the resin will turn from a viscous gel into a pasty mass that sticks strongly to your hands - it can still be molded somehow, but this is more of a glue than a material for full-fledged modeling. If the mass gradually begins to lose even stickiness, it means that it is close to hardening. - but only in terms of stages, and not in terms of time, because each subsequent stage takes much more hours than the previous one.

If you are making a full-fledged large-sized craft with fiberglass filler, it is better not to wait for the result sooner than in a day - at least at room temperature. Even when frozen, such a craft will in many cases be relatively fragile. To make the material stronger and harder, you can even use "cold" PEPA, but at the same time heat it up to 60 or even 100 degrees. Not having a high tendency to self-heating, this hardener will not boil, but it will harden faster and more reliably - within 1-12 hours, depending on the size of the craft.

Sometimes the mold is small and rather simple in terms of relief, then a long solidification time is not needed for work - this is rather bad than good. Many craftsmen working on an "industrial" scale simply do not know where to place forms with solidified crafts or do not want to fiddle with a figurine for weeks, in which each layer must be poured separately. Fortunately, professionals know what needs to be done to make the epoxy dry faster, and we will slightly open the veil of secrecy.

In fact, everything rests on an increase in temperature - if, in the case of the same PEPA, it is insignificant to increase the degree, only up to 25-30 Celsius, then we will ensure that the mass freezes more quickly and there is no significant loss of performance. You can place a small heater next to the blanks, but there is no point in reducing the humidity and overdrying the air - we do not evaporate the water, but we start the polymerization process.

Please note that the workpiece must be warm for a long time - there is no point in heating it for a couple of degrees for an hour, because the acceleration of the process will not be so significant that this is enough for a visible effect. You can also find a recommendation to maintain an elevated temperature for crafts for a day, even after all the work is completed and the polymerization seems to be over.

Please note that exceeding the recommended amount of hardener (in a significant amount) can give the opposite effect - the mass not only does not start hardening faster, but it can also "get stuck" in the sticky stage and not completely harden at all. Having decided on additional heating of the workpiece, do not forget about the tendency of hardeners to self-heating and take this indicator into account.

For information on how to speed up the curing process of epoxy resin, see the next video.