Options and scheme for laying fiberboard on the floor

Fiberboard (or fiberboard) is quite often used in construction and renovation. Often it is taken as a base for the floor, and sometimes it is even installed as a finished flooring. A distinctive feature of fiberboard is that it can be laid on a surface made of any material. Moreover, you can do this even on the old floor.

Wood fiber panels are most often used to flatten the floor, or simply as a finish. This is due to their inexpensive cost and ease of use. With the help of fiberboard, you can efficiently and quickly level various surfaces, including floors.

A standard fiberboard sheet has dimensions of 2745 by 1700 millimeters. Moreover, its average thickness is 3.2 millimeters. The front side is smooth, and the back side is rough, sometimes with a mesh pattern. The latter appears during the manufacture of panels, when they are laid for drying on a special mesh with small cells. A variety of fiberboard sheets are quite widely represented in hardware stores.

There are many types of fiberboard, and in order to understand which one is best to use, it is worth familiarizing yourself with each of them.

• Soft sheets have a low density (up to 350 kg / m3). They are designated by the letter M. Since there are three types of soft plates, that is, the designations M1, M2, M3. As a rule, such fiberboard is used in order to manufacture back walls in cabinet furniture, as well as for the bottom of drawers. Among the shortcomings, it is worth noting the low sound insulation.
• Semi-solid panels have a density of 850 kg / m3. To designate this type, the abbreviation HT is used. Typically, these sheets are also used for furniture. However, they are more durable and less flexible.
• Solid fiberboard has a density of 1,000 kg / m3. Their main difference is that they are low-porous. Most often, doors and various pieces of furniture are made of them. The abbreviation T.

It is worth noting that this species has various subspecies.

• • TS is a slab with wood fibers applied to the outside;
  • T-P differs in that the top of the sheets is painted;
  • T-SP combines both qualities of the previous subspecies - wood fibers are applied on the upper side and painted;
  • T-B not painted, but moisture resistant.
• Superhard slabs are distinguished by increased density from 1,000 kg / m3. All of them must be treated with a special substance that increases strength.

As a rule, it is from this type of fiberboard that partitions, floors are made and walls are sheathed with them. They are also suitable for various finishes in the construction and manufacture of furniture and doors. The front side of such plates can be coated with a layer of primer, varnish or paint composition. For marking of this type, the designation CT is used. There are also ST-S, in which the front layer consists of finely dispersed wood pulp.

Fibreboard can be fastened to the base in various ways.... Moreover, you can both nail this material and glue it using glue or mastic. There is also an option to lay the slabs on the joists. You can fix a fiberboard on a concrete base using drying oil, tar.

It is very easy to attach wood fiber sheets to glue. It is enough to apply glue on one side in one layer and leave to dry for 30-40 minutes. During this time, the adhesive should be applied to the surface of the base. Moreover, it is pre-prepared, including the priming process. After that, you can overlay the sheets and press down as tightly as possible. In the process of mounting sheets, you should use a level to get a flat surface. Moreover, it is important to carry out any corrections as quickly as possible, before the glue begins to harden. To achieve a durable coating, the joints should be offset to the sides by about 50 centimeters in relation to each other.

It is best to stick fiberboard sheets to mastic to concrete. In this case, it is important to first cover the base with soil and then dry it. Such preliminary preparation will ensure a good result. On the prepared base, the mastic must be applied in a layer 0.5-0.6 mm thick. In this case, a layer of mastic must be applied directly to the fibreboard and dried a little. Then the sheets are laid on the surface and pressed. If the mastic is taken hot, then it should be applied immediately before the boards are laid. It is not necessary to keep such mastic in the air.

Nail or screw down using self-tapping screwsis also very simple. However, with this method, irregularities can be obtained in the places where the fastening is carried out. This can be avoided if, before fastening for the heads of nails or self-tapping screws, recesses are first made. After the slabs are laid, all holes can be easily removed with a putty.

It is customary to start fastening using nails with preparing the base on which the slabs will be laid. It is advisable to first spread the sheets on the floor in order to adjust and cut them according to the size of the room.

They begin to lay the covering from the far corner of the room, gradually moving towards the exit. For fastening, it is customary to take nails, the diameter of which varies from 1 to 1.6 millimeters, and the length - from 2 to 2.5 centimeters. It is necessary to ensure that the caps do not protrude above the surface of the panels. If there is a gap along the walls, then it can be hidden with a plinth.

On lags installation is somewhat more difficult. Lagami are timber bars that are laid on top of the rough base. Fastening of fibreboards is carried out directly on them.

Fiberboard installation is quick and easy if all the necessary tools and materials are prepared in advance. The most important thing is the sheets of fiberboard directly, it is desirable that their thickness should be from 6 millimeters. It should be noted that for acclimatization, it will be useful to moisten one of the sides of the plates with warm water using a brush and keep them indoors for a couple of days.

Depending on the type of attachment, you may need mastic, glue, nails, screws, logs. It is also worth preparing a hammer, screwdriver, brush or roller for applying adhesives in advance. For pre-treatment of the base, it is advisable to purchase an antiseptic.

For optimal placement of fiberboard sheets cutting them for certain sizes is required... This is especially important when it comes to the outermost rows of tiles on the floor. Of course, you can resort to cutting in a building supermarket, but for this you need to know the exact dimensions in advance. It is worth clarifying that when trimming, it is better to make the sheets a little shorter. After all, it is easier to hide flaws with a baseboard than to cut off excess during installation.

Trim best of all with a special machine so that the edge of the sheet is even and with a good edge. You can also cut with a jigsaw, circular saw (preferably with a laser guide), grinder, hacksaw or hand saw. The main thing is to mark the fiberboard in advance using a marker or pencil and meter.

Fiberboard decking is often used in floor renovations. The main advantage of this material is that it can be laid directly on the old floor.... At the same time, the material is distinguished by an acceptable price. Wood fiber sheets can be used for leveling the floor under linoleum, under parquet or under laminate, and also used for cladding. The boards are distinguished by their good strength and the fact that they are very easy to install.

The most important thing is to carry out preliminary preparation of the rough base. It can be a screed or a wooden floor. It is advisable to eliminate them in the presence of slight curvature, differences in floor level, a noticeable slope or any irregularities. This can be done, for example, with a putty.

Substrate on a wooden floor also assumes to remove all creaking boards, since even a new fiberboard flooring will not change unpleasant sounds. Sometimes there are so many defects that a significant part of the previous flooring has to be replaced.

In the event that the old subfloors are well preserved, their surface can be simply renewed. It is imperative to grind the old base, clean and apply a primer, and it should dry for 8, and preferably 12 hours.

It is advisable to make lags only from a bar that is well dried.... You should not take it much ahead of time and leave it stored in places where there is dampness (garage, basement). It is also important to treat the timber with an antiseptic. This will protect against the appearance of fungus, rot, mold on its surface. Good logs should be free of cracks and knots.

It's best to stop choosing on a flat coniferous bar with a cross section of 4 to 7 centimeters. Lag fastening is carried out on a pre-processed rough base. Nylon ring lock nuts can be used to connect them, which will prevent the structure from loosening excessively.

When the top nuts are tightened, they will penetrate a little into the wood structure. This can lead to the fact that the level of the surface may not be the same as originally intended. Therefore, when tightening the upper locknuts, it is necessary to trace the level boundary, taking into account possible errors. It should be noted that specialists have two levels, of which an additional one is for lock nuts.

Placing beams with a thickness of 40-50 millimeters is best in about 50 cm increments. It is desirable to arrange the lags horizontally. Alignment is carried out using a building level or a long ruler. The fixing of the beams is carried out over the old coating. If there are no wooden planks on the base in some places, then pieces of timber or wood can be put under the logs.

Fiber sheets are attached to the logs so that their edges and joints coincide with the edges of the bars. The sheets should be nailed down, while the step should be approximately 10 centimeters. You can also use a construction stapler. It is worth considering that sheets should be at least 5 millimeters behind the wall (expansion joint).

You need to lay the slabs like this so that they fit together as best as possible. A seam should be obtained between the sheets, not exceeding 2 millimeters. When the next row of fibreboard is being laid, the joints are displaced by 300 - 400 millimeters in relation to the finished row.This increases the strength of the floor and distributes the load more evenly.

After the work is completed, it is necessary to conduct a thorough inspection of all seams. Remove protruding adhesive or fastener residues. If there are gaps between the panels, into which the washer can crawl, then the joints must be sealed with a putty. Also, at the joints, you can glue the sheets with reinforcing tape so that the joints are distinguished by increased strength.

Sanding and priming of the slabs can be done if desired.

Sheathing the floor with fibreboard is a snap. At the same time, today the designers have presented a lot of interesting options for how to do it also beautifully.

• For example, an interesting floor design option, when wavy stripes of different shades are visible on the fiberboard... This option looks very impressive.

• Floor options look even more original with drawing. Moreover, they can be of any theme, including marine, children's or any patterns.

The next video talks about laying fiberboard on the floor.