Wood saw paths

For comfortable movement around the garden or cottage, paved paths with hard surface are required. At the same time, tile or asphalt is both expensive and quite difficult, meanwhile there is a simple and aesthetic solution from scrap materials, namely, from wood cuts. You can build a track relatively quickly without hiring employees - you just need to know about all the features of the process.

As with any other way to solve the problem of passability, a path made from wood cuts has both advantages and disadvantages. Let's start by tradition with the good, especially since the advantages of such a solution can be found in the sea:

• environmentally friendly material is completely harmless and is not capable of harming the environment;
• wood is highly durable, and paths made of some types of wood can even serve for decades;
• the purchase of material will be relatively inexpensive, or you can even use the lumber remaining after the repair, the trees felled by bad weather, cut dry trunks;
• the ease of processing the material allows you to complete the task with improvised tools and with your own hands;
• The path paved with wooden saw cuts looks very aesthetically pleasing and creates an indescribable feeling of comfort.

A separate advantage of wood-paved paths is that they have only one drawback. It consists in the weakness of wood before the conditions of an open area - precipitation, insects and mold will have a destructive effect on the material. However, even this drawback can be eliminated by periodically treating the surfaces of the saw cuts with antiseptics.

It is necessary to pave the path wisely, otherwise individual fragments in the form of wooden round timber or whole logs can fall through, making the path uneven and provoking the formation of puddles. In some cases, weeds begin to grow in the spaces between the pieces of wood, spoiling the impression of the engineering structure and reducing its passability.... To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to pay due attention to the preparation.

First, outline the outlines of the future path. Along the outline of the path on both sides, drive vertical pegs with a stretched rope into the ground to understand that this space has already been reserved. Further, the designated area must be deepened, cutting out a trench about 20-25 cm deep. Excavation work should be done in dry weather - so the edges will not move out.

After that, the bottom of the trench is covered with a small layer of sand, the task of which is to create a stable cushion for everything that will be located above. The sand is covered with geotextiles - it is a guarantee that weeds will no longer grow here.

So that the garden road in the country house is made correctly, and the improvised sidewalk does not disappoint, consider step by step instructions in the form of a master class on how to lay out country paths from round cuts.

The preparation of the foundation as a whole was described above, but there are several subtleties that should be mentioned separately. For example, special attention should be paid to waterproofing material - it is better not to rely on geotextiles alone and lay a layer of plastic wrap.

Experienced craftsmen point out that the material is good for its elasticity and tensile strength, but any gap in the layer is a serious design flaw. In view of this, it is necessary either to find a single piece of polyethylene of the required size, or at least glue the individual pieces. It will not be possible to do this from small fragments, if only for the reason that an overlap is required by at least 30 cm. As a gluing material, not ordinary glue is used, but electrical tape or double-sided tape.

For some craftsmen, for some reason, it is not obvious that the upper sand layer must be poured at the building level. Naturally, no one requires a perfectly flat sandy surface of the base, and with a general slope of the terrain, a difference in height is inevitable, but we must try to avoid such phenomena, at least where the site is approximately flat. Otherwise, it is possible that the base will begin to shift downward over time - this will lead to a gradual deformation of the track and its becoming unusable.

Oak and beech are ideal materials in terms of durability, but it should be understood that when purchasing such raw materials, a “cheap” path will require costs from 10-15 thousand rubles only for wood. The purchase of a coniferous tree will be much more budgetary, but the endurance of such a coating will no longer be so impressive - they are easier to deform. If you nevertheless decided to buy materials, then you can buy the cuts, already even treated with an antiseptic, in a large hardware store. There you can also inquire about the presence of a large round timber, if you are ready to cut it into cuts yourself - it will be cheaper this way.

Of course, it will be even cheaper if there are barely living old trees on the site, using them, you can kill two birds with one stone - both clear the territory and pave the path. When using improvised materials, in a sense, everything that is free is good, but if there is something to choose from, special attention, besides oak and beech, pay attention to larch.

The fundamental point is the categorical requirement for the dryness of the material with which we will work... If you use insufficiently dried wood for paving, this will be a clear mistake, nullifying all hopes for a long service life of the structure. Using cuts that are still wet can cause them to crack within literally a week!

If you cut the round timber yourself into cuts, do not be too lazy to process the raw materials normally so that the coating is comfortable for walking. First, remove all branches from the trunk and treat the surfaces with scrapers and plows. After that, make notes on the log with a pencil showing which lines you will need to cut into separate "pancakes".

Keep in mind that a large diameter of the resulting circles automatically means an increase in thickness, so you should not cut a lot of cuts from a thick log. Experienced experts point out that for a really long service life of the track, regardless of any load, it is worth using whole "hemp" with a thickness of at least 20 cm.

A good path is one that you can walk on even with bare feet, which means that the wood must be free of any burrs.

The surface of each saw cut must first be planed with a plane, and then sanded with a grinder. The bark is removed already at this stage - for the construction of the path, it is definitely not needed.

The above steps can be omitted if you decide not only to pave the road with wood, but to use full-fledged boards instead of cuts. Lumber for a path laid on flat terrain is selected of the same size and shape for a complete fit of the fragments to each other. On rough terrain, you should experiment with combinations of boards of different shapes.

In any case, after cutting cuts and boards you should discard those pieces that were damaged or simply do not fit in one way or another. Usually, when harvesting material, it is recommended to make a discount on this by buying or cutting 15% more wood than is actually needed for paving.

Antiseptic treatment involves full soaking in a solution, and dense oak or larch cuts can be covered with a roller, walking over the entire surface of each piece 4-5 times... As we remember, wet material is not suitable for construction, therefore, after impregnation, the tree is dried in a ventilated place for at least two days, ideally at least three days.

A good option for protection against negative factors is drying oil... It is better to process wood with it in a boiling form - then it tightly clogs all the pores and greatly reduces the ability of the material to absorb moisture. Pests will not be delighted with such treatment, which will have to exclude your path from the list of potential habitats.

It remains to create problems for the possible spread of the fungus - to do this, use a store-bought product that must be sprayed onto the surface through a spray bottle. The lower part of each saw cut can be additionally impregnated with hot bitumen.

Many owners want the tree to look nobler, darker, and seem older. For this purpose, it can be tinted a little with copper sulfate.

You can lay individual fragments in any convenient way, trying to create a specific pattern or not bother with it. After laying, each piece of wood must be compacted, ideally the surface should be flat in accordance with the level readings. The gaps between the cuts are covered with crushed stone, which is decorated with moss or sawdust on top for decorative purposes.

For the correctness of the process, you should adhere to the instructions aimed at extending the life of the road:

• the first to fit are the cuts of large diameter, the small ones "patch" the remaining space;
• if you want to hide cracks, it is best to do it with pear branches;
• curbs or decorative borders of a stone path are not only beauty, but also a guarantee that sand and waterproofing will not be washed out from under the tree, polluting the site and weakening the path;
• it is impossible to find fault with the performance of the track if the distance between the fragments is kept in the interval from one to one and a half centimeters.

The fact that immediately before laying all the pieces of wood were treated with the necessary impregnations does not at all negate the subsequent maintenance of the road. On the contrary, wood is a material that needs constant attention in outdoor conditions.

Despite the presence of a plastic layer in the lining, some weeds, such as torus and sow thistle, can still be a problem, even if they grow a little to the side. To combat them, it is better to use preventive methods in the form of a spray on these plants.

Separately, it must be remembered that no varnishes and putties will protect the tree from moisture if there is too much of it. In view of this, it is worth digging ditches on the sides of the path to drain the melt water. In winter, it is advisable to clear the snow from the wooden path as soon as possible.

The first photo shows an impeccable track made of saw cuts, made strictly according to the instructions.... As you can see, there are practically no gaps between individual pieces of wood, and they are mostly filled with smaller cuts. The horizontal level is maintained in accordance with all requirements and allows even wheeled vehicles to pass.

The second example is a more economical version of the road, where exactly one saw cut is allocated for each step. Such a solution is permissible if all the cuts have a fairly large diameter, but walking along the path is not always convenient - it is necessary to strictly measure the size of the steps with the distance between the rounds.

The third solution is an attempt to imitate the natural environment, which worked well enough. From an aesthetic point of view, the abundant pebble-filled spaces look very natural. On the other hand, there are no perfectly straight paths in nature, and on this one it is also very important to look at your step.

For more information about paths made from wood cuts, see the video below.