Features and technology of planting cherries in spring

Content
  1. Advantages and disadvantages
  2. Timing
  3. Preparation
  4. Step-by-step instruction
  5. Follow-up care
  6. Helpful hints

Practice shows that many gardeners plant cherries in the spring, and not in the fall. This solution has a number of obvious advantages, minimizing the likelihood of the death of a young plant. It is not difficult to achieve the desired result: it is enough to know the features and technology of this procedure, which will be described below.

Advantages and disadvantages

Experts note that the advantages of spring planting of sweet cherries are much greater than shortcomings. Let's list the main advantages of the considered procedure.

  • Intensive plant development during the warm season. The abundance of sun and warm air helps to strengthen the young tree, which is especially important for its root system. It is much easier for such a plant to survive the winter and survive in the open field until next spring.
  • Possibility of preliminary preparation of the landing pit. Having solved this problem in the fall, you can get a well-settled depression for a young tree. This allows the cherry root collar to be positioned at the correct distance from the soil surface.
  • Convenience of monitoring the development of the plant. In a situation requiring intervention, the gardener can react immediately (for example, rid the tree of pests and / or pathogenic microflora).

As for the disadvantages of spring planting of sweet cherries, the main one is taking into account its active vegetation. A growing tree needs a lot of strength for the development of the crown and full rooting, which requires additional attention from the owner of the site. This can be a problem for gardeners who do not have enough free time.

Timing

Before starting to plant cherries, the owner of the site should decide on the time that is most suitable for her. First of all, the choice of the optimal period depends on the region - the milder the climate, the earlier you can start the planned work.

  • Siberia and the Urals. They are characterized by long winters and late spring. This feature requires planting a tree in mid-May, when the risk of the last frost finally disappears. The exact time depends on the season and the coordinates of the area.
  • Leningrad region. The temperature regime of the northwestern part of the Russian Federation makes it possible to plant cherries throughout the month - from the end of April to the end of May.
  • The middle lane (including the Moscow region). The temperate climate of the region is noticeably milder than the Siberian and Ural regions, which makes it possible to plant cherries earlier. Auspicious days are from mid-April to early May.
  • Volga region. In this region, cherries are best planted at the junction of March and April. Allowable deviation is 1-2 weeks depending on the season.
  • Southern regions. Warm air masses come here very early, which makes it possible to plant cherries already in March. At the same time, one should not rush too much - in the southern regions, the buds open quickly, which makes them vulnerable to insidious night frosts.

The period that roughly coincides with central Russia is most suitable for Belarusian gardeners.

Preparation

There are several conditions, the consideration of which precedes the planting of cherries in open ground. Each of them has its own specifics, and therefore requires separate consideration.

A place

One of the main criteria that determine the development of a young tree is its correct location.It is important to understand that sweet cherry grows intensively and bears fruit only in well-lit areas. Shading should be minimal - no more than 2 hours a day (ignoring this condition leads to a decrease in the number of ovaries and the size of the fruit).

In addition, you must:

  • maintain a distance of 3 m from buildings and other trees;
  • choose the most elevated place on the landing site;
  • avoid places suffering from drafts;
  • place cherries at a distance from water bodies (at least 5 m).

If the landlord is planting a tree near the house, he should choose the south or west side of the building. And you also need to take into account the plants located next to the cherry: it gets along best with cherries, raspberries and representatives of its own species. Crops with pronounced branching of the root system can have a negative impact on it.

Priming

Experience shows that cherries are very demanding on the soil in the garden. First of all, the latter must have the following properties:

  • fertility (high humus content in the upper layer);
  • neutral reaction (pH around 7);
  • lightness and good permeability;
  • balance (with an excess of sand, clay is added to the soil, and vice versa);
  • significant depth of groundwater (at least 1.5 m).

In a situation where underground moisture is close to the surface, there is a risk of decay of the root system of the tree. There are two solutions to the described problem - the creation of an artificial hill with a height of about 1 m and a diameter of 2-2.5 m, or the arrangement of drainage ditches.

Seedling

In order for the sweet cherry to take root easily and develop quickly, the owner of the site should pay attention to the variety of the seedling being purchased. It is desirable that it be zoned - the most suitable for growing in the region of interest to the gardener. It is better to purchase a plant just before planting (having bought a seedling in advance, you will have to keep it cool and monitor the constant moisture of the roots).

Other criteria that a young tree must meet:

  • the optimal age is up to 2 years (older seedlings take root much worse);
  • healthy root system, no visible damage;
  • strong-looking, well-developed aerial part of the plant;
  • absence of damage to the bark of the seedling (mechanical, as well as caused by diseases and / or pests);
  • pronounced central conductor;
  • absence of painful and / or deformed areas at the vaccination site;
  • height - about 100-120 cm.

For seedlings with a closed root system (in containers), all the above requirements are relevant. There are two additions - an abundance of roots in an earthen coma and the presence of green, completely healthy leaves.

Pit

The best option is a deepening prepared in the fall. A valid alternative is a hole dug 15-20 days before the planned cherry planting. The solution to the problem under consideration provides for several simple points:

  • thorough cleaning of the selected place from debris and weeds, followed by its digging;
  • creating a pit of sufficient size (about 90 cm in diameter and 80 cm in depth);
  • separation of the outer layer of soil (later it will be useful for planting a plant);
  • arrangement of a drainage layer of crushed stone, expanded clay or brick battle (recommended thickness - 15 cm).

Special attention should be paid to fertilizers, which must be applied 1 decade before planting. Recommended mix composition:

  • 2 buckets of fertile soil, separated by digging a hole;
  • 1 bucket of peat;
  • 1 bucket of rotted manure;
  • potassium sulfate and superphosphate (15 g and 30 g per bucket of mixture, respectively).

Before pouring the prepared composition, it should be thoroughly mixed. In this case, it is worth abandoning the use of nitrogen fertilizers - they can burn the roots of a young tree.

Step-by-step instruction

The day before planting, the plant must be placed in water so that its roots absorb as much moisture as possible. The order of further actions of the gardener looks like this:

  • create a recess in the hole, the size of which is sufficient for free placement of the roots of the seedling;
  • pour 10-12 liters of clean and warm water into the formed hole;
  • remove damaged areas of the plant (if any) and treat the cut sites with potassium permanganate;
  • position the cherry roots in the central part of the pit (the neck should protrude about 4 cm above the ground level);
  • place the trunk in close proximity to the support;
  • gradually cover the root system with soil, shaking the seedling several times (to avoid the formation of voids);
  • thoroughly compact the surface layer of soil;
  • neatly tie the conductor to the support so as not to transmit it (also, if necessary, the position is adjusted);
  • pour a small shaft along the entire length of the trunk circle;
  • pour 20-25 liters of water into the formed recess (more, depending on the saturation of the soil with moisture).

The final stage is mulching the surface with foliage or peat, which slows down the evaporation of water. If there is no suitable material, the trunk circle should be thoroughly loosened.

Follow-up care

Throughout the year after planting, cherries require special attention. As practice shows, during this period, a young tree is subject to maximum risks, ignoring which can lead to its death. To care for it correctly, you must take into account all the points of the presented manual.

  • Regular and sufficient watering. During the first month after landing, the procedure is performed every 10 days. Further, cherries can be watered three times less. As with planting, the water should be clean and warm.
  • Treatment of the trunk circle. The most rational solution is to use mulch, which eliminates labor-intensive loosening.
  • Mandatory trimming. In order to accelerate the growth of shoots, and to obtain a crown of the correct shape, all cherry stems must be shortened by 15 cm.With the onset of autumn, areas that did not have time to lignify are also cut off (they are not able to survive the winter, and therefore there is no point in leaving them).
  • Preventive spraying. It involves the use of a solution of copper sulfate, with which not only a young tree is processed, but also a near-trunk circle. The procedure is performed after planting and avoids the appearance of pests and the development of pathogenic microflora. Spraying is repeated in late autumn.
  • Arrangement of protection against frost. The first winter is the most dangerous for cherries, and therefore it is worth paying increased attention to protecting the plant from the cold. Lignified areas should be wrapped in burlap or jute (alternatively, agrofibre can be used). In addition, it is advisable to overlay the lower part of the trunk with spruce branches - for additional insulation and protection from rodents.
  • Whitewashing the trunk. It is carried out with the onset of spring, after the soil has completely thawed. It is the best way to prevent sunburn.

As for feeding, it is not carried out within 3 years from the moment of planting the sweet cherry. Many novice gardeners ignore this rule, which leads to negative consequences for the young tree. And also some site owners seek to feed the plant with fresh, and not rotted, manure. The result is a burn of the cherry roots, complemented by a constant lack of moisture.

In subsequent years, caring for the tree becomes much easier. Formative pruning, carried out according to a certain scheme, deserves special mention.

  • 2 years. With the onset of autumn, no more than 4 strong skeletal shoots are left, and their length is reduced by a third. The main conductor is shortened at an elevation of 1 m from the lower tier. The described solution allows you to form the 2nd level of branches, which is necessary for the further development of the tree.
  • 3 years. All branches of the 2nd tier are subject to removal, with the exception of the 2-3 strongest ones. The conductor trimming is performed in the same way as in the previous year.
  • 4 years old. The formation of the 3rd level is carried out - the last one for the sweet cherry. In this case, it is enough to leave 1-2 strong shoots, cutting off all other branches of the tier.

Watering a maturing tree is carried out at least three times per season. In the spring, on the eve of flowering, its volume is determined by the age of the plant - about 20 liters per year. In addition, if the air temperature is especially high, additional moistening of the crown and trunk circle is necessary.

Helpful hints

Finally, it remains to list a few tips, taking into account which will help to grow healthy cherries with excellent yields.

  • Before planting the selected tree, you should pay special attention to the location of its root collar. Its significant deepening can delay fruiting, and overestimation of the level often leads to drying of the roots.
  • In order for a young sweet cherry to survive the winter, it is simply necessary to insulate it. If the owner of the site has purchased a seedling of a non-zoned variety, he takes on all the risks associated with cold weather.
  • The situation when cherry leaves dry and fall off prematurely may indicate an acute moisture deficit. This is especially true at the height of summer, provided there is a prolonged absence of natural precipitation. If the leaves do not have damage inherent in the activity of pests and pathogenic microflora, the gardener needs to increase the watering of the plant.
  • Cracks in the bark of a tree can be caused by sunburn. Timely whitewashing of the trunk, performed in early spring with the onset of the first heat, helps to avoid this misfortune. As for the treatment, it involves careful clearing of cracks to healthy tissue, followed by their treatment with potassium permanganate and garden pitch.
  • In order to accelerate the development of lateral shoots, it is imperative to cut off the top of the cherry - and immediately after planting. Otherwise, the young tree will spend energy unevenly, giving preference to vertical growth.
  • Watering the planted plant with cold water is strongly discouraged. Ignoring this condition can lead to loss of foliage and the development of root rot. The optimum watering temperature is 15 to 25 ° C.
  • If the gardener does not have sufficient experience in the preparation of organic fertilizers, it is better for him to purchase ready-made formulations. Using inappropriate top dressing can damage the roots of the young tree and other problems.

Following the tips listed above, any cherry owner can achieve the desired result, regardless of his experience.

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