Amorphophallus: characteristics and features of growing

Amorphophallus is considered one of the most unusual and interesting plants in the world. In its natural environment, it is called a cadaverous flower, but it has varieties that can be grown at home. How they differ, and how to properly grow amorphophallus at home, will tell the material of this article.

The plant is rather difficult to call indoor, since it is not easy to grow it in the house due to the terrible smell of decaying flesh. This is not at all a special kind of lily, but a hybrid form of a flower belonging to the numerous aroid family, known for its variety of subspecies. Amorphophallus has a strange name due to the shape of the flower ear, although the name means "shapeless offspring" in translation. Unlike other plants, it does not always have a dormant period.

Another name for the flower is known - "snake tree". This is due to the similarity of the trunk to snakeskin. The flower, in fact, is not a flower at all, but a single petal of a complex shape, which, like the trunk, is covered with specks. It surrounds an arrow-shaped ear, the shape of which differs depending on the type of plant.

A flower tuber growing in the ground weighs about 5 kg. Amorphophallus has a large and powerful stem, reminiscent of the trunk of a palm tree, which grows from a tuber. Another distinctive feature of the plant is a single half-meter leaf plate. Its color is green-brown with whitish dots. A hollow petiole is located in the center.

Flowering begins before the leaf appears and lasts no more than a half moon. It ends before the formation of new roots and leaves begins. It is noteworthy that during the flowering period, the tuber decreases in size, giving off the necessary nutrients.

The formation of seeds, which appear extremely rarely, is also unusual. If the flower is pollinated, the mother plant dies. However, this is not associated with a cadaverous smell, because it was conceived by nature not to scare away, but to attract pollinating insects. The stench lasts no more than two days, but pollination may not occur, and therefore the main method of reproduction is tuberous.

Many varieties of amorphophallus are known. Some of them are evergreen, reaching a height of 5 m, others, like most plants, may have a dormant period. Sometimes the plant looks more like a palm tree, other varieties vaguely resemble a calla, although this comparison is arbitrary. Let's note the main types of amorphophallus.

• Titanic the species is considered the largest and tallest, which can be judged by the size of the tuber, sometimes weighing about 20 kg. The ear of such a flower is about 2 m in height, it is surrounded by a fleshy burgundy inflorescence. This is one of the most popular species among flower growers, but it will not work to grow it at home due to its size.

• Amorphophallus cognac or pion-leaved differs from the titanic species in smaller dimensions and flattened tubers, not exceeding 20 cm in diameter. Its peduncle is lower (not more than 60 cm), the ear is usually not more than half a meter, and the inflorescence is purple-burgundy. Among Asians, this plant is not considered decorative, but rather food for animals and people.

• Bulbiferous (bulbous) amorphophallus looks more like a houseplant as it is even smaller. The size of an adult plant is no more than half a meter. In addition, this species has a pleasant pale pink color and a small inflorescence not exceeding 30 cm in height. The ear is pointed at the top and is also painted in a pale pink color.

• Rivera slightly larger than cognac: its tubers are 25 cm larger, the leaves are also larger, the height of the peduncle can reach 1 m. This variety is good because, grown at home, it blooms more often than others, but almost never bears fruit.

The flower is propagated by tuber, children and pollination. The last method is bad in that it is not so easy to make it, because female and male flowers do not bloom at the same time. That is why the plant lures insects, trapping them with pollen until the male flowers open. If, nevertheless, it is possible to pollinate the flower, the seeds will form with the simultaneous dying off of the mother plant. Insects fly to the flower, attracted by the scent, although they do not lay larvae on it.

As for reproduction by children, the amorphophallus grows over them after it fades and forms. Their size usually does not exceed 2 cm, although it may vary depending on the specific species. Despite the fact that there are always many children at the flower, you can also divide the tuber. This method is considered to be effective in breeding the snake tree.

If the method of dividing the tuber is chosen, reproduction is started only when the plant wakes up and throws out several shoots. It is divided, after which the places of the cuts are necessarily treated with crushed charcoal. Then they wait until the cut sites dry up, which usually takes about a day. After that, they begin to plant.

It is ineffective to propagate amorphophallus by seeds:

• this practice rarely gives good results;
• to get a full-fledged plant, if successful, you will have to wait about 7 years.

To grow amorphophallus on your own at home, you need to know the basic conditions for its comfortable growth and development. For example, a container for it needs deep and large, but always with straight sides. This is necessary to ensure good drainage and avoid stagnation of water in the ground. If you provide the plant with the right conditions for growth and development, you will notice its rapid growth.

The soil for amorphophallus must be fertile, but loose, in order to exclude stagnant water. The substrate is prepared from garden soil and sand in proportions of 4: 1. In order not to doubt the quality and correctness of the soil, you can purchase it in a specialized store, asking the seller for products for indoor flowers belonging to the aroid family.

Varieties that need rest are harvested for the winter. This is started when the leaves die off, rearranging the plant in a cool and dark place. At the same time, make sure that the soil in the container does not dry out. The plant is transplanted in early March, when it wakes up and informs about this by the appearance of the first shoots. The transplant is performed in a new, large container with fresh soil.

The plant is also planted in early spring, but the soil is changed every year, because it is very quickly depleted. Soil density can vary depending on the type of home amorphophallus. For example, if it grows in a seasonally variable climate, a small amount of clay may be included in the substrate. If the ground is too dense, a lack of oxygen may develop, which will cause rotting of the root system.

Dolomite flour can be added to the soil, which will contribute to its enrichment with minerals. Vermiculite and sphagnum moss will improve the texture.As for the features of planting, the bulb must be buried. Growth will slow down the moment the flower appears. Children can be planted in small containers, although the depth is important for them, because if it is insufficient, deformation or rotting of the tuber will begin.

If you plant a flower in a narrow container, it will prevent the formation of a horizontal root system. Ideally, the container should be twice the size of the bulb. To make high-quality drainage, you need to put expanded clay or pieces of steamed bark on the bottom.

For planting amorphophalus, see the next video.

It cannot be said unequivocally that amorphophallus is unpretentious in care, because it reacts to climate changes and the degree of illumination, like other plants.

Like any tropical plant, amorphophallus cannot live without the sun. However, it is able to tolerate even direct rays. In winter, it experiences a solar deficit, which has to be replenished with auxiliary lighting using phytolamps.

For active growth and development, it is necessary to provide the flower with a temperature of +22 to +25 degrees Celsius. However, there is an opinion that the plant is capable of adjusting to room temperature and does not need to be artificially corrected. Still, it shouldn't get too hot in the summer. If the selected species needs rest, it is necessary to create cooler conditions for it. The temperature during this period should not exceed +10.13 degrees Celsius.

The plant does not like dryness, and therefore the humidity should be high. If the room where the flower stands is too dry, you need to buy a humidifier or constantly spray the leaves.

The plant loves moisture very much, but it is necessary to water the amorphophallus correctly. Watering should be abundant and regular, but at the same time excluding stagnation of water in the container. Well thought out drainage is required, constant watering, which begins when the first shoots appear. You do not need to water the plant itself, but the soil around the edges of the pot. Moreover, watering should be uniform and exclude stagnation of water above the bulb itself, since it will rot from this.

A pallet is required, into which excess water will drain. After about half an hour from the moment of watering, excess water is drained from the pan. Reduce watering in those plants that fall into a dormant state. They begin to dose it in the fall, reducing the volume of water when the plant begins to dry out.

The soil for amorphophallus needs nutritious, for this it will have to be flavored with top dressing. During active growth, the frequency of fertilization should be 2 times a month. To do this, you need to alternate mineral and organic fertilizing. It is important to saturate the plant with phosphorus, which is necessary for the rapid growth of the tuber.

In addition to phosphorus, the fertilizer must contain nitrogen and potassium. When the tuber grows up, it will need humus. Fertilizers need to be applied to moist soil, and therefore it is pre-watered with water at room temperature.

Blooming amorphophallus is an unforgettable sight. Once the flower has faded, it must be pruned to allow the plant to provide a short rest period and gain strength to continue growing.

The plant can suffer from attacks by small insects such as spider mites and aphids. You have to get rid of parasites using chemicals. As a rule, in this case, insects settle on young leaves and shoots. In this case, it is important not to allow the neighborhood with other colors.

Spider mites attack the plant when the room is too dry.A whitish cobweb appears, the pests themselves are visible from the bottom of the leaves. You can get rid of them with soapy water and an insecticide. You can use the preparation "Fitoverm" by spraying the plant with it after dilution according to the instructions on the package.

Midges appear on the leaves due to excessive watering. In this case, treatment with "Fitoverm" is also suitable, but not the plant, but the soil will have to be sprayed. Leaves and crown rot due to waterlogging. If in amorphophallus the tuber suffers from rot, you will have to remove the plant from the ground and mercilessly cut off all the affected parts in order to preserve what is left. After processing, the cuts are sprinkled with crushed charcoal and dried.

Usually, the plant is sick precisely because of improper care. For example:

• drying out tips of the leaves indicate a lack of moisture, which can be eliminated by placing the pot in a pan with water;
• specks of brownish color indicate a lack of trace elements, and therefore you need to feed the flower;
• weakness and wilting may be the result of poor lighting, which is solved by changing the place, taking into account the degree of its illumination;
• the lack of light is also indicated by the blanching of the foliage;
• in case of waterlogging, it is necessary to urgently remove the flower from the soil, dry it and replant it to a new place;
• if the plant does not recover after transplanting, the reason may lie in the lack of disinfection of the pot;
• specimens with injuries, warty formations and diseased tissues cannot be planted;
• if extensive lesions are found, the diseased plant is thrown away, the lack of proper attention to processing can lead to re-infection and repopulation of the container by a new family of soil insects and other microorganisms.

Healthy leaves live no more than six months, appearing after flowering and turning yellow in mid-October. Each leaf grows higher than the previous one, becoming more dissected. For the plant to feel comfortable, the pot must be placed by the south-facing window. Additional feeding will help to avoid excessive depletion of the bulb.

Sometimes tubers are stored in winter without a substrate. The bulbs are removed from the soil when the leaves are dry, giving all the juices to the tuber. This is also a good time for separating daughter bulbs and removing rotten areas. If there is no crushed charcoal, during processing it can be replaced with a solution of potassium permanganate. After that, the tuber is placed in a prepared box made of wood or cardboard and stored in a dark and cool place. It is planted in the spring according to the standard scheme.